yardman lawn tractor won't start

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  #1  
Old 03-28-08, 02:38 PM
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yardman lawn tractor won't start

Hi I have a Yardman lawn tractor giving me fits. The model # is PR1842STB for the lawn tractor. Engine is a Briggs and Stratton. It says INTEK PLUS 18.0 H.P. OHV. There is a engine sticker on the side that says: family YBSYS.5012VP 274826. There also is a model # on top of the exhaust that says model # 31H777 0202 type e1 code 020308ZA.
I was on here late last fall and was told maybe the valves needed adjusted, but tried to start the mower before I went and bought a manual. I was checking things over ( of course its not starting) and noticed that the wires going into the underside of the carb bowl were wet and smelled of gas. I cleaned them and plugged back in and it started but it will not start again. I assume these wires are supposed to be dry? If so what do I need to replace, gasket? I only get about 2 rotations and then it stops.Also the solenoid will just clicked after hitting the key a few times. Any advice or do I still need to check out having someone adjust the valves?
Thanks for any and all help.
Orbit
 
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  #2  
Old 03-28-08, 03:20 PM
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To me it sounds like you have both a carb & a battery issue. The wires are wet because fuel is leaking into the carb when the engine is off. This is usually caused by a leaking needle valve & seat &/or a leaking float. It may be time to clean & re-condition the carb. The solenoid clicking indicates at least a discharged /poor battery. Charge & test the battery with a hydrometer & a load tester & deturmine the battery condition. Also check the oil. If it's overfull &/or smells like gas, change it before you start the engine. What was the first problem that had you adjusting valves?? Let us know the results & we'll go from there!!! Good Luck, Roger
 
  #3  
Old 03-28-08, 04:26 PM
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Thanks for the reply. So do I need to buy a new needle valve and seat. If I buy new ones do I still need to clean the carb?
The first problem was basicly the same engine would crank a couple times, but just wouldn't get to a start point. I change the battery and plug but that didn't help. I may not have given enough info before, but it sounds like a needle may be the problem.
Thanks orbit
 
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Old 03-28-08, 07:12 PM
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The fuel shutoff valve prevents gas from getting into the carb ventura, which leads to the intake. The shut-off valve stops gas from entering the engine, it does not stop gas from entering the bowl. That is the job of the seat/needle with help of the float.

The reason for the wet cables at the bottom of the carb may be due to one of two issues, or both.

Issue A - bad gasket where the fuel shut-off valve screws into the carb. ( it could be that the shut-off valve is loose)
you have to check carefully and follow the wet up the carb. If the only place that is wet is at the bottom, then the gasket at the shut-off valve is bad. If the wetness starts higher up, you have utter problems. See Issue B

Issue B- carb flooding - if the seat/needle is worn then fuel continues to seep into the carb bowl which eventually fills up and two things happen - the gas will overflow the bowl and leak out, or the bowl overflows, the gas leaks out AND gas enters the engine via the breather tube. If the oil level is too high, chances are you have gas in the oil. If gas is in the oil, the oil will appear as if it has a clear liquid halo around it. AFTER correcting the leaking problem, change the oil before starting if you suspect that you MIGHT have gas in the oil. Better to be safe than sorry.

The float is connected to the needle, as the level in the bowl rises, the float rises, which in turns, raises the needle to the point where it seats and shuts off gas flow. If the float has a crack or leak that allows gas to get inside, you see the float is hollow, then the float sits lower in the bowl than designed and does not rise sufficiently to close the needle fully.

I had a carb with flooding problem, I changed float, and then needle, then another needle, to no avail. After replacing the seat, the problem went away.

Changing the seat is a lot easier than you think. if you have 1/4-20 tap, a socket, a bolt with 1/4-20 threads, and a nut and washer to fit the bolt, you are halfway home.

Cleaning the carb is icing on the cake, if you replace seat/needle/float you don't HAVE to clean the carb, but if it has never been done, it is always a good idea. The level of cleaning you do is up to you. the main jet should be removed and soaked. It is common for some of the openings to be clogged. Cleaning/unclogging the main jet helps the flow of gas and prevents lean running conditions. The main jet is removed using a screwdriver. be careful not to damage the threads as you remove it. Spraying ALL of the ports/air vents/etc on the carb should be done at a minimum. You can shoot carb cleaner up into the main jet, if you choose not to remove it.

The main jet can sometimes be difficult to get out as they are often stuck. The jet is made of brass and easily damaged. go slow - discretion is the better part of valor - in other words, if the main jet does not come out easily, leave it in and spray or soak the heck out of it.

You can play around with things, or you can simply kill three birds with one stone and replace needle, seat and float at one time. Don't forget to also get a new bowl gasket and gasket for the full shut off valve. Since you are going to be making a trip/ordering the parts, and since the gaskets won't break the bank, might as well get them.

I'm sure this was more than you wanted to know, but I hope it helps most of your questions and a few you may not have known to ask.

Good Luck
 

Last edited by Rain Man av; 03-28-08 at 07:16 PM. Reason: ' Cause I'm a Moron
  #5  
Old 03-28-08, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by breakingorbit View Post
Thanks for the reply. So do I need to buy a new needle valve and seat. If I buy new ones do I still need to clean the carb?
The first problem was basicly the same engine would crank a couple times, but just wouldn't get to a start point. I change the battery and plug but that didn't help. I may not have given enough info before, but it sounds like a needle may be the problem.
Thanks orbit
Have you had the battery load tested?? Have you checked the water in the battery with a hydrometer??? The engine cranking a couple times kinda sounds like a battery issue. Did you charge & test you're new battery??? I always clean a carb in a bath for serveral hours, (maybe a couple days) in a bath type cleaner & spray out with a carb cleaner aresol spray & compressed air. Even if you replace the needle & seat, You should still fully clean the carb.. Always remember, Just because the battery's new, does'nt mean it's good,... Roger
 

Last edited by hopkinsr2; 03-28-08 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Spelling & stuff
  #6  
Old 03-29-08, 03:33 PM
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Hey Gang, thanks for the info I will be following your advice and doing these over the course of the next week, I hope to be up and running soon. I will post back when I am done to follow up to see if I did everything right.
Thanks Orbit
 
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Old 04-02-08, 12:08 PM
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next step?

Hi gang, I'm lookin for some more advice. I followed the last couple of posts and now my mower is starting .BUT, as soon as I put it under load, in gear or engage the blades, it wants to die . What is the next step here?
Again thanks for all the advice.
Orbit
 
  #8  
Old 04-02-08, 10:18 PM
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When there is no load, is the engine running properly? Will it idle evenly, and accellerate with crisp response, or does it surge and try to die when you speed it up? If it runs fine with no load, and dies when you let off the clutch or engage the blades, I would suspect the seat switch...but if it isn't running like it should without a load, I'd suspect carb problems...still.
 
  #9  
Old 04-02-08, 10:20 PM
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Euthanasia--or possibly your local tractor repair shop ?
 
  #10  
Old 04-03-08, 01:24 PM
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DOH! stupid,stupid,stupid. Its a good thing I have you guys to help me out. After reading Cheese's post I realized I had unplugged the seat switch while charging the battery, so I could try to start it without unhooking charger. Like a dummy I forgot to plug it back in. Anyway mowers up and running
thanks again. Orbit
 
  #11  
Old 04-03-08, 11:51 PM
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Ha! Even the pros do it now and then...

Glad you got it fixed!
 
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