Honda Snowblower Questions

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  #1  
Old 01-02-08, 08:13 AM
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Honda Snowblower Questions

I have a Honda HS928TAS snowblower that I bought in 2005. It works great and I highly recommend it. However, I have a few questions:

1. My dealer never seems to have basic parts (shear bolts, shear pins, o-rings) in stock. Is this normal for a Honda dealer? This dealer is about 10 miles away and the next closest one is 20 miles.

2. I followed one of the storage instructions in the manual and drained all the fuel out of the system. When I ran it last week for the first time it started great but fuel leaked out of the carb bowl and the particulate cup. As near as I can tell the o-rings are shot. Does that sound right? I have o-rings on order. The manual has two storage methods. The other method is to fuel it up, add stabilizer and leave it alone. I'm thinking I'll follow that method this year but is there a way to drain all the fuel without trashing the o-rings?

3. Is there a way to get a few more RPM's out of it? I looked at the carburetur and I'm not sure which - of the many - adjustment screws to tweak.

4. Is there a way to add handlebar heaters? I've see motorcycles and ATV's with those. Can I add them to my snowblower?
 
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  #2  
Old 01-02-08, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
I have a Honda HS928TAS snowblower that I bought in 2005. It works great and I highly recommend it. However, I have a few questions:

1. My dealer never seems to have basic parts (shear bolts, shear pins, o-rings) in stock. Is this normal for a Honda dealer? This dealer is about 10 miles away and the next closest one is 20 miles.

2. I followed one of the storage instructions in the manual and drained all the fuel out of the system. When I ran it last week for the first time it started great but fuel leaked out of the carb bowl and the particulate cup. As near as I can tell the o-rings are shot. Does that sound right? I have o-rings on order. The manual has two storage methods. The other method is to fuel it up, add stabilizer and leave it alone. I'm thinking I'll follow that method this year but is there a way to drain all the fuel without trashing the o-rings?

3. Is there a way to get a few more RPM's out of it? I looked at the carburetur and I'm not sure which - of the many - adjustment screws to tweak.

4. Is there a way to add handlebar heaters? I've see motorcycles and ATV's with those. Can I add them to my snowblower?

1) Whenever I go looking for Honda parts (namely engine parts) they always have to order them. I think it is their belief that hondas rarely need service so they don't stock parts for them. (IMO)

2) It is my experience that once o-rings and gaskets get fuel on them and then get run dry, they tend to shrink and/or crack. Personally, I leave fuel in the fuel tank/carburetor with stabilizer in it and run the engine to operating temperature once or twice in the months you don't use the machine. (I know they suggest this with stored automobiles so I carry it over to small engines)

3) I don't know what engine is on that machine, but I know most Hondas I have in my shop have a screw that allows you to adjust the high speed RPM. If you have a GX160-style engine (160 is 5.5hp, used only as reference) on the right side of the throttle lever (tucked under the fuel tank usually) is a screw. If you back that screw out it will allow you to run higher engine speed.

4) I am not an expert by any means, but I would guess no simply because your engine most likely does not have a stator. (similar to an alternator on a car engine) As such, there is no way to power the heaters. *Unless* your blower has a headlight on it then it may be possible but I doubt it would have enough power to do what you want it to.

Sorry for the long reply.. I hope this helps you.
 
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Old 01-02-08, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Legal v8 View Post
1) Whenever I go looking for Honda parts (namely engine parts) they always have to order them. I think it is their belief that hondas rarely need service so they don't stock parts for them. (IMO)

2) It is my experience that once o-rings and gaskets get fuel on them and then get run dry, they tend to shrink and/or crack. Personally, I leave fuel in the fuel tank/carburetor with stabilizer in it and run the engine to operating temperature once or twice in the months you don't use the machine. (I know they suggest this with stored automobiles so I carry it over to small engines)

3) I don't know what engine is on that machine, but I know most Hondas I have in my shop have a screw that allows you to adjust the high speed RPM. If you have a GX160-style engine (160 is 5.5hp, used only as reference) on the right side of the throttle lever (tucked under the fuel tank usually) is a screw. If you back that screw out it will allow you to run higher engine speed.

4) I am not an expert by any means, but I would guess no simply because your engine most likely does not have a stator. (similar to an alternator on a car engine) As such, there is no way to power the heaters. *Unless* your blower has a headlight on it then it may be possible but I doubt it would have enough power to do what you want it to.

Sorry for the long reply.. I hope this helps you.
Thanks for your quick response!
I'll be using stabilizer this year, do I need to have entire gas tank full? Or can it just be enough to get fuel in the carb?

