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LT1000 will not stay running


Radar2008's Avatar
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04-18-08, 03:37 PM   #1  
LT1000 will not stay running

I have aquired a Craftsman Lt1000 18hp B&S
and I have been bypassing the electric start by jumping the selenoid. After I get it started it stays running about 15-20 minutes then dies. It will start up again but keeps dying in the middle of my lawn cuts.

Any suggestions?

 
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cheese's Avatar
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04-19-08, 01:14 AM   #2  
Got the engine model#?


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04-19-08, 05:13 PM   #3  
model # 917.272761

#917.272761 This is the model # located under the seat.

 
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04-19-08, 05:26 PM   #4  
Hmmm.....Think I'd look at the gas cap vent, That's about the amount of time it takes to pull a vacuum on the tank if it's plugged (not venting).

 
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04-19-08, 05:39 PM   #5  
Thanks alot..I'll check it out tomorrow, one other question Do you think i need to replace the selenoid since i have to start it by jumping the selenoid? I had a new key switch installed and I noticed tonight also the amp meter is not working.

 
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04-19-08, 06:46 PM   #6  
Posted By: Radar2008 I had a new key switch installed

Well then, I have a question before I answer yours.

Are you SURE the proper switch was installed ?

 
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04-20-08, 07:31 AM   #7  
Identical

Yes the key switch is identical to the old key switch.

 
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04-20-08, 07:52 AM   #8  
OK Radar,

I believe we need to work on your start problem (solenoid) just to eliminate the electrical system.

How have you been jumping the solenoid ?

When you turn the key to the start position does the solenoid click ?

 
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04-20-08, 12:50 PM   #9  
selenoid

I have been jumping the selenoid with a screwdriver on the pos+ and neg. to get the tractor running. I put on a new gas cap today and taken it for a spin this afternoon and it still runs about 20 min. and dies! So back to square 1 again.

 
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04-20-08, 12:53 PM   #10  
selenoid

By the way, no sound from the selenoid

 
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04-20-08, 01:27 PM   #11  
Do you have a multimeter so you can do some testing on this electrical system ?

 
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04-21-08, 10:17 AM   #12  
multimeter

All I have at the moment is a circuit tester with a light on the end, but if I need a multimeter for this project I can order one.

 
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04-21-08, 10:41 AM   #13  
Radar-

I have a Model 917-270810 (19.5HP B&S IC, similar to yours). Is there a 30A (green) ATO (blade-style) fuse somewhere near the bottom right-side of the engine compartment? I believe this feeds the solenoid, and if blown, will not let the solenoid click, and consequently not let the engine start.

Also, check the choke linkage for proper adjustment. Since you say the engine won't stay running after 15-20 minutes, this could be a choke-related problem. HTH,

Steve

 
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04-21-08, 11:31 AM   #14  
choke linkage

Yes - I did find a 20 amp inline fuse going to the selenoid. I replaced the fuse and the electonic ignition starts right up at the turn of the key In Regards to adjusting the choke linkage, is there a single adjustment screw ? The choke linkage seems to move freely

 
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04-21-08, 11:42 AM   #15  
Choke adjustment

I found a link from the B&S website explaining the details on choke adjustment. I will try that and see what happens.

http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faq...V4dD1jaG9rZQ**

 
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04-21-08, 04:27 PM   #16  
No shutdowns

Well , it seems that the choke is fine, so i cranked it over and mowed for about an hour with no shutdowns. Thats good but now I'm wondering why it was shutting down before when all I did was replace a fuse?

 
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04-21-08, 10:52 PM   #17  
I don't see how the fuse would cause it to die in 20 minutes versus not dying at all. I'd almost wager that the dying problem still exists, and just hasn't occurred again...yet.


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04-22-08, 11:20 AM   #18  
Maybe the 20-minute problem is related to the fuel filter, fuel lines, or dirt in the tank. Maybe crud is building up on the filter screen and clogging it after 20 minutes and then falls off and settles back into the fuel line and/or tank when the engine stops?

When an engine doesn't run it's usually spark or fuel. Next time it quits after 20 minutes, remove a spark plug, plug it back into the spark plug wire, ground it on the engine and crank it over.....do you get spark? I'm guessing you will get spark but it's the easiest thing to check immediately after the engine dies and if you do get spark then you can eliminate that system and move on to the fuel system.

 
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04-24-08, 07:00 AM   #19  
Lt1000 still running good

No problems as of yet, drove it about a mile and back to the country store and filled it with gas... thanks for your help everyone

 
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04-25-08, 12:00 AM   #20  
Well, that's good news! Don't know why it was shutting down with the bad fuse, but I guess it's fixed anyway.


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