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Deere TRS21 W/Tecumseh 5HP carb


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12-29-07, 10:38 PM   #1  
Deere TRS21 W/Tecumseh 5HP carb

Imagine that, from the much searching I have done this is pretty common.

HI I am Don thanks for looking at my problem.

The snow blower wouldnt start so I tested and figured out it was the carb. Took it apart today cleaned everything out, replaced the gas and hoses. Well after priming it there is fuel just trickling out of a little hole above the float bowl. Only thing I am NOT sure of being right is the little clip that holds the needle to the float. HOW important is that facing the right way? Could it really be causing the leak I see? Is this a little "over flow" hole or something???

 
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12-30-07, 06:46 AM   #2  
OK went out this morning and took the carb back off. The clip was facing the right way. Oiled up the bowl gasket and reinstalled. FIRED RIGHT UP! Then when I shut it down there was fuel leaking. Looks like its coming from the mounting gasket (3pc) or the bowl gasket. I guess I will be going tomorrow to look for a rebuild kit or at least some gasket material. Any suggestions?

 
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12-30-07, 07:02 AM   #3  
If you get a rebuild kit, It'll come with the bowl gasket & the needle & seat that sounds like the cause of your fuel leak. Check the float for fuel sloshing inside & make sure to adjust the level parallel with the carb upside down. The hole is the breather for the bowl. Roger

 
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12-30-07, 10:27 PM   #4  
Thank you very much for taking your time to answer me. When I had it out today I did and there was no sloshing. I will get what parts I can locally like a new float too just for good measure. Then I will check that the float is right. I also did not check if the needle seat was actually put in right. I had the idea in my head that the "grove" went away from the needle but I am not sure that I put it in there right.

Thanks again.

Don

 
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12-31-07, 05:49 AM   #5  
The outside of that rubber needle seat is tapered. just install it in the bore (if looking at the carb upside down) taper facing down. It'll probably work either way but the tapered part is supposed to be in the "top" of the bore.

 
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12-31-07, 03:46 PM   #6  
Awww
I got the nice new kit installed everything, went to put the bowl nut back on and... do I have to say? Anyone got a part # or good place to find one! SOB! Everything I try to fix lately ENDS UP A FREAKIN MESSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
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12-31-07, 06:43 PM   #7  
If you broke you're bowl jet, try to get the broken part out. Clean the old one really well including the small hole in the unthreaded part. transfer all the screw, spring, O ring from the broken new one to the old bowl bolt. If the passages in it are clean, You'll be on the road again. Be gentle with the torque 'tho. Good Luck & Happy New Year, Roger

 
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12-31-07, 07:27 PM   #8  
Thanks Roger. I broke the bowl nut. Damn thing. There is no spring or anything on it just a bolt with holes in it. I am going to get a new one (If they have it locally).

How tight does this brass bolt have to be? Do the holes in the bolt have to line up with the ones in the carb? It doesnt seem like it cause they were off by about 1/4 turn and when I tried to line them up the bolt broke.


Lucky it be at the hole point so I could put a fat head in there and twist the broken piece out. LOL

 
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12-31-07, 07:58 PM   #9  
O.K. Sorry, You must have a fixed jet carb. The bolt does'nt need to be very tight, just snug enough to keep the fuel from leaking from the gasket @ the bolt, & no, the holes don't need to line up with anything. I'm just glad you where able to get the broken part out http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf is a great manual for info on you're engine. Check it out & Happy New Year, Roger

 
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01-01-08, 08:32 PM   #10  
LOL, looked to me like they needed to line up!! Oh well.

I have an HSK850 Is that still the right manual for it? I see HSK30-70.

I really appreciate your help and I am going to see tomorrow if they have the bolt locally and I will report back after work.


Don

 
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01-02-08, 11:53 AM   #11  
Disregard the link to the manual that hopkinsr2 gave you, that is for a 4-stroke cycle engine, not a 2-stroke, Snow King engine that you have. Post back with your exact model and spec number off your engine if you would please. Hopkinsr2, do you have the link to the above noted 2-stroke engine to give to redline? Tecumseh has no torque spec for the bowl nut/main jet but I recommend 30-40 INCH pounds. For clarification, the inlet seat must be installed with the ring in the bore and therefore, away from the needle tip. If you install it otherwise you will have a fuel leak because it is tapered. Also, the position of the needle clip is not critical.

