Craftsman 8/26

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  #1  
Old 02-24-08, 06:28 AM
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Thumbs up Craftsman 8/26

Hi all,
Am new here and thought I'd drop in and say hi.
Was having a great day yesterday blowing a few inches of snow and suddenly my blower caffed.
I tried the pull cord and it indicated a jamm.
After pushing it from my neighbours driveway I took the belt cover off and slipped a socket on the crank.
Got half a turn one way and the same the other direction.
Can also here this clunk.She has blown a connecting rod before.
I assume this is twice and was thinking of tackling the job.I'm pretty sure i can get a rod locally here at Sears and will check before i try to get the pulleys off.
As far as i know and im no small engine mech,that might be the toughtest part of the job.

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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  #2  
Old 02-24-08, 06:58 AM
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MA
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Getting the pulley's off if the easiest part of the job. 1st I would ask that you post you engine model and type#'s for us. I am going to assume it is a Tecumseh engine. Troublesome is that this the 2nd connecting rod. Most commonly rods break due to low oil or engine overheating. Damage can be done to piston, cylinder wall, and crankshaft. If a new rod was put in 1st time and other damage was ignored, could be cause of this rod. I think before I put a 2nd rod in I would look at a shortblock.
 
  #3  
Old 02-24-08, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by smallengineguy View Post
Getting the pulley's off if the easiest part of the job. 1st I would ask that you post you engine model and type#'s for us. I am going to assume it is a Tecumseh engine. Troublesome is that this the 2nd connecting rod. Most commonly rods break due to low oil or engine overheating. Damage can be done to piston, cylinder wall, and crankshaft. If a new rod was put in 1st time and other damage was ignored, could be cause of this rod. I think before I put a 2nd rod in I would look at a shortblock.
Thanks for your quick response.
Do i need a puller to remove the pully ?
A mech did the first rod so i assume there was no damage or it was cleaned up.
Type#'s are :Blower model-C944.52950
Engine Model-52950
4 cycle Eng No.-143.696062
Rod assembly-part-26 & 27
part#-32591C for the rod
Low oil level is likely the cause,since it was on add after the fact,my bad.The dipper can't ssem to pick it up at that level.Uses more than i thought and will check every use from now on.
 
  #4  
Old 03-05-08, 07:24 AM
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Head Torque

GoodDay All,
Disassembly went fine on the tecumseh.
The internals look fine,rings,piston,cylinder wall,and crank.
Cleaned around valves.
Replaced and torqued the connecting rod cap screws to 200 in.lbs
Timing remains aligned.

My question is regarding the head torque.I have a typical torque value of 160-200 inch/lbs from a friend.
What is the actual spec on the head torque please.

When the timing marks are aligned,i am assuming the piston is at tdc.Is that right ?

thankyou
 

Last edited by sunburst2007; 03-05-08 at 07:53 AM. Reason: forgot something
  #5  
Old 03-05-08, 04:36 PM
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Well, I couldn't get any of the numbers you posted to come up.

If this is a "L" head engine you can download the whole service manual with the torque diagram as well below;

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
 
  #6  
Old 03-05-08, 07:11 PM
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Post Craftsman Snowblower - Tecumseh Head Torque

Not sure if it's an L head or not.How can you tell ?
The engine No. 143.696062 equates to HM80-155171F

Thanks for the link,very nice manual indeed and excellent for a handyman like me that's learning.

The cylinder head torque for that engine turned out to be 200 inch/lbs.
A nice note in the manual about torquing up the connecting rod cap screws at 50 in/lb intervals.I worked them up slow with a box end.Tight spot to work in.The piston goes in both ways but those tips in the manual make the difference.I noticed the little arrow on the side of the piston & thought hmm...wonder what that means.Short side of the connecting rod and toward the valves.

Thanks again
Much appreciated
If you've got the time,go for it
 
  #7  
Old 03-07-08, 02:03 PM
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No Spark

Craftsman 8 Hp Snowblower
Tecumseh
Model-C944.52950
Engine Model-52950 - HM80-155171F
4 cycle Eng No.-143.696062

After replacing the connecting rod and assembly,a failure to start seems to be caused by a no spark condition.
I'm 100% sure the marks were aligned since the gears were not removed.
I'm thinking that the jar or bump of the connecting rod failure may have broken the key on the flywheel.

Is there anyway to prove the key is still in 1 piece without removing the flywheel ?
 
  #8  
Old 03-07-08, 02:39 PM
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Once you remove the starter cup you can see the key in the keyway and usually tell if it has sheared with removing flywheel.
 
  #9  
Old 03-07-08, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sunburst2007 View Post

After replacing the connecting rod and assembly,a failure to start seems to be caused by a no spark condition

A sheared flywheel key will have nothing to do with a "no spark" situation. Disconnect the kill lead wire from the coil and test for spark again, If you now have spark check your kill switch for a short.

If you still don't have spark with the kill wire disconnected check the coil to flywheel air gap. Make sure it's close to 0.125", If it is you may have a bad coil.
 
  #10  
Old 03-08-08, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sunburst2007 View Post
Not sure if it's an L head or not.How can you tell ?
The engine No. 143.696062 equates to HM80-155171F
If the model number (The Tecumseh number, not craftsman) does not start with "OH" or "OHH" It is an L-Head engine. In your case (HM80) I know for a fact is an L-Head engine (also known as a flathead engine) I do find it quite odd that this engine has gone through 2 rods. I have this identical engine thats 30 years old and has never even needed a new muffler.. Did you get this machine second hand?
 
  #11  
Old 03-08-08, 11:20 AM
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enging rev high - governor

ok,the flywheel key was sheared.Replaced key and she started fine. :-)
Blew snow up to the street and ran fine for 10 mins then started to high rev and
i noticed fluid on the ground.Back in the garage now.
Took cover off carb to check governor linkage,seems fine.
There is oil on the side or near the crank blow vent so i think it's blowing oil out the vent.
I filled the crank over the fill mark by 1/8 of an inch.

Is it possible the oil is splashing up on the governor gear inside the crank and affecting the governor ?
Or something else i missed like misaligned the governor gear somehow ?

I'm going to drain some oil out and try again.

any ideas ?

thanks for your help by the way.
 
  #12  
Old 03-08-08, 01:21 PM
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Success & finally blowing snow

Governor problem solved
The governor linkage clamp at the crankcase cover wasn't all the way on the pin and tipping during operation.
The high revs i figure was enough to blow oil out the vent.

Thru me for a loop there

Got the driveway blown out and sipping hot chocolate again
Woot Woot

Thanks again for all your great advice.
It sure means alot

Legal v8, ye it was donated by my Father-in-law in 1996 so it's probably 30 years old.
Running on the engine on the add mark doesn't help.
Will be keeping a close eye on that dip stick from now on.
Don't see any leaks anywhere,been checking closely.
The seals are all good.They work pretty hard so i guess it uses more than i thought.
 
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