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hard starting


einsteindog's Avatar
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02-19-08, 11:05 AM   #1  
hard starting

Had great help w/ Briggs engine now need hel w? Tecumseh engine. My Dad has a Craftsman vacuum with a Tecumseh engine Model #143.374362(TVS90).Would not start. Rebuilt carb, new spark plug, air filter. Started up fine, ran good. Went to start up this morning after a few days and it wouldn't start.Finally statrted it,ran great, shut it and it won't restart.Any ideas?

 
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cheese's Avatar
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02-19-08, 09:17 PM   #2  
Try pumping the primer a little more vigorously and more times before starting. If that doesn't help, see if a shot of starting fluid gets it started. If so, you still need to make carb repairs.


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02-19-08, 10:01 PM   #3  
sense its a Tecumseh. you say its hard to start and when you shut it down it won't restart right away. if you let it sit for awhile and it runs after sitting for awhile then it sounds like the coil.

 
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02-20-08, 08:58 AM   #4  
Wouldn't you know it, It started up this morning, stayed running. Once I shut it down, hard starting back up. After a couple of yanks, the machine had the worse kick back. any suggestions?

 
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02-20-08, 09:03 AM   #5  
Kick back is usually a partially sheared flywheel key which would also contribute to the hard starting. Remove the flywheel and check it out. Have a good one. Geo

 
einsteindog's Avatar
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02-20-08, 09:15 AM   #6  
Already checked the flywheel key.Not broken.

 
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02-20-08, 05:04 PM   #7  
Posted By: einsteindog Already checked the flywheel key.Not broken.
doesn't have to be broken does it look like its bent. any play in the flywheel. when it kicked back did it ripe the pull rope out of your hand.

 
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02-20-08, 09:10 PM   #8  
I agree, if the blade is on and tight and it is kicking back, then change the flywheel key.


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02-28-08, 11:48 AM   #9  
Well I changed the flywheel key. Theres still a kick back, but not as severe, and it doesn't happen all the time.

 
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02-28-08, 08:16 PM   #10  
And the blade is on, and tight, and not worn off at the ends? The blade acts as a flywheight in place of a cast iron flywheel, so if it is loose or too short, it will tend to kick back. If this is an OHV engine, and the blade checks out ok, then I suggest adjusting the valve clearances.


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03-03-08, 12:30 PM   #11  
heres a stupid question. How do I tell the difference between a cast iron or aluminum flywheel?

 
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03-03-08, 04:17 PM   #12  
Posted By: einsteindog heres a stupid question. How do I tell the difference between a cast iron or aluminum flywheel?
easiest way to tell is put a magnet on it. If it sticks, it is cast iron. If not, it is aluminum.

 
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03-04-08, 12:14 AM   #13  
I kept mentioning blade, thinking this was a mower (maybe a vacuum deck), and if it is, it probably has an aluminum flywheel. If it is a true vacuum, it may have a cast iron flywheel if it has a clutched load. Usually an engine that is set up to run with or without the load applied, it will have a cast flywheel, since the flyweight of the load will not be present at all times. A cast iron flywheel is usually brown, and an aluminum one is usually grey. As long as it has the flywheel it came with, assuming this is the original engine, it shouldn't make any difference.


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03-12-08, 08:12 AM   #14  
As if I didn't have enough problems with this machine, now theres gas in the oil.What else can happen?

 
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03-12-08, 09:53 AM   #15  
Your starter rope could break...^_^
Did you put new kit in carb, or just clean it good.
sounds like inlet needle not seating properly to prevent gas from going on thru to crankcase, or the float has pinholes allowing gas to enter.

 
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03-12-08, 11:31 AM   #16  
Brand new kit in carb. including new float.Changed oil. Started up fine. a little white smoke coominig from muffler.

 
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