 
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01-02-08, 12:43 PM   #12  
The number for the 2-cycle manual is 692508, the link is below. Have a good one. Geo

http://www.cpdonline.com/692508.pdf

 
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01-03-08, 06:20 AM   #13  
Puey: Its an HSK850 8304B Actually Thanks.

Geo: Thanks I didnt get a sec to look at it yet but I will

I went to the "local" (not local to my house about 15 miles but local to work) shop and they actually had it in STOCK!! LOL it is the oldest bag I have seen in a long time!! Oh well. Did not get time last night to get at the install. Its also 14 degrees F here in NY but I am going to do it today.

 
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01-03-08, 03:39 PM   #14  
Working in the cold is never a fun task. Here in WI it has been between -3 and +10 and that alone has deterred me from working on my equipment in the garage. Best of luck on your carb work!

 
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01-04-08, 08:15 AM   #15  
IT WROKS!!! No leaks. Thank you all who have helped me. I got it together last night and took it out to my sidewalk to "test" it. Did a great job, left it cool in the garage until my dad got there to bring it home and there wasnt a drop of fuel left behind. He filled it with the new gas and he was off ready for the next snow!!!


I will be lingering here a little and if this little experiance can help others I will contribute.

THANKS AGAIN!!

 
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01-04-08, 05:31 PM   #16  
Glad you got it going. Sorry about my previous posts. So many of these machines I've seen lately are 4 stroke, & I should have known enough to ask You know what they say when you assume Something!!! Roger

 
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01-04-08, 08:16 PM   #17  
Posted By: hopkinsr2 Glad you got it going. Sorry about my previous posts. So many of these machines I've seen lately are 4 stroke, & I should have known enough to ask You know what they say when you assume Something!!! Roger
None of that matters I consider you one of the major helps for me!! Thanks.
Don

 
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01-04-08, 09:02 PM   #18  
Posted By: Legal v8 Working in the cold is never a fun task.
Sure ain't, and frozen hands don't feel the gasoline eating through your skin until they thaw. I don't know what they put in gas lately but chafes skin like a SOB. Now I see why techs at the shop often wear surgical gloves. Bought a box myself, the solvent resistant variety.

 
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01-05-08, 08:25 AM   #19  
Posted By: KarlK Sure ain't, and frozen hands don't feel the gasoline eating through your skin until they thaw. I don't know what they put in gas lately but chafes skin like a SOB. Now I see why techs at the shop often wear surgical gloves. Bought a box myself, the solvent resistant variety.
I think the majority of fuels in the US are blended with ethanol which dries stuff out faster than you can blink, though gasoline does a fair job of it as well.

 
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01-06-08, 02:02 PM   #20  
If you want to get rid of the smell of gas on your hands, get some 'midnight palmagranite' lotion from Bed, Bath and Beyond. Works good only my old lady wanted to know who's house I was at all day. Ha! Also, for future referance, the TRS21 Deere was made by Murray. Went to the Deere dealer last week for parts and they were all in Briggs boxes with Murray part numbers on them. Good Luck up there in the North Woods. It is bad enough down here on the Ill/Wis state line.

 
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01-07-08, 03:23 PM   #21  
I was wondering if they were made by someone else. Thanks

 
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01-09-08, 01:22 PM   #22  
Any one recognize this brand snowblower? No idea of year or anything but I am looking into picking it up for cheap. Guess what? It doesnt run unless you put gas in the carb!! Yippie.


 
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01-10-08, 02:17 AM   #23  
I don't know what the name brand is but the machine is manufactured by Murray, Inc. (now a Briggs & Stratton company) and the engine will be a Tecumseh. I'll guess it's a mid- to late-nineties machine.

 
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01-10-08, 10:32 AM   #24  
Good enough for me. I'm looking forward to redoing this. With the help and knowledge I have gained from here already it should be CAKE! Thanks puey.

