cadet 71 timing? or valves ?
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cadet 71 timing? or valves ?
i have a cub cadet 71,.. 7 hp kohler, i got from my uncle, he couldnt get it running, it is puffing back through the carb,.he said it was the intake valve, i have taken the head off, and the intake valve looked good to me?,.it opens and closes and spins at the top,..sprayed it down with carb cleaner,i wire brushed all of the carbon from around the valves and piston,the exhaust valve looks a little wore but it functions also.i put it back together, and sprayed a little starting fluid into the sparkplug hole and turned it over, it cranked then it fired and sent one little puf of smoke out the muffler, but acted like it sent the motor backwards when it fired? is it possible that it has a sheared key? is my points not set right? or is it ready for valve replacement? thanks for your time,..cheezymoto
Last edited by cheezymoto; 04-30-08 at 06:19 PM. Reason: spelling
#3
If it hasn't been done a few years, treat your Kohler to a new set of points and condenser. And carefully set the points to the proper gap. Going by memory, I think it's around .018" at top dead center.
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thanks joe, that was going to be my next plan of attack, i scuft up the points that were in it and set them at .018, found a condenser laying around,it was for a briggs,...still the same result,..so im doing what you suggested,..and probably a coil also,..thanks guys i'll let ya know, but it's sure got me puzzeled right now, not that familiar with points and such,...cheezymoto
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I would perform a leakdown test before I expended any more energy and money. If you are not familiar with it do a web search for "leakdown test". You will find all the details including how to make a tester.
#8
There's no solid state ignition for this engine to my knowledge.
To set the points, turn the engine so that the points are at their maximum opening. Use a .020" feeler guage between the points. It should fit without making the points move, but fit snugly. If it doesn't, loosen the top mounting screw and move the points base until the gap is correct, and re-tighten.
To set the points, turn the engine so that the points are at their maximum opening. Use a .020" feeler guage between the points. It should fit without making the points move, but fit snugly. If it doesn't, loosen the top mounting screw and move the points base until the gap is correct, and re-tighten.
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ok, i've set the points to a couple of different settings to no avail,i pulled the head and made sure i was tdc measured the push rod it is 1.558,.. i am still having kickback,..anything else i should check? thanks for your help
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You haven't posted your engine's model or spec number so, for now, i'll assume it is a K161 model. It doesn't appear you have checked the valve clearances (intake-.006-.008"; exhaust-.017-.019") or replaced the points and condensor with new Kohler parts. I suggest doing both. While it's possible to have sheared the flywheel (timing) key it's rather unlikely unless you have removed the flywheel and did not torque the 'wheel nut to specs (85-90 ft. lbs.). Post back with engine numbers!
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I made a lengthy post earlier this morning and now it is not here. I don’t have time to write it again.
Without your model and spec number it is hard to give specifics. A Kohler K161 from my memory had more than one type ignition system used. The model and spec will identify what we are dealing with.
If you do not have a manual get one at the link below:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/index.jsp
Pull the flywheel and eliminate the sheared key question.
Without your model and spec number it is hard to give specifics. A Kohler K161 from my memory had more than one type ignition system used. The model and spec will identify what we are dealing with.
If you do not have a manual get one at the link below:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/index.jsp
Pull the flywheel and eliminate the sheared key question.
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thanks for the reply!! i have since discovered that im not dealing with a 7hp,..as the head bolts line up as a 10 or 12 hp, 9 head bolt pattern it has been painted,and the only numbers i can make out is the serial number (902121). and a number directly below that(46270c)it is a battery ignition,..battey, condensor, coil, breaker points. it sure acts like it has sheard a key,.is this motor keyed for timing,..everything i've read discusses timing the points and using a timing light. if it doesnt run,.then the light is useless. ive read that you cant adjust dwell on kohler,..so i really dont know,..i hate to tear it down for the flywheel key but i will,..it looks labor intensive,as the drive shaft has to be removed, i have a new coil ordered as well as the points and condensor,..so any input or info would be appreciated. thanks again guys for all of your help and advice,..cheezymoto
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There is a K241 with a Spec number of 46270. Take a look at the parts list an service manual and see if that is what it is.
Kick back is an indication of a sheared flywheel key.
Kick back is an indication of a sheared flywheel key.
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thanks for the info airman, i guess i'll start tearing it down tomorrow,.im waiting on parts for it anyway,..it ought to run better than ever when i get done,..thanks to every one for your help, and i'll keep ya posted as to what i find out,..cheezymoto
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well i pulled the motor today, put a new key in,.first key looked good, was not sheared, put it back together. put in a new set of points and condensor. coil should be here tomorrow,..set the points at .020,. still have kick back, i am at a loss, dont know what else to try,.. i did do a pressure test, it looks like about 56lbs? dont know the specs or if this is good or bad ? i guess i'll pull the valves next unless someone has a better idea,..thanks and i'll keep ya posted
#18
Kickback is from it firing too soon. That would be caused by a points problem or the flywheel key (rare on a K series Kohler engine). The only other thing I can think of is slow cranking speed, which would possibly allow kickback since the engine fires just before TDC, and the rotation of the mass might not be fast enough to overcome the ignition.
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well i put the new coil on today,..and set the end gap on the valve clearence, intake to .009 and exhaust to.018 there was no clearence when i started out,..valves were riding on the tappets the whole time.put it back together and still have kick back with no start,..i have set the points to various settings, starting at .018,..and going all the way to .030,..i will pull the valves next and let you know where im at,..any suggestion??,..thanks