B&S electronic ignition conversion
#1
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B&S electronic ignition conversion
Hello all:
I am replacing the original armature on an old B&S 190402 engine with a Stens aftermarket electronic unit.
The Stens unit has two small black wires (unmarked) coming out of the coil. I assume one is a ground and one is for the kill switch?
This engine does not have a kill switch - just the little metal flip lever that grounds the spark plug.
Can someone please tell me what to do with the two small wires?
Thanks much!
HerbH
I am replacing the original armature on an old B&S 190402 engine with a Stens aftermarket electronic unit.
The Stens unit has two small black wires (unmarked) coming out of the coil. I assume one is a ground and one is for the kill switch?
This engine does not have a kill switch - just the little metal flip lever that grounds the spark plug.
Can someone please tell me what to do with the two small wires?
Thanks much!
HerbH
#2
Herb,
Can you post the Stens part number so we can see which module you have ?
If I had to guess one wire goes to ground and the other to the points wire leading to the coil, If still no spark reverse the wires.
Can you post the Stens part number so we can see which module you have ?
If I had to guess one wire goes to ground and the other to the points wire leading to the coil, If still no spark reverse the wires.
#3
Not knowing what your actual problem is, thought I'd add I fixed my neighbors B&S lawn mower engine today. He said it would start only sometimes, and other times up and quit.
I got no spark when grounding the plug (take out) to shiny metal. Yet, I never completely trust that test in day light - as after he cranked it after I inspected a good plug, the thing almost started, and I was wondering how that could be when I saw absolutely no spark before. So I felt it and I could feel the zap through the rubber at the boot.
After making sure the kill switch cable was not out of adjustment, preventing the safety bar from disengaging it - I took off the pull start cover and found the coil out from the magnet about 3/16 inch. Readjusted it, and to everyones pleasure she fired right off and ran smooth in 3 back to back to back start-run attempts.
I had also checked air filter, gas tank and compression with finger over open plug hole = all good enough for it to start. Asked him if he hit buried pipe or ? to bend shear key and he said no.
Something to look for, as those coils have 2 slotted out holes that can be adjusted. His machine also said it had "electronic ignition", and this is what was wrong with his.
All this mentioned took about 1/2 hour, including me getting out of my supply of o-rings and put in new o-ring for oil tube, as oil started to pump out of the base at crank-up like an arterial bleed. Neighbors gathered around, watching. Made his day, and mine too.
I got no spark when grounding the plug (take out) to shiny metal. Yet, I never completely trust that test in day light - as after he cranked it after I inspected a good plug, the thing almost started, and I was wondering how that could be when I saw absolutely no spark before. So I felt it and I could feel the zap through the rubber at the boot.
After making sure the kill switch cable was not out of adjustment, preventing the safety bar from disengaging it - I took off the pull start cover and found the coil out from the magnet about 3/16 inch. Readjusted it, and to everyones pleasure she fired right off and ran smooth in 3 back to back to back start-run attempts.
I had also checked air filter, gas tank and compression with finger over open plug hole = all good enough for it to start. Asked him if he hit buried pipe or ? to bend shear key and he said no.
Something to look for, as those coils have 2 slotted out holes that can be adjusted. His machine also said it had "electronic ignition", and this is what was wrong with his.
All this mentioned took about 1/2 hour, including me getting out of my supply of o-rings and put in new o-ring for oil tube, as oil started to pump out of the base at crank-up like an arterial bleed. Neighbors gathered around, watching. Made his day, and mine too.
#4
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Stens 460006
Thanks for the replies!
I think the electronic module is Stens #460006. There should not be any wire to the points, which are no longer necessary.
I've tried grounding either wire, and leaving the other free, but have not gotten a spark yet.
An ohmmeter reads about 2 ohms between the two wires, so they are making a circuit inside the coil.
Any ideas?
HerbH
I think the electronic module is Stens #460006. There should not be any wire to the points, which are no longer necessary.
I've tried grounding either wire, and leaving the other free, but have not gotten a spark yet.
An ohmmeter reads about 2 ohms between the two wires, so they are making a circuit inside the coil.
Any ideas?
HerbH
#5
You've got the wrong coil if you don't want to use points anymore. That coil requires the use of points. I never have good luck with aftermarket coils anyway. They often are bad out of the box, or not long afterwards.
#6
As cheese posted you have the wrong coil/module, You need to take it back and get Briggs part #398811.....
I was under the impression you bought a "bug" to take the place of the points.
I was under the impression you bought a "bug" to take the place of the points.