I can add a light to my snowblower so it sounds like I do have a stator.

This is the 9 hp engine. I don't know what the actual engine designation is, but it sure is easy to start. Easy enough that I really wasted money getting the electric start option.
 
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Old 01-02-08, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
Thanks for your quick response!
I'll be using stabilizer this year, do I need to have entire gas tank full? Or can it just be enough to get fuel in the carb?

I can add a light to my snowblower so it sounds like I do have a stator.

This is the 9 hp engine. I don't know what the actual engine designation is, but it sure is easy to start. Easy enough that I really wasted money getting the electric start option.
Leave the tank about 1/2 full. (solely my opinion) Gasoline evaporates over time and if you leave it "just full enough" it can evaporate and hamper your efforts to keep fuel in the carb. Whenever I purchase gas for my small engines I add sta-bil to it as soon as I get home just to be safe. Sea-Foam motor-tune is also a good fuel stabilizer and keeps your engine clean too.

1) One thing you have to keep in mind is how much power it takes to run a light vs. how much power it takes to run the hand warmers. You'll need to find out what hand warmers would fit the handles before going forward. Once you nail this down, find out how much power they need to run and accordingly find out if the machine can handle that load.

2) Does your 9hp engine have a red housing and shroud? If so, it is most likely a GX270 series engine and should have a throttle adjustment screw like I described just to the right of the throttle lever under the gas tank. Unscrewing this screw will open it up a little more. (accessible without removing anything)

Many people get electric start options on their blowers because small engines tend to be a little harder to start in the winter. The nice thing about most newer small engines is they have a compression release that makes them easier to pull. I have an old tecumseh 5hp with enough compression to almost rip your arm off.
 
  #5  
Old 01-02-08, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Legal v8 View Post
Many people get electric start options on their blowers because small engines tend to be a little harder to start in the winter. The nice thing about most newer small engines is they have a compression release that makes them easier to pull. I have an old tecumseh 5hp with enough compression to almost rip your arm off.
That is exactly why I bought it with that feature. My neighbors B&S engine was a killer.

I'll see what I can dig up on power input to the handwarmers. I suspect that it is very similar to the snowblower. I think the light is 12v.
 
  #6  
Old 01-02-08, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
That is exactly why I bought it with that feature. My neighbors B&S engine was a killer.

I'll see what I can dig up on power input to the handwarmers. I suspect that it is very similar to the snowblower. I think the light is 12v.
Almost all of it is 12 volts, but its the amount of current or amperage that it puts out that makes the difference. The handwarmers may be 12v but if it requires more amperage than the engine can put out it could damage the stator/magneto or make the engine stall. I'm not real familiar with small engine stators, but I'm pretty sure that they're not the most powerful things in the world. Good luck to you.
 
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Old 01-02-08, 05:30 PM
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First of all, just wondering where you live that a dealer who sells snowblowers doesn't stock the most common parts for it-Shear pins & carb parts? I am an indepentant repair shop an even I stock carb kits & shear pins for Hondas.
Yes, summer heat can dry out the o-rings.
Storage I highly recomend adding Isopropel dry gas as you have a metal gas tank that will cause condesation.
As far as heaters, you should check with your dealer. Tecumseh & Briggs usually run a lighting coil that is about 18-20 watts. If you have a seal beam type headlight as I have seen on most Hondas, that is drawing all of your 18 watts.
My 1972 snowmobile had a 30 watt lighting coil and ran a 30 watt headlight. The only way I could run my handlebar heaters was to shut-off the headlights. Which meant no night riding on cold nights...LOL
 
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Old 01-02-08, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by indypower500 View Post
First of all, just wondering where you live that a dealer who sells snowblowers doesn't stock the most common parts for it-Shear pins & carb parts? I am an indepentant repair shop an even I stock carb kits & shear pins for Hondas.
Yes, summer heat can dry out the o-rings.
Storage I highly recomend adding Isopropel dry gas as you have a metal gas tank that will cause condesation.
As far as heaters, you should check with your dealer. Tecumseh & Briggs usually run a lighting coil that is about 18-20 watts. If you have a seal beam type headlight as I have seen on most Hondas, that is drawing all of your 18 watts.
My 1972 snowmobile had a 30 watt lighting coil and ran a 30 watt headlight. The only way I could run my handlebar heaters was to shut-off the headlights. Which meant no night riding on cold nights...LOL
(sigh) I live in the Denver, Colorado area. You would think that the dealer would have a decent stock of parts. I'm ordering at least two of everything in anticipation of future needs. I'm really pissed about the shear pins. This is a honest to goodness Honda power equipment dealer with snowblowers on the showroom floor. They sell the units, why don't they stock basic parts? Does anyone have an email address at Honda that I could register my complaint to?