 
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01-10-08, 04:03 PM   #25  
dcjredline;
Just remember the old saying about Confidence;
"Confidence is what you have before you fully understand the problem."
Have a good one. Geo

 
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01-11-08, 11:18 AM   #26  
LOL! True very true, I have been bitten by this a few times. I sure hope it is easy. If I can buy/fix it for under $50 and use it for the rest of the year then sell it next fall that would be good enough for me.

 
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01-11-08, 04:17 PM   #27  
Posted By: Legal v8 I think the majority of fuels in the US are blended with ethanol which dries stuff out faster than you can blink, though gasoline does a fair job of it as well.
Gotta be the ethanol, I used to wash oil paint off my hands with gasoline with no ill effects, wouldn't do that now.

 
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01-12-08, 06:44 AM   #28  
Posted By: KarlK Gotta be the ethanol, I used to wash oil paint off my hands with gasoline with no ill effects, wouldn't do that now.
Be it as it may, Alcohol is a lot safer on skin than gasoline is. After all, we can drink ethanol but we can't drink gasoline. However Ethanol does like a meal once in awhile, and rubber is a great snack. All kidding aside - Most places that carry ethanol blended gasoline should have premium 91 or 92 octane gasoline that contains no ethanol. However, at todays prices you will probably pay 20-30 cents more per gallon for it. I use ethanol blended 87 octane in my small engines and have suffered no ill-effects from it. Once the carb is cleaned out and new o-rings and gaskets installed I use the proper amount of Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in the gasoline when I buy it and It seems to work fine for me up here in Wisconsin. I do suggest buying fuel from a station that sells a lot of fuel. This ensures there isn't any water in it or that its old.

 
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01-12-08, 08:26 PM   #29  
Well puey was right. The guy says Murray but the model# and serial# doesnt come up anywhere. Any help here would be appreciated.

model 2030000 Ser# S001315339816

Don

 
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01-16-08, 07:55 AM   #30  
I WON. Auction ended at $28.77 I am going to get it Sunday. I also found another MTD 2 stage 5/21 that is on the way, guy wants $50/OBO for it. All that one needs is wiring for switch hooked back up and the fuel line to the tank replaced.

Gas should cost around $25 and about a 3.5 hour 125 mile trip. I'm sure I will be askin for some help when I get the #'s off the machines.

 
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01-20-08, 07:14 PM   #31  
OK I got them both today, the little Murray does run with a shot of ether. The 5/21 MTD does not. There are multiple things prolly wrong with it but one thing I dont know what its called is the thing where the wires from the key go to.In this picture where the arrow is. Can someone tell me (HS50) what thats called so I can get another one.


 
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01-21-08, 03:44 PM   #32  
The arrow is pointing to where the throttle control should mount. When you slide the throttle all the way down, It grounds out killing the engine. There is a key on the carb heater box, which I don't see in the pic, that just slides in to create a buffer from ground. To kill the engine using the key, just pull the key out. The throttle control is in expensive.

 
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01-21-08, 09:53 PM   #33  
I will look into the throttle control. Do you see the yellow wire hanging there? That is supposed to hook to a black wire coming from somewhere else and then plug (With a male spade) into that "thing" I have the arrow pointing at. I will do some more research and try to figure it out.

PS: The yellow wire comes from the key switch on the control panel along with the throttle control cable.

 
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02-04-08, 11:01 AM   #34  
The little Murray I bought for $30 and put MAYBE 2 hours into cleaning, well I used it this weekend on the heavy snow and it KICKED A$$!! Threw the snow 10ft. My driveway is prolly 22ft wide and it would almost throw it across there. VERY NICE!!!

Thanks for all the help and guidance I have gotten here!!

BTW: I sprayed the chute area LIBERALLY with silicone spray dont know if that helped the situation or not though. Maybe a tip someone else didnt think of.

 
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03-10-08, 10:16 AM   #35  
Just to reiterate that the little single stage Murray is kicking some serious A$$. I used it 2x this weekend and damn if I have gotten my money outta it already. I have gone through my second tank of gas and done the driveway (probably 60x22) 6 or 7 times. When the snow gets too deep I just lean it back a little and make a pass then go back over it for a second time normally.

 
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