Main seal replacement for Honda gen(ES6500).

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  #1  
Old 05-22-08, 07:34 PM
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Exclamation Main seal replacement for Honda gen(ES6500).

I'm probably wasting my time trying to get this
info here but i am desperate so I will give it a go.

I have a Honda generator (ES6500) that leaks oil
really bad from where the motor and the gen. housing
connect. I can only assume that it is probably the
main or crank case seal, or the oil pump seal that
is the culprit here. I started to remove the gen.
housing from the engine but can not get it to budge
at all. Can anyone on here describe the process for
doing this. I really don't have the funds to take it to
a honda service shop or I would have allready done
so. I am in dire need of help on this repair.
thanks very much
 
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  #2  
Old 05-23-08, 12:01 AM
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I'm trying to figure out if the comment about wasting your time here and being desperate is meant as an insult to us??? My abilities and the abilities of most of the techs on this site go well beyond that which are required to repair your generator.

I have not looked up your unit yet, but generally you must remove the back end of the housing to access the bolt that holds the rotor tight to the crankshaft. Remove this bolt, then remove the field windings. Then use a block of wood to rap the side of the rotor enough to bump the swedge fit loose at the tapered crankshaft, but not so hard that you bend or damage anything. This should give you access to the front end of the housing and the bolts that hold it in place. You can remove it to gain access to the pump cover and crankshaft seal.

I believe these instructions should be enough to accomplish the task, but if they are not specific enough, I'll see if I can look up a diagram of your unit and give more detailed instruction. (I believe I have, or have access to, diagrams for many honda generators).
 
  #3  
Old 06-12-08, 03:45 AM
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Question

Well first off, I'd like to thank you for your reply.
After posting my question on several different
tech forums, your reply is the first one that I
have received so far, so I am grateful of it.
I apologize for sounding pessimistic in the beginning
of my original post. I did not mean any disrespect
whatsoever. It's just that I had noticed
that a similar question was posted on this site in
2007 and had not received a single reply so I
thought that maybe mine wouldn't either.
Anyhow no worries, but I do have another question
in regards to the very useful information you did
provide in your reply. And the question is: how
do I put the thing back together after I replace
the main seal(or whatever it is that is causing it
to loose oil in that spot)? The method you described
sounds a bit tricky. Will the reverse procedure be
any less difficult?
Thanks a bunch in advance!
Dave.
 
  #4  
Old 06-12-08, 05:56 AM
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dsyn8,

Check your private messages
 
  #5  
Old 06-13-08, 01:02 AM
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Got a digital camera? Take pictures of everything you are going to remove or take apart befoe you do. Take pics of wiring connections at the field, capacitor(s), and everything else you disconnect, so you can see what color wire goes where when you put it back together. Scratch or draw a mark on each piece at the top so you know which way is up on each end piece and the field. It shouldn't be that bad of a job as long as you note which way everything was so that you get it back together that way. I have limited info about that particular setup, but it appears to be very much like what I described in my initial post. You might be ahead to remove the radiator to gain better access and not have to worry about damaging it....looks like it's kinda in the way.
 
  #6  
Old 06-13-08, 08:47 PM
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so i got the main and rear housing removed
and gained access to the oil pump cover plate.
got it off and the o-ring or seal is on the back
side of it. It looks OK but it is a bit hard and
i'm sure it needs to be replaced. Would it be
advisable to use some gasket maker to make
it seal up properly and not leak anymore? Or
do I have to try and find an exact replacement
o-ring from Honda? I want to use this genny
for a camping trip next week so I don't really
have the time to wait for any mail order parts
to arrive.
 
  #7  
Old 06-13-08, 10:06 PM
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If I had to make it work without the proper part, I'd probably use permatex black RTV silicone to seal it up. A new gasket or o-ring would be preferred. If this o-ring is a normal o-ring, most automotive shops and hardware stores carry them. They may not have one big enough, but it's worth a check, especially if you have to make a trip to one anyway for the silicone.
 
  #8  
Old 03-01-12, 10:18 PM
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just now getting back to this old thread but I wanted to report back
on the progress of Honda ES 6500. Well after some time had passed
and the thing just sitting there in my workshop half taken apart, I
finally went ahead and ordered a complete OEM gasket set for the
pump from a Honda dealer. After I procrastinated for a while longer
I finally installed all of the new seals and rebuilt the thing. when it
was all said and done the only thing I couldn't account for were a
couple of bolts for the battery compartment. It fired right up but
kept stalling due to a clog in the fuel tank. Once I cleared that up
it ran like a champ for a week straight out on the desert sands
at Slab City, Ca. Thanks to Cheese and Airman for the helpful
advice. Final outcome - SUCCESS!!
 
  #9  
Old 03-01-12, 10:27 PM
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Wow, a blast from the past! Thanks for the update!

Slab City... an interesting place for sure. I'd like to visit one day, but the wife doesn't share my interest, lol. Glad it worked though!
 
  #10  
Old 01-20-14, 02:53 PM
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Can't get generator off Honda ES6500

I removed all the bolts, internal and external that hold the generator to the flywheel, including the main center bolt, but the generator will not separate from the motor/flywheel housing. Any ideas? More hammer?

Thanks
 
  #11  
Old 01-20-14, 05:10 PM
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On the generators I've taken apart, I used a heavy block of wood like a piece of 4X4 and knocked the rotor to the side sharply. Not so hard that you can bend the crank or ruin something, but enough to give it a shock and release the friction grip is has on the tapered crankshaft.
 
  #12  
Old 02-17-14, 11:39 AM
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Greetings everyone! This is my first post...but I have done a lot of reading on this site. Looks like a great place with a lot of very knowledgeable people.

I did not want to start another thread since this one already addresses the problem with my ES6500. It also has the mystery oil leak from the generator end of the engine. I have the Shop Manual and I have looked at the parts that are suspect...including the o-ring as mentioned earlier. My question is about the main crank seal. Can this be removed without splitting the case? It is not real clear in the manual.

I've never worked on a Honda engine of this type...so I am not sure what is common to these small engines. I am hoping (if it is the seal that is bad) that it is a pop-out and press-in seal!

Thanks in advance for the help and kudos to the moderators for maintaining a user and member friendly forum!
 
  #13  
Old 02-24-14, 09:01 AM
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BUMP...

Just bumping my previous post. I'm still needing some input. Info would be appreciated! Thanks!
 
  #14  
Old 02-24-14, 10:09 AM
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I believe the seal can be pulled with very careful use of a seal puller. Take extreme care not to scratch the crankshaft. I know it's iron, but it's softer than you'd think and if you scratch it, it will not seal against the new seal. I sometimes use a slide hammer with a thin screw in it and I poke a hole in the seal away from the crankshaft and thread the screw into the hole and knock the seal out.
 
  #15  
Old 02-24-14, 10:18 AM
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Cheese,
Thanks for the prompt and informative reply. I have several different seal pullers. However, I hadn't thought about using a slide hammer! ...I'm sure I have one buried in the shop somewhere.

At this point it sounds like getting the rotor to turn loose from the crank may be the hardest part of this project. I read with interest your comments on wacking the rotor with a piece of wood to make it release. Are you talking about where it couples or at the far end of the rotor shaft?

Thanks again!
 
  #16  
Old 02-24-14, 09:59 PM
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Usually a sharp blow at the far end will knock it loose. Make it a blow that doesn't follow through if you know what I mean. Try to shock it loose, not knock it sideways, otherwise, you may bend something.
 
  #17  
Old 02-25-14, 04:47 AM
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Cheese,
Thanks for the tip. I understand about the sharp blow...with no carry-through. Appreciated!
 
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