Honda HR214 w/ GXV120 w/ BE03A carb problem
#1
Honda HR214 w/ GXV120 w/ BE03A carb problem
I have an old Honda sitting out in my garage that was 'surging' and would die once into grass.
I've read here that once the surge problem started, the only real cure was to replace the carb, since taking it apart and cleaning it never helped at all.
Anyways, it would be nice to see if I can get it working this spring. The mower is a model HR214SXA, VIN/Frame 6000987 with engine #1191386.
My reading has lead me to believe that the carb is a BE03A
and I have found one on the web.
http://tewarehouse.com/YAM49-16
My question is, am I looking at the right model carb?
And has anyone had success using one of these carbs?
TIA,
I've read here that once the surge problem started, the only real cure was to replace the carb, since taking it apart and cleaning it never helped at all.
Anyways, it would be nice to see if I can get it working this spring. The mower is a model HR214SXA, VIN/Frame 6000987 with engine #1191386.
My reading has lead me to believe that the carb is a BE03A
and I have found one on the web.
http://tewarehouse.com/YAM49-16
My question is, am I looking at the right model carb?
And has anyone had success using one of these carbs?
TIA,
#2
From what I see that is the proper replacement carb for your engine, I have never bought TEW replacement carbs but have used many from Stens without incident.
You should be just fine with that one.
Good Luck
You should be just fine with that one.
Good Luck
#3
Just now got around to it..
Ordered the new carb, installed it and actually got the engine to run a little bit.
But, it would not stay running, no matter what I did with the adjustments.
It was working so much like the old carb, it might still be the same problem (not the carb?)..
I'm almost ready to take it into a shop and let them take a shot at it.
Haha! $600 later, it would be working again!!
But, it would not stay running, no matter what I did with the adjustments.
It was working so much like the old carb, it might still be the same problem (not the carb?)..
I'm almost ready to take it into a shop and let them take a shot at it.
Haha! $600 later, it would be working again!!

#4
Have you replaced the spark plug ?
There should be a spring over the rod going to the carb, Is this spring connected on both ends and the coils not stretched out of shape ?
Can you apply the choke slowly and have the engine continue to run with/without surging ?
There should be a spring over the rod going to the carb, Is this spring connected on both ends and the coils not stretched out of shape ?
Can you apply the choke slowly and have the engine continue to run with/without surging ?
#5
The spring is good, and it would only start if I used starter spray and held the choke exactly right.
And then, it wouldn't run by itself for more than 15 or 20 seconds before dying.
It worked great for 5 pr 6 years after we got it, but then my wife insisted that I do the maintenance.
So, we spent about $70 on a new Honda bag, blade, air & fuel filters and spark plug. All OEM exact replacements.
BIG mistake! My over-priced Honda never ran right again.
I figured it was the carb or the governor.
I know now, it's most likely the governor..
And I don't have a clue how to repair or tweak it..
I did change the oil too.. Maybe that's it, I put in the wrong oil and that affected the governor..?.
And then, it wouldn't run by itself for more than 15 or 20 seconds before dying.
It worked great for 5 pr 6 years after we got it, but then my wife insisted that I do the maintenance.
So, we spent about $70 on a new Honda bag, blade, air & fuel filters and spark plug. All OEM exact replacements.
BIG mistake! My over-priced Honda never ran right again.
I figured it was the carb or the governor.
I know now, it's most likely the governor..
And I don't have a clue how to repair or tweak it..