The street lighting here is pretty good so I think I can get by without a lamp, but heated handles sure would be nice. Next, I need to get a cup holder installed. LOL!

I ordered the shop manual and it should be here in a few days. Hopefully it will have specifications for the volt/watt output.

Jim
 
  #9  
Old 01-03-08, 09:34 AM
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Apparently I'm not the only customer using South Side Total Power that isn't very happy with them:
http://denver.citysearch.com/review/1804405

I called another authorized Honda Power Equipment dealer here in town and they do carry all the shear pins and bolts. But they didn't have the o-rings. The guy on the phone knew all this without even consulting a computer so I'm going to take that as a good sign.
 
  #10  
Old 01-03-08, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
I called another authorized Honda Power Equipment dealer here in town and they do carry all the shear pins and bolts. But they didn't have the o-rings. The guy on the phone knew all this without even consulting a computer so I'm going to take that as a good sign.
Hi, I live in Maine and have an HS928 TCD which is the Canadian version of the HS928 TAS, I had my local dealer import it because it has features that are not available on the TAS, namely electric chute controls, 12V DC starter (like a car) and standard work light (as opposed to optional on the TAS), other than that it's identical to yours, GX270 and all.

I know hand warmers are available for my machine so my first thought was that it should be no problem for yours but then it dawned upon me that my blower has a battery and I don't know if that matters for warmers or not.

As for the dealer not having shear pins it's the first time I hear about an authorized Honda snowblower dealer that doesn't stock them, I mean my dealer has barrels of pins or so it seems. Perhaps Honda should be made aware of the situation.

As for other parts well, it's true that Honda snowblower dealers don't stock many of them, as a matter of fact I have a carb and some gaskets on order, been waiting 3 weeks already even though I had been told by the dealer that it would take no more than 3 days. When I called last week they said they had the gaskets but that the carb was BO , meaning further delay, grr.

Since then I have discovered that while Honda snowblower dealers don't stock many parts, Honda engine dealers do. Those are the dealers that sell "raw" engines for custom applications, usually more than one brand. Unfortunately I had my snowblower dealer order the carb before learning that the engine dealer had a good dozen of GX270 factory carbs in stock, and they were slightly cheaper as well.
 
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Old 01-03-08, 10:37 AM
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Wow! Thats pretty sad when a dealer doesn't respond to a customer like that. Honda's are not cheap. I hope those here with issues contact Honda.
I looking to buy a snow thrower from several manufactures,and Honda just came off my list!
 
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Old 01-03-08, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by daswede View Post
Wow! Thats pretty sad when a dealer doesn't respond to a customer like that. Honda's are not cheap. I hope those here with issues contact Honda.
I looking to buy a snow thrower from several manufactures,and Honda just came off my list!
Your dealer may not be the same as my dealer. Go to the parts counter and ask about buying shear pins/bolts or other common items and see what they stock.

I looked pretty carefully when I purchased my snowblower. I felt that the Honda had the best features, highest quality and was likely to last longer than other snowblowers on the market.
 
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Old 01-03-08, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by daswede View Post
I looking to buy a snow thrower from several manufactures,and Honda just came off my list!
Let's see... apart from Honda South Side Total Power also sells Toro, Cub Cadet, Briggs and Stratton, Husqvarna, MTD, Murray, Tecumseh and Troy-Bilt. Obviously you'll have to avoid those and any other snowblower brand that uses Honda, B&S or Tecumseh engines. That leaves... let's see..., nobody?

Don't think a Toro or MTD would be better serviced at that place. It's only very large dealerships that can afford to stick with only one brand so the problems encountered with Honda products at South Side will also happen with any of the above brands. If this had happened at a Honda-only dealership then there would be cause for concern with regards to the quality of Honda service but this is a patent case of a poorly managed local dealership, not a brand-specific problem.
 
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Old 01-05-08, 06:26 PM
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Well crud. New o-rings in the carb and particulate cups didn't solve the problem. The replacement o-ring kit came with four o-rings and a funny looking rubber doodad with four holes in it. I'm not sure where the other two small o-rings and the doodad go.

I started with a clean bowl and particulate cup with no gas in either one. I turned on the gas valve and after about 20 seconds gas started leaking out again. After a more careful examination it looks like the gas is not coming out of the top of the bowl or particulate cup.

