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Murray Ride on


CHEV24's Avatar
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04-30-08, 06:24 PM   #1  
Murray Ride on

Hi,
I was doing some searching and came across this forum. I am having a problem with my Murray Model 42572x8a ride on lawn mower.

When I let out the clutch it just stalls, first time I have started it this year and tried it.

I have read other threads and have located the three switches that many refer to, under the seat, clutch switch, and one under the gas tank for the blades.

I checked the switches with a continuity tester and the one under the seat works fine, under the clutch works fine, however the one under the gas tank works kind of backwards backwards?

This is how I checked, there are four electrodes on two of the three switches, the one under the seat just has two like a wall plug in.

I check by touching one electrode of the tester to one end then touch the other electrode to the other side of the switch, at this got continuity, then pushed the button and the continuity tested noise went away(which implied it’s working properly?). The one under the seat and under the clutch worked this way, the one under the gas tank (blades) worked opposite of what I just stated above, kind of.

With the continuity tested I touched one end to the other, nothing, pushed switch in and then got sound? Total opposite. Now the other side of this same switch, touched one end to the other and got sound, pushed button in, sound stopped just like the other two switches operated.

Is this even the correct way of checking if these switches are good or bad? Some help, advice, anything would be appreciated! Thanks

 
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cheese's Avatar
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04-30-08, 11:07 PM   #2  
It sounds like that switch is working properly. It is actually 2 switches in one. One opens when the other closes, like your meter proved it to be. The one for the clutch pedal should work the same.


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05-01-08, 05:21 AM   #3  
Are you postive that the one under the pedal should work like the one under the gas tank ( blade) ( two way). It definitly does not, if that is the case maybe that switch is the problem.

I have never done this before so I don't know the proper way, or what should be two way switches? Thanks for any help with this!

Posted By: cheese It sounds like that switch is working properly. It is actually 2 switches in one. One opens when the other closes, like your meter proved it to be. The one for the clutch pedal should work the same.

 
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05-01-08, 06:55 AM   #4  
You say your engine stalls, not the same as shut off, when you let the clutch out. If you have a spark tester connect it, and see is spark is lost when you let out the clutch. If spark is lost it is most likely one of the safety switches. Use a jumper wire or disconnect switch, as required, to bypass the switch and verify operation.

Seat Switch (Unoccupied) - Normally Closed
Clutch Brake Switch (Pedal Up) - Normally Open
PTO Switch (Disengaged) - Normally Open

If you need the wiring diagram PM me and give me an email address and I will send it to you.

Good luck

 
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05-01-08, 09:54 AM   #5  
I'm not looking at a diagram, but generally the clutch switch will close the kill wire circuit when released, but open the solenoid trigger circuit when released. The kill wire circuit would then go to the seat switch, and stop there if you are on the seat, or travel to ground and stop the engine if no-one is on the seat.


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05-01-08, 06:32 PM   #6  
Thanks CHeese, Airman thanks for the diagram. I looked at it and confirmed that all three switches seem to be working properly.

Is there anything else I an check?

Again the issue, Start the engine up, engine runs fine. Release the clutch and the motor stalls. If I rev it really high and drop the clutch the mower will move slightly. Thanks!

 
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05-02-08, 01:40 AM   #7  
Check the operation of the seat switch from the backside of the connector while the connector is plugged onto the switch. If you get continuity in both positions while the clutch pedal is locked down, then the micro switch in the connector itself (if equipped) is shorting, usually because it is not pushed tight enough to the seat switch. If yours has the micro switch in the connector, you will see a bump between the 2 connectors on the seat switch, and a tiny plunger that presses in between the terminals on the connector.


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05-02-08, 06:30 AM   #8  
You say engine stalls. You need to know if spark is lost when you release the clutch. Spark testers are inexpensive and can be purchased at most auto parts stores.

If spark is lost when you release the clutch, this is indicative of a faulty safety switch. Temporarily bypassing safety switches is easy.

If spark were not lost, I would first look at the carburetor and second valve adjustment.

 
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05-05-08, 06:00 AM   #9  
Ok, Thanks, I will try this today after work. How do I temporarily bypass a safety switch?

Someone once mentioned to user a paperclip?

 
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05-05-08, 11:10 PM   #10  
Years ago it was easy to bypass safety switches. Now it's not as easy. As you can see, the clutch and blade switches have multiple functions, and then the seat switch can't be bypassed without clipping or disconnecting one of the wires to it if it has the internal micro-switch in the connector.


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05-06-08, 05:37 AM   #11  
In trying to help someone with a tractor problem in a different posting, I assumed basic troubleshooting principles had been applied when they had not.

Backing up here let me ask if the engine in this mower is a twin cylinder. Did you test ignition spark to see if the coil quits firing when deck is engaged? If you have a twin cylinder, you need to test ignition on both cylinders at time of failure. Were new spark plugs installed? If not replace the plug(s).

Some manufactures sell jumper kits to their dealers. AYP, now Husqvarna, sells a 150834 Jumper Diagnosis Kit for use on their equipment. It will work on most others also. You can fabricate jumpers from various items to fit the switch situation. I use single strands of 10 and 12 gauge wires and flatten the ends to jump female blade type connectors. I sometimes jump switches by disconnecting the connector, penetrating the wire with a safety pin and connect an alligator clip to the pin to bypass the switch. Cheese is correct there are some switches that are next to impossible to jump because of the way manufactured. I do not think you will have this problem on your Murray.

Disconnect the seat switch and jump the others.

In answer to your PM, the battery has no effect on your problem.

 
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05-09-08, 05:26 AM   #12  
Thanks for all the help guys, yes it is a twin cycle. I bought a spark tester and verified that I had good spark.

Yesterday, when I had the time I took the seat switch out, made sure it was clean, and had good connections(again). Also the clutch switch ( again). Did not touch the blade switch since this was already verified twice.

Cranked the mower up, put the blades on, no problems there.

Tried it one more time and released the clutch with no issues, mowed my lawn yesterday for a test and all was good. (no more push mower )

So, just like computers (my profession) check physical connection first!

This is the only thing i can think of, the switches may have gotten loose to begin with, and when I checked then and then reinstalled them it's possible I didn't make good connection with one of them? It's good though.,

It made me learn my mower, remove and clean the carb witch needed it! Thanks for everyone’s help!

 
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