craftsman snowblower won't run

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  #1  
Old 02-15-08, 07:54 AM
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craftsman snowblower won't run




I got this snowblower for free and it somewhat ran once for me. I had to adjust the belts which are not a little too tight but that's not my problem. the model is 536 918300. I can't find a lot of information about it.

the spark plug was black, it would only run on choke, the throttle return spring is (still) broke.

I put a new spark plug in. still didn't run well if it even started.

I put in a carb rebuild kit. I didn't replace the welsh plugs since the new one didn't fit in the bowl. it was too small. anyway, I replaced both needles, the jet, gaskets, float needle, tested the float, cleaned it all up and put it back together.

I put something on the throttle to act as a return spring. When I did get it to run, it ran really well. I would start to fiddle with the needles (very slowly) to tune it. I could still only keep it running on full choke, and if it died it would be a very frustrating 20 minutes or so before it could get it to run for another 5 at most. I don't know the needle settings, it seems to run if they're about 1/4 turn out from full in.

I have spark, but i'm not sure the spark is strong enough. my gap between the pickup on the fan and the coil is too large in my opinion but I don't know what spec is on this thing. I would say it's around 1/16".

I was thinking about pulling the fan off to adjust the coil, but i want to make sure that's worth doing


do you guys have any advice? I really need to get this thing going.. we have another 10-13 inches coming sunday.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-15-08, 08:10 AM
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If plug is black, it is running too rich,
thanks,
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-08, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by GlenM View Post
If plug is black, it is running too rich,
thanks,
yea, I know that. I haven't had it running long enough since replacing the plug to get a good reading.
 
  #4  
Old 02-15-08, 09:13 AM
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Your unit's model number show the engine is a Tecumseh H70-130205E.
Below is service manual covering your engine that should be of help:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
3 to 11 HP 4 cycle L Head
thanks,
 
  #5  
Old 02-15-08, 09:41 AM
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Take the carburetor off, take it completely apart, clean it with a carb cleaner. Get ALL the small orifices and holes. It may have a lot of varnish in it, keeping it from allowing fuel through.
Take the carb to a repair shop if you can't do it yourself.
 
  #6  
Old 02-15-08, 08:00 PM
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Ok let's try to get you through this without going to a shop, that is the purpose of the forum right? And you have 12" snow coming.

the spark plug was black, it would only run on choke, the throttle return spring is (still) broke. The plug is black because it has been running on choke

I put a new spark plug in. still didn't run well if it even started It is not going to run well untill you rebuild and adjust carb properly

I didn't replace the welsh plugs since the new one didn't fit in the bowl. it was too small. The proper carb kit is PN# 31840 and it should have come with 2 welch plugs. The larger one is inside the bowl and the smaller one is on the side above the idle adjustment needle. This one is important to remove. There are several tiny holes behind it that need to cleaned well.

I put something on the throttle to act as a return spring. Engine will no way run properly without this spring. It is PN# 30826

I don't know the needle settings, it seems to run if they're about 1/4 turn out from full in.
Main needle on bottom of bowl is to be set at 1 1/2 turns out after seating and idle adjustment needle on side is 1 turn out after seating

I was thinking about pulling the fan off to adjust the coil, but i want to make sure that's worth doing. I believe your coil is under the flywheel and is attached to the stator plate. There is no adjustment nor do I think it has any bearing on your problems

In closing your carb needs a proper, thorough cleaning. It is detailed in manual link posted above. These carbs have a metering pin which is enclosed in the carb and cannot be gotten to to clean. You can tell if this is free by shaking carb. It sounds like a BB rolling rattling inside. If you do not hear this the pin is lacquered up and carb will not funtion. Again the correct spring is imperative not just any spring that looks close.
 
  #7  
Old 03-04-08, 09:26 AM
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How to fix carb

I put in a carb rebuild kit. I didn't replace the welsh plugs since the new one didn't fit in the bowl. it was too small. anyway, I replaced both needles, the jet, gaskets, float needle, tested the float, cleaned it all up and put it back together.

I put something on the throttle to act as a return spring. When I did get it to run, it ran really well. I would start to fiddle with the needles (very slowly) to tune it. I could still only keep it running on full choke, and if it died it would be a very frustrating 20 minutes or so before it could get it to run for another 5 at most. I don't know the needle settings, it seems to run if they're about 1/4 turn out from full in.




I have one too. The return spring is not just a return spring, it is actually a governor, so the exact tension on the spring is very important. Mine sticks a little, so when there is no load on it (auger not engaged) the engine speed oscillates. I would work on that spring, or maybe even try to change the throttle linkage so that it is a standard throttle control, rather than an engine speed control.

You will notice that the throttle cable actually does not directly control the throttle butterfly. It is actually a balancing act between the tension on the spring, and the wind off of the cooling fan or the engine vacuum. Briggs and Straton does this setup very commonly, but this is the first I have seen it on a Tecumseh.
 
  #8  
Old 03-04-08, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Amadensor View Post
I have one too. The return spring is not just a return spring, it is actually a governor, so the exact tension on the spring is very important. Mine sticks a little, so when there is no load on it (auger not engaged) the engine speed oscillates. I would work on that spring, or maybe even try to change the throttle linkage so that it is a standard throttle control, rather than an engine speed control.

You will notice that the throttle cable actually does not directly control the throttle butterfly. It is actually a balancing act between the tension on the spring, and the wind off of the cooling fan or the engine vacuum. Briggs and Straton does this setup very commonly, but this is the first I have seen it on a Tecumseh.
You have one (what??) too.
If you have a Tecumseh with an air vane governor, I'd be interested in the model no., spec of your engine.
 
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