husqvarna 281 rebuild help
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husqvarna 281 rebuild help
I am putting together a 281 xp saw.A couple problems when I went to run it for the 1st time.The oiler saturates the bar and saw and is set on 2.the bar length is 28 inch.when shut off saw leaks oil.Also hard to start.add fuel to carb then will start but will have extremely high idle if you would call idle(more like mid range)chain spinning fast.Tried to adjust throttle stop down and low/high screws but no change.any suggestions (other than ditch the saw)
#2
Might be best if we go to the beginning, and find out what was wrong with it to require a rebuild, and what was done during the rebuild. It sounds to me like it could have an air leak into the crankcase among other things.
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I got saw as a project to put together.Took saw down to crankcase and cleaned.compression was about 130.I did not replace crank seals as the looked fine.I purchased missing pieces on ebay to complete saw.Has new fuel line,new coil,new spark plug.Pickup gap set at .012,plug at .020.
Could i pressurize crankcase thru spark plug hole to check leakage(I am auto mechanic with minimal 2 stroke rebuild experience)Also , the oiler settings,1-4, which is highest setting?thanks
Could i pressurize crankcase thru spark plug hole to check leakage(I am auto mechanic with minimal 2 stroke rebuild experience)Also , the oiler settings,1-4, which is highest setting?thanks
#4
I believe 4 is the highest setting. It might be working properly (remember, it has a long chain and bar to lube, and if it's running fast, it's pumping fast too, since normally fast rpm means you're cutting wood). Once you figure out the idle problem, the oiler problem may go away. It is common for oilers to leak when the saw is not in use.
You can't really perform a pressure test like that on a 2-stroke. The piston will go down and the air will go out the exhaust and carb.
Do another close check of the crank seals, cylinder gasket, carb mounting boot, and crankcase cover seal. It sure sounds to me like air is getting in somewhere.
If you can't find a leak, take the chain off, then with the saw running, spray some carb cleaner around areas where air could enter the crankcase. When you hit the area of the leak, the engine rpm should change noticeably.
You can't really perform a pressure test like that on a 2-stroke. The piston will go down and the air will go out the exhaust and carb.
Do another close check of the crank seals, cylinder gasket, carb mounting boot, and crankcase cover seal. It sure sounds to me like air is getting in somewhere.
If you can't find a leak, take the chain off, then with the saw running, spray some carb cleaner around areas where air could enter the crankcase. When you hit the area of the leak, the engine rpm should change noticeably.
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I believe 4 is the highest setting. It might be working properly (remember, it has a long chain and bar to lube, and if it's running fast, it's pumping fast too, since normally fast rpm means you're cutting wood). Once you figure out the idle problem, the oiler problem may go away. It is common for oilers to leak when the saw is not in use.
You can't really perform a pressure test like that on a 2-stroke. The piston will go down and the air will go out the exhaust and carb.
Do another close check of the crank seals, cylinder gasket, carb mounting boot, and crankcase cover seal. It sure sounds to me like air is getting in somewhere.
If you can't find a leak, take the chain off, then with the saw running, spray some carb cleaner around areas where air could enter the crankcase. When you hit the area of the leak, the engine rpm should change noticeably.
You can't really perform a pressure test like that on a 2-stroke. The piston will go down and the air will go out the exhaust and carb.
Do another close check of the crank seals, cylinder gasket, carb mounting boot, and crankcase cover seal. It sure sounds to me like air is getting in somewhere.
If you can't find a leak, take the chain off, then with the saw running, spray some carb cleaner around areas where air could enter the crankcase. When you hit the area of the leak, the engine rpm should change noticeably.