Briggs & Stratton 10hp-Model 190492-Magnetron Ignition

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  #1  
Old 01-03-08, 02:15 PM
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Question Briggs & Stratton 10hp-Model 190492-Magnetron Ignition

I've acquired a 1983 Gilson snowblower with a 10hp B & S engine with a Magnetron ignition. I installed a new gas tank and cleaned out the carb after letting it soak overnight in carb cleaner. Installed a carb rebuild kit and thought all was well when it started right up and ran well after I made the adjustments on the idle and high speed jets. I tested it this week on a recent snowfall and it again started acting up as it did prior to all of the carb work. The engine will die after about 10 minutes but I am able to restart it after one or two pulls and it will run for another 5-10 minutes. I do not think it is associated with starving for gas. The tank vents fine and the fuel filter flows fine. Therefore, it appears that there may be a problem with the Magnetron Ignition System? I read a thread somewhere in the last week which eluded to a condenser causing this problem. However, there is no condenser in a Magnetron system. I plan to install a new spark plug prior to installing a new Magnetron assembly.

Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Any thoughts and help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-03-08, 03:29 PM
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Coils (also called a magneto) don't fail very often. In your case, I'd pull the coil off the engine and look it over for cracks in the casing. If it looks okay, I'd replace it on the engine leaving a .009-.010" gap between the coil and the flywheel and check the color of the spark. Strong spark color is blue. Then I would run the engine until it quits and check for spark at that time and note the color. If the coil is in fact bad, it will act up when it is warm usually producing a yellow spark. If this happens then the coil is probably bad. If you still get a blue spark I would look elsewhere for problems.
 
  #3  
Old 01-04-08, 11:11 PM
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If your engine still has points, and you have decided it is an ignition problem, then I reccomend replacing the coil. The newer coil won't need the points/condenser, and is more reliable and accurate. Just clip the wire to the points and leave them in there, connect the kill wire to the coil terminal, and gap it .010" from the magnets on the flywheel.
 
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