RER Snapper boot replacement

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  #1  
Old 05-12-08, 05:19 AM
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RER Snapper boot replacement

I recently raised my RER, to sharpen the blade, and noticed the boots on the axles were torn/split/cracked. I loosened the clamps holding them and rotated them 180 degree's. As the boots were not torn on the bottom sides. I know this is not the solution, but I felt it would be better than dirt falling in from the top and collecting in the boot, this way maybe the dirt not be as damaging.
I inspected the dismantling of the axle, to replace them, but since I have never done this, I need help.
Start to finish would be nice.
Thanks,
James
 
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  #2  
Old 05-13-08, 12:17 AM
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Take off the mowers' left wheel, and the hub (can be difficult to remove sometimes). Then remove the entire fender asembly. If it has a bearing at the axle, there will be a lock collar you must loosen and turn to free the bearing from the axle. Some only have bushings here instead of bearings. The ones with bushings just slide off. Then, remove the short shifter link from the small chaincase and disconnect the brake and clutch cable, and loosen the boot clamps. Slip the long boot off, then the thrust washers at the end of the hex tube, noting their order of removal. Then slide the small chaincase off the axle. Slide the short boot off, install new boot,tighten clamps, then re-assemble in reverse order. Make sure to fill both cases with "00" grease, and put some on the axles under the boots too. Replace the bushing in the fender if necessary, and the axle seals at the end of the axles if necessary.
 
  #3  
Old 05-15-08, 04:20 PM
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Thumbs up This will help, me greatly!

This info. will help me greatly. I plan to do the repair this week end. Will let you know how it goes.
 
  #4  
Old 05-25-08, 09:30 AM
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Great instructions

Finally got around to replacing the boots. It went smooth. will definitely rely on this site, from here on.
Thanks,
James
 
  #5  
Old 05-26-08, 12:07 AM
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Great! Glad we could help!
 
  #6  
Old 05-02-09, 09:10 AM
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1st step problem with boot repair

I have the entire rear end off and cannot get the left hub off the axle shaft. I removed the nut and "wedge key" bolt first. I have tried pressing it, hammering it, heating it with a ox/acty torch and it will not come off!!! the right side came off text book.
I am pretty handy but right now I feel like !

Any tips to solve such a simple thing would be greatly appreciated.

Brent
 
  #7  
Old 05-02-09, 06:58 PM
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Wow...you don't have to remove the whole rear end, and you don't have to remove the right side. Only the left. You can make a small job a big one if you take both sides apart.

You may need to use an impact hammer to drive it off the axle. In the worst cases, I have had to cut it off...torching the metal of the hub away from the axle. If you aren't good with an oxy-acetylene torch, you might want to let someone who is do this, as you may cut or damage the axle cutting the hub off.
 
  #8  
Old 09-07-10, 06:44 AM
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With my 3314518BVE RER, the tapered bolt that held the hub was the big problem. After PB Blaster, bending a relatively heavy-duty 4" clamp, and no luck with the hammer, I purchased a 3-in-1 Ball Joint/U-Joint/C-Frame Press Service Kit (Item # 38335) from Harbor Freight. I protected 90% of the exposed threads with a long nut and surrounded the non-threaded end by a large thick washer. After severely tightening the massive clamp with a 1/2" drive wrench, the bolt popped loose with the sound of a gunshot.

The hub came off easily using a light-duty 3" three-jaw puller.

To get the small chain case off, I disconnected the Clutch Brake SPRING from the LIFT Yoke bracket, removed the left(mowing)/right(repairing) hinge bolt from the LIFT Yoke bracket, and pulled upward on the axle.
 
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