I did change the oil too.. Maybe that's it, I put in the wrong oil and that affected the governor..?.
#6
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A couple of things
Try running with the gas cap off. If it runs, its a gas cap blockage. Or, disconnect the fuel line at the carb and see if gas flows. Either way they will vacuum lock very quickly if the cap is plugged. In 2 out of 2 new GX160's, I have had at least one of the holes plugged up right out of the box. Press a paper clip or nail into the the 2 little outer holes on the underside of the cap. You may have to press harder than you think necessary. Then try to clean it out.
Next, Keihin carbs. Both of my GX160's have BE series carbs. The QC is awful and you can find all kinds of stuff floating around in them. Rubber from flashing comes to mind but lots of unidentified stuff. I used to be in the carb manufacturing business. While I'm not a mechanic, I do know how a carb should look like when it leaves the factory. Tear it down and clean it out. They are simple to work on. There are several good links on this forum. Buying a new one is no guarantee its not full of crud.
When you clean it out, the pilot jet can be tough. Most wire from bread ties is too large. I use a strand of speaker wire or jewelers wire. The wire should go thru easily. Look through the two side holes and make sure there's no crud being pushed out. If there is, clean it over and over and over until you're satisfied its clean. Use a spray can of carb cleaner with one of those plastic straws. Wear eye protection. Not a bad idea to have a water soaked cloth next to you as the spray can get on you.
Next, Keihin carbs. Both of my GX160's have BE series carbs. The QC is awful and you can find all kinds of stuff floating around in them. Rubber from flashing comes to mind but lots of unidentified stuff. I used to be in the carb manufacturing business. While I'm not a mechanic, I do know how a carb should look like when it leaves the factory. Tear it down and clean it out. They are simple to work on. There are several good links on this forum. Buying a new one is no guarantee its not full of crud.
When you clean it out, the pilot jet can be tough. Most wire from bread ties is too large. I use a strand of speaker wire or jewelers wire. The wire should go thru easily. Look through the two side holes and make sure there's no crud being pushed out. If there is, clean it over and over and over until you're satisfied its clean. Use a spray can of carb cleaner with one of those plastic straws. Wear eye protection. Not a bad idea to have a water soaked cloth next to you as the spray can get on you.
#7
Thanks for the info. Since I have the Sears mower running,
the Honda is for when I have spare time to tinker.
I have tried it with a loose gas cap. No air filter etc.
There is a little filter/strainer on the tank end of the gas line
that seems okay too. I pulled the line off the carb nipple
and the gas came out like crazy..
I'll try taking both carbs apart and see if I can clean them
up. With two of them, maybe I'll get lucky.
Thanks again,
Rich
the Honda is for when I have spare time to tinker.
I have tried it with a loose gas cap. No air filter etc.
There is a little filter/strainer on the tank end of the gas line
that seems okay too. I pulled the line off the carb nipple
and the gas came out like crazy..
I'll try taking both carbs apart and see if I can clean them
up. With two of them, maybe I'll get lucky.
Thanks again,
Rich
#8
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Honda Carb/Engine ID info.
I came across a Honda HR194SX with a busted handle and leaking carb....for 15 bucks......runs great. I would like to know where I can find the engine ID #, which engine it is, so I can get a carb kit for the machine.......OR....is this carb a basic float/ venturi/ jet unit, in which case I could simply clean it and be back in action.....I have already welded the handle. I collect Lawn Boys, and have a sea of Craftsmans for sale, but this Honda is truly built like a tank....
#9
You can probably just clean it and get it back in service. Hondas rarely need actual parts for the carbs.
#10
At long last
I got some spare time and installed a new carb..
Before hand, it would not start at all. But after installing
the replacement carb, it started but would die quickly.
I tried holding the carb lever by hand and was able to
keep it running for a couple of minutes. But when I would
let go, it would die..
I think the problem has to do with the governed wheel or
weights inside the engine body.
I've downloaded the GXV120 engine parts diagrams and
maybe this winter I'll strip it down and see if I can
determine what the problem is..
If I fail to find the fault, I'll put it out for the lawnmower collector in the old white pickup..
Before hand, it would not start at all. But after installing
the replacement carb, it started but would die quickly.
I tried holding the carb lever by hand and was able to
keep it running for a couple of minutes. But when I would
let go, it would die..
I think the problem has to do with the governed wheel or
weights inside the engine body.
I've downloaded the GXV120 engine parts diagrams and
maybe this winter I'll strip it down and see if I can
determine what the problem is..
If I fail to find the fault, I'll put it out for the lawnmower collector in the old white pickup..

#11
The governor shouldn't be able to make it die. It may be trying to close the throttle, but if the idle screw is set properly, the governor can't stop it.
#12
I was under the impression that the governor was the initial
problem, since it would die when going into in deeper grass.
A change in load on the engine wouldn't be compensated for,
by the gov..
Doesn't the gov set the air intake to increase RPMs when
they start to drop off?
It seems like the RPMs vary during warm up and gov shaft
doesn't rotate enough to keep it from stalling out..
If that's not what's going on, then I don't have a prayer of repairing this thing..

and it's past time to put it out for the lawnmowerman..
I purchased this Honda on 4/17/1985 LOL!
#13
Yes, the governor opens the throttle as needed to compensate for load on the engine. However, when you let it idle, the governor should not be doing anything. The engine should run at idle speed with no aid from the governor. The governor holds the throttle closed at idle and should not have to open the throttle until the throttle control lever is set to run at higher rpm. Governor surge is not a governor problem, it is the governor trying to keep an engine running even though engine conditions are wrong. This is nearly always caused by a carburetor problem. Occasionally it is an air leak or similar problem. On hondas, sometimes the black plastic piece between the head and carb gets cracked and allows air to leak in through it.
#14
Thanks for the info.
The plastic part was ok to reuse and I also added a little sealer
to it, when the new carb was installed.
I need storage space in the garage, so it's a toss-up if
I keep this thing to work on later.
It was such a great machine, I just hate to just throw it away.
The local repair guy I called, told me he wouldn't touch a Honda.
Wouldn't even buy it for parts. That kinda sends a message.
The plastic part was ok to reuse and I also added a little sealer
to it, when the new carb was installed.
I need storage space in the garage, so it's a toss-up if
I keep this thing to work on later.
It was such a great machine, I just hate to just throw it away.
The local repair guy I called, told me he wouldn't touch a Honda.
Wouldn't even buy it for parts. That kinda sends a message.

#15
Wow... I prefer honda engines to any, especially for horizontal shaft engines. The GX series is nearly indestructable. So good in fact, that the chinese are making exact clones of it. Kawasaki and the daihatsu-made briggs vanguard engines are right up there with them and I may prefer them a little for vertical shaft engines, but not by much. A pressure washing company will turn their nose up at anything other than a honda. I suspect maybe he (your local guy) just doesn't understand them.
#16
Gone
Thanks Cheese..
I was doing some clean up for another project and decided to
get rid of the Honda. Now, I have more storage space.
I've got way too many retirement activities to be tweaking
around on stubborn lawnmowers..
Take care,
Rich
I was doing some clean up for another project and decided to
get rid of the Honda. Now, I have more storage space.
I've got way too many retirement activities to be tweaking
around on stubborn lawnmowers..

Take care,
Rich
#17
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Im working on one of those mowers/engines myself with my small engine business. If you have verified that the fuel system is good. You might want to try cleaning the rust off of the flywheel and magneto/coil area if any. You will have to remove the coil and clean the rust off and then regap the air gap of the coil. Give this a try to see if it helps.
#18
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If anybody sees this thread in the future, don't throw that old honda out! Checkout my site at Honda HR214 Blog to see information and tips on restoration of one of these neat old hondas!