So it looks like the problem is upstream of the carburetor/particulate cup and downstream of the valve. When the valve is shut off there is no leak and no gas gets to the carburetor.

Suggestions anyone? I guess I'm going to take the valve assembly apart and see if there is another o-ring in there.

The shop manual is in the mail. I suppose that I might wait for it so I can see what all is involved in the fuel valve. But snow is forecasted for this week so I'm running out of time.

Thanks for your time!
 
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Old 01-06-08, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
Well crud. New o-rings in the carb and particulate cups didn't solve the problem. The replacement o-ring kit came with four o-rings and a funny looking rubber doodad with four holes in it. I'm not sure where the other two small o-rings and the doodad go.

I started with a clean bowl and particulate cup with no gas in either one. I turned on the gas valve and after about 20 seconds gas started leaking out again. After a more careful examination it looks like the gas is not coming out of the top of the bowl or particulate cup.

So it looks like the problem is upstream of the carburetor/particulate cup and downstream of the valve. When the valve is shut off there is no leak and no gas gets to the carburetor.

Suggestions anyone? I guess I'm going to take the valve assembly apart and see if there is another o-ring in there.

The shop manual is in the mail. I suppose that I might wait for it so I can see what all is involved in the fuel valve. But snow is forecasted for this week so I'm running out of time.

Thanks for your time!
Your "doodad" with 4 holes in it goes to the fuel shut-off valve. If you remove the two screws holding the metal plate on top the black plastic lever comes off and under it is the doodad. When putting back together, make sure the funny looking washer goes on top of the lever and under the metal cover.

I am pretty sure the 4 o-ring locations are: 1-bowl, 2- sediment cup, and the other two (I think one may be spare) goes on the weird black plastic thing held on by the idle limit screw. The black plastic phillips head screw for idle stop comes out and when this comes out there is a black plastic thing that slides into the carb body. If you pry this out carefully there is at least one o-ring on it if not two. (my Hondas only have 1). Be careful not to break the plastic thing you pry out. Hope this helps you.
 
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Old 01-07-08, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Legal v8 View Post
Your "doodad" with 4 holes in it goes to the fuel shut-off valve. If you remove the two screws holding the metal plate on top the black plastic lever comes off and under it is the doodad. When putting back together, make sure the funny looking washer goes on top of the lever and under the metal cover.
I replaced the 4 hole doodad in the fuel valve. When I first turned the valve on I still had gas coming out. So I tightened down the screws on the valve some more. That seemed to help but then I realized that it looks like I'm out of gas. So maybe it didn't help.

When I jiggle the carb it seems like gas comes leaking. That doesn't make any sense.
 
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Old 01-07-08, 05:56 PM
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I had the same problem about 3 weeks ago and when I reached the step you're at I gave up and ordered a new carb from Honda. Had to wait 2 weeks for it but it was worth it, blower works like brand new now.
 
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Old 01-07-08, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by KarlK View Post
I had the same problem about 3 weeks ago and when I reached the step you're at I gave up and ordered a new carb from Honda. Had to wait 2 weeks for it but it was worth it, blower works like brand new now.
Ouch, how much did that set you back? And what all did it include?
 
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Old 01-07-08, 10:08 PM
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If gas is leaking from the top of the fuel bowl, then the needle is leaking or the float is stuck.
 
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Old 01-08-08, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
Ouch, how much did that set you back? And what all did it include?
That's the not-so-good part, it cost me $123.99 and included... just the carb, no head gaskets (that cost $5 more). There are generic carbs available for about $50 including head gaskets though but when I used one on my previous machine (HS80) the engine ran rough and backfired from time to time and gas ate through the float after a few months. I fixed this by replacing the float with an original from Honda ($30) which is made of sturdier material but it never worked as good as a genuine factory carb.
 
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Old 09-01-08, 12:10 PM
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Hopefully this will be the final update for this issue.

I bought an entire carburetor, put it on, fired it up and no leaks - no tuning required. Every seal had been replaced inthe old carb and nothing fixed it. My neighbor suggested JB Weld but I couldn't figure out where exactly the leak was coming from so it didn't pursue that option. The carb was a lot less than I was expecting and it came with everything on it except the gaskets between the carb/enging and carb/intake. I used the ones from the old carb and everything is just fine.

BRING ON THE SNOW!!!!
 
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Old 09-02-08, 12:39 AM
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Good news. I'm sure that will be the end of the troubles. Honda carbs don't often give much problem, but when they do, they can be aggravating.
 
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