Deere 111 Engine Jams

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  #1  
Old 02-16-08, 03:06 PM
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Deere 111 Engine Jams

I have an old Deere 111 Lawn Tractor. It had a short block put in several years ago. Last summer after I sorted out a fuel problem it ran better than in years. However, at the end of the season it quit and wouldn't turn over.
I just got to investigating. The engine was jammed so I took off the shroud and could free it by turning it back and forth with a little leverage. It then started and ran fine. The next day it started and then abruptly stopped. My wife was using it and said it made a bad noise. So it now seems to be jammed again.
The dealer thinks it needs another short block which I can't see being worthwhile or it might be the pto clutch seizing.

My sense when I freed it by hand was that the trouble wasn't internal to the engine as it seemed to run fine afterwards.

Is it easy to take of the pto assembly and could this do it? It would have to be jamming against something attached to the frame. Any other ideas?
 
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Old 02-16-08, 03:42 PM
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It sounds as though the the engine is seizing once it gets hot. If the machine was run with low oil there may be some aluminum transfer from the connecting rod to the crankshaft. This is the area most likely seizing. So:

1) has it been run low on oil?

or

2) do you mow hills for an extended period of time so that the oil that is in the engine is tipped to one side leaving the other lacking necessary oil ?

Sometimes you can clean up the journals on the crank and install a new connecting rod and get away with it, depends on how bad it is. New shortblock may be the way to go.
 
  #3  
Old 02-16-08, 04:17 PM
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Thanks for the response. We don't do much mowing on a slope so that should not have contributed. We have also mowed to same property with it for 15 years so I would think we would have hit this problem before.

When it last stopped it had only run for a minute or so would not have been hot. If it was seizing through heat would it not release when it cooled down?
 
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Old 02-16-08, 09:21 PM
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No, usually when one siezes, it smears the aluminum onto the iron crankshaft. When this happens, you can sometimes work with it and break it back loose, but it is usually only a temporary fix, as the damage is done and it's only a matter of time. Cooling down won't help. It sounds to me like the engine was run out of oil at one time.
 
  #5  
Old 02-17-08, 07:38 PM
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I rechecked the oil and it is fine so I am sure it has never run out of oil. I am trying to pull the flywheel off as I still have a suspiciaon that something in the governor mechanism has come adrift.

It hasn't released for me, although I did apply some heat. I am unsure how much I can safely apply so I think I will seek some onsite help.

The reason I am doing this is that the jam seems very sudden and metallic. When I turn it, there is a point where it appears to hit something. I don't see how this can be internal to the engine as when I first freed it, the engine ran fine afterwards.
 
  #6  
Old 02-18-08, 07:10 PM
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You never mentioned the engine make or numbers. It may be possible the magnets in the flywheel came apart, but they won't run after. There is a puller for flywheels. Tell the pros what you have for engine #'s & they will tell you what you need. You do NOT need heat to pull a flywheel..Roger
 
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Old 02-18-08, 07:23 PM
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I agree, on all points.

No heat, use a puller, and the magnets are a likely suspect.
 
  #8  
Old 02-19-08, 11:07 PM
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Thanks for all the help. I finally managed to pull it off, but it took a sharp blow with a hammer on the puller.

Unfortunately I didn't find anything that I wanted. So I kept going and pulled the PTO off and the engine out. The problem is that the end has broken off the conn rod. Can't inagine how it ran at all but I guess a piece must of dropped out but it still sort of held together until the second time it quit.

I think I am going to replace the mower. I could drop a new engine in or short block but as everything else is so old I don't think it makes sense, especially as the mowers seem to have dropped in cost.

I can't see any damage to the crankshaft although I can't see it all without putting a mirror in. If I wanted to strip it down further, would I need to take out the camshaft to get at the bolts on the end of the conn rod? I am just toying with the idea of a new conn rod, if the crankshaft is ok. There is damage right on the lip at the bottom of the cylinder but not in the bore. Also a bit of wear on the plastic part of the governor assembly, although not to the gear part. I assume this is the oiling system acting as a paddle. Is this correct (it is a Briggs & S)?

Thanks again for the suggestions.
 
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