flirty1

removing seat

i was cleaning out a carb that had rotten* fuel in it. the inside of the bowl was discolored and the carb had some rust color gunk on the inside and it stunk. well i cleaned it but i pushed the seat in to far cause it looked like it was seating to much cutting of fuel so now it overflows.how do i remove it. its a Briggs and stratton magnetron engine model 110702 type 0212-01 code 88012608
on a Montgomery wards lawnmower lot/model number TMO-37078A MFG date F158C. whats the part number for a rebuild kit and any extra parts not included.or is it best to buy a new carb

puey61

Without seeing the carb in person, no one can tell you if you should replace the entire carburetor assembly. I can't tell you the kit part number without some more information first. On the carb body you'll see an "LMT" number, what is this number?

flirty1

walbro LMS-295 i think 1 im not sure might just be a scrach

puey61

Sorry, I meant LMS. Do you purchase your parts locally or online? If locally, I recommend taking the carb with you to your local shop and comparing parts in the following two kit with what you have: 494349 or 498260. I can't find such a carb type number that you have, my Briggs lookup only lists the following: LMS 1,2,3,4,5,7,10,11,12,13,14,15 and m26.

flirty1

a new carb is $46 so might just play it safe. there was stuff on the float i could scrap off with my finger nail

flirty1

reviving this sense spring is coming. how do you remove a seat. most 4 cycle carbs either have a rubber or metal seat. do i use a dentist pic to remove it or do i need another tool. what about the jets and stuff needle nose pliers only go so far. don't want to have a post a thread for each lawnmower i get. can i just dip the whole carb into a can of carb cleaner.

indypower

A dentist pick works. So does blowing compressed air thru the gas inlet. You just have to make sure that you contain the seat if you want to use it again. Otherwise, it will get blown somewhere in a corner on the floor.
I would disassemble the carb as much as I could, soak it in a carb cleaning dipping solution, buy carb kit#398158.
I would also make sur that the float does float. Clean it off with spary carb cleaner then set it in a bowl of water and see if it floats somewaht level. (the needle end is heavier, so that end will sink lower). float # 398187.
Kit & float will run you $15-$20.

flirty1

so i don't have to remove the jets unless they have rubber o-rings. just use compressed air to blow the seat out by wrapping the carb in a rag to contain the seat. dip it in carb cleaner then spray it with spray carb cleaner then blow it out with compressed air.this is the same for all carbs correct.

flirty1

whats the brand carb cleaner you use i found napa CRC carb and cold parts cleaner CRC14101. anyone use that.to use it just remove all needles seat and jets and rubber if present. leave the choke and throttle plates intact and dip the carb into about a cup of it for 20-30 minutes right then rinse with can spray carb cleaner and blow dry with compressed air correct. now i have to use a carb kit right they run what 10-15 dollars. also what do you do with the used cleaner do i recycle it. sorry for the questions.

indypower

Spray cleaners are good for cleaning the grime off the outside of the carb. (CRC seems to be the best).For cleaning inside the carb, I use a carb soaking cleaner. The best I can find here is GUNK. Comes in a 1 gal. pail (like a paint can), with a dipping basket. This can be used many times. Costs about $30.

flirty1

found it at a loco hardware store for 26.99 but it takes 1-7 days for it to leave the warehouse and another couple days for it arrive at my local ace hardware. so it could be too weeks before i get it. i will just stick to replacing carbs. its easyer and less hassle.