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2130 Cub Cadet transmission problem


tinkerer2's Avatar
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04-29-08, 12:12 PM   #1  
2130 Cub Cadet transmission problem

I have a cub cadet 2130, which has a hydro-static clutch. My problem is there is no reverse in 3rd and 4th gears. Forward works in all six gears and reverse works in the other 4 gears. I rebuilt the clutch three years ago, and repaired the transmission at the same time. This just started and I took the transmission apart, but there is nothing I can find. I even asked a dealer about a possible cause and they were confused also. Just wonder if anyone had a similar problem.

 
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04-29-08, 11:55 PM   #2  
Can you post the model# of your mower? I don't even know what you're referring to as a hydro-static clutch, unless there is something on this mower I haven't seen before. It sounds like you're talking about a variadrive.


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04-30-08, 06:42 PM   #3  
Model # 2130

Cheese:
The model # is 2130. The clutch is hydraulic, pressure to internal plates running in Hytran make the pinion gear turn clockwise or counter clockwise, depending on which peddle you push, forward or backward. The transmission is a 6 speed gear driven by the pinion gear from the hydraulic clutch.

 
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04-30-08, 06:49 PM   #4  
Cheese, here's the link to the breakdown of the machine... http://cubcadet.arinet.com/scripts/E...&loginpwd=test

Type in "2130" and I chose the higher serial numbers for checking's sake. I've worked on these shaft-drive units but never been into the tranny on them. Looking at it, it's different and I'm unsure how reverse is obtained, see what you think.
Tinkerer2, hang in there and we'll see what we can do for you.

 
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04-30-08, 10:58 PM   #5  
Ok, I usually expect to see the usual long model# when dealing with Cub cadets. This one has taken me off guard.

I haven't worked on one of these before, or at least not on the tranny. I looked at the tranny and clutch diagrams, and I don't think the clutch is causing your issue here. I think if you don't have any broken/missing teeth on the gears, then the shift keys (part #47) are not locking the gears to the shaft. The inside diameter of gears #30 and #31 should have notches. These notches are where the shift keys lock in place. (the rest of the gears in that group will also have the notches, but #30 and 31 are the ones you're having trouble with). Sometimes the edges of the keys wear enough to let the gear slip instead of locking in place, and also the inside notches wear at an angle which only compounds the problem. This is the same gear selecting process used in most other lawn and garden tractor transmissions, so that's where my knowledge of the system comes from. I'm sure the same wear factors and patterns can show up in this tranny too.

I hope that at least helps a little.


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05-01-08, 09:30 AM   #6  
I'm going to have to side with cheese on the inside wear on the gears, Should you replace the gears replace the shift keys as well.


Good Luck

 
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05-01-08, 01:50 PM   #7  
Been there, done that.

I hate to pop your bubble, but I've had it apart twice. Replaced the forks the first time. No notable wear in any of the gears. That's why I'm stumped.

 
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05-01-08, 04:55 PM   #8  
I don't think Cheese & 31ytech are talking about shift forks, I think the mean the keys that are between the gears & the countershaft, (am I right guys??) This means you will have to take the whole gear stack apart to inspect the inside of the gears & the outside of the keys, as well as the springs under the keys, if you have them... Let us know if this is what you are talking about as "shift forks"..Roger

 
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05-01-08, 05:04 PM   #9  
That's right Roger.....


Think about it;

You have two shift keys that slide in the shaft groove and the ears on these keys enter slots in the center of each gear. As these ears enter the selected gear the keys engage in this slot and drives this gear.

You state to have all gears working in forward and in reverse no 3rd and 4th which are the most widely used gears in a trans-axle.

Unless I've missed something I still have to say there's got to be a problem with the gears.....




Last edited by 31YTech; 05-01-08 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Add Pic
 
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05-02-08, 01:53 AM   #10  
Exactly, the parts highlighted (the ones I mentioned in my first post) are the ones I believe to be bad. Look at the notches on the inside diameter of the gears. This is where the wear will show up. As far as I can see, this is the ONLY reason 3rd and 4th gear could mess up without any other failures in any other gears or obvious visible damage like missing teeth (which you have already ruled out). 3rd and 4th are the first to go because they are the ones with the most wear on the catch on the inside, because they are the most commonly used gears Like 31yrtech noted. Usually if the gear is worn enough to let the key slip, then the keys are usually worn over the top and sides enough that they need replacement too.

I didn't have a "bubble" thing going on to "pop". Just trying to help you out.


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05-05-08, 04:38 AM   #11  
Appreciate the feedback

Don't get me wrong I do appreciate the feedback. I know the parts and the direction your coming from, but there is no signs of wear like that on the 3rd and 4th gears or the shift keys. I just wanted to make it good before I sold it. When I bought it 4 years ago at an auction for $450 it wouldn't even move. I rebuilt the clutch and then found out I also had a transmission problem. I had to replace the shift key spring and I replaced the shift keys while I had it apart. I had about $200 in parts and had it 4 years and sold it yesterday for $400. End of story. Thanks for the input.

 
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05-05-08, 11:12 PM   #12  
Well, that's one way to not have to deal with it, LOL! . Sometimes it's best to get out from under a project while you still can I guess. Thanks for the update.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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