Is it hard to change crankcase gasket. 8hp b&s

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  #1  
Old 05-12-08, 10:18 AM
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Exclamation Is it hard to change crankcase gasket. 8hp b&s

What I'm asking is it just a matter of cracking the case and cleaning and replacing the gasket. Or will I have to mess with any of the inner mechanicals in order to remove bottom pan ?


I discovered that I have a fairly hefty leak right under the cylinder where the crankcase halves meet, but only on that side under the cylinder the other three sides are fine and dry.


8HP B&S 191702 2139-01 83113010


Thanks
Wayne.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-12-08, 04:25 PM
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Ok I have the engine on the work bench. First thing I notice all the bolts for the crankcase halves are all loose !

I'm wondering if tightening them would do the trick (stop the leak) ?

or

I was also thinking of just splitting the case without removing the pulley and adding some premaflex gasket maker to the effected area (of course this is only good if I can split the case without wreaking the gasket). What do you think of this idea ? And if pro.. should I use hardening or non-hardening gasket maker ? I have both.


Getting the pulley off the crank is something I'm presently not equipped to do here at home. So it's a bit of a roadblock for me. I plan on getting a pulley puller soon tho.


Also one more thing... The seal around the crank shaft. Any considerations I should be aware of. It looks in good shape with no leaking, I should be able to reuse it right ?! According to b&s parts manual special tool required for its removal.


So I'm sure hopin' someone will chime in here with a few words of wisdom..

Cheers
Wayne.
 
  #3  
Old 05-12-08, 08:09 PM
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Wayne,

Since the engine is on your bench go ahead and do the job right, I doubt you will get the sump/pan up without tearing the gasket.

You won't have to mess with anything inside the engine just to replace the gasket and go ahead and replace the crank seal as well, It can be popped out with a screwdriver once the sump/pan is removed.

DON'T use ANY sealer on this new gasket, I give mine a thin coat of spray paint on both sides and install while still tacky. Take a piece of the old gasket with you to get the new one. The gasket thickness determines crankshaft end-play. Too thin can bind the engine too thick can cause a rattle, There are 3 different thickness gaskets.

As for the crank pulley removal, Just run the engine by your local repair shop and they should have the proper tools to remove it and shouldn't charge that much.

Also, Spray carb & choke cleaner in the sump/pan screw threads in the block to remove any oil then apply loctite to the screws, Torque starting with 70 in. lbs. in a criss-cross pattern then finish torque to 140 in. lbs......

I believe that covers everything, If I missed something just shout back.

Good Luck
 
  #4  
Old 05-13-08, 03:28 PM
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Hi again Tech and thank you for the information you have provided !

I got the pulley off actually quite easy and within seconds of getting the bolt off, the bolt was another story. But I eventually put some heat on it and with a couple taps of the hammer it was free ! (I held the shaft under the pulley to keep tabs on the heat)

Your right about getting the old gasket out in one piece. No way that would happen. I did find the cause of my leak. The gasket was completely missing on that side of the block (under cylinder head)! Disintegrated maybe ?


I did have a couple more questions for you Tech. or anyone else who might have the answers..

#1

The governor fell out of place and I repositioned it back on the gear with the end piece behind the arm (paddle shaped). Is this right !? Dose it just sit there ? Will move when I reassemble the crankcase ?


#2

I've noticed since I have had the case open That there is a bit of dust being picked up by the oil film in the case. I'm trying my best to keep things as clean as possible.

What's the best way to clean this ? Should I just do a oil change after the first 5 or 10 mins of runtime ?


Thanks again
Wayne.
 
  #5  
Old 05-13-08, 05:10 PM
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Ok Wayne,

The governor just sits over the camshaft as below;




Notice the engine sitting upside down on the flywheel, This will aid in keeping the governor from moving while the sump/pan is installed. There is a boss in the sump/pan that helps hold the governor in place.

As for cleaning the engine, You can go to your local hardware store and get a gallon of mineral spirits and a small paint brush. Drain all the oil out of the engine you can then flip it back upside down, Pour a cup or so mineral spirits inside then clean it with the brush.

Dump the dirty M.S. in a bucket, Do this a couple times then blow the engine out (I assume you have a small compressor since you had a torch) if not stand the engine on it's front side and let drain then wipe it out with a lint free rag.

Do the same with the sump/pan before installing the new seal, When dry install the seal then spray the gasket and install it on the engine block. Pour a quart of oil into the engine over the cam/governor and connecting rod then slide the sump/pan in place carefully then install the screws as mentioned.

Oh, While doing all this cleaning and flipping make sure the camshaft does not fall out of the engine, If it does the valve tappets will fall out. This could throw the valve and timing specs. out If the tappets are re-installed in the wrong galley.


Cya
 
  #6  
Old 05-15-08, 06:17 PM
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Hi again Tech and thank you kindly (again) for the info you've provided !

I have it all back together just haven't started it yet, still cleaning the carb and painting the tractor.

Cheers
Wayne.
 
  #7  
Old 05-15-08, 07:27 PM
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No problem Wayne, Hope it runs just fine for ya....
 
  #8  
Old 05-19-08, 04:12 PM
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Well I finally got her back together and mowed the lawn today.

Boy is she ever smooth ! Carb. is operating flawlessly.


And so far no oil leaking from crankcase gasket.


YooHoo ! I'm a happy camper.

Thanks again Tech for your input... Your da man !

Cheers
Wayne.
 
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