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Toro Belt Replacement


WML13's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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06-21-08, 12:55 PM   #1  
Toro Belt Replacement

I had a thread going a few days ago concerning the above. "Cheese" replied and told me to drop the clutch. I could not get the clutch free with PB Blaster and with enough tension with a puller, but not too much. I didnt bend anything. Taking my time, I figured out a way to change the belts without removing the clutch, and changed them. This model Toro (HMR1600) Mod number 55620 serial number 900000 and up, was only made one year, and now that it can move itself, I have some other issues I would like to fix. When I engage the electric clutch, it turns on deck, but at times the blades will slow down, especially when climbing a hill. Now that I have been nudging it, trying to remove it from the engine output shaft, it likes to change speed (deck slows down) for no reason, flat ground, moving the height adjustment lever will change the speed also. What adjustments can be made to this clutch, besides the .015 feeler gauge adjustment between the clutch facing and plate?
Can this be cleaned with brake parts cleaner?

 
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06-22-08, 12:52 AM   #2  
Hello again,

Glad you got it even though the clutch wouldn't budge. I just had a battle with a stubborn clutch thursday. Sometimes they fight you all the way, but most times they just slip off.

I think the problem is more likely to be a belt issue in your case. The clutch by design is pretty much ether on or off, and no in between. If it ever slips much to speak of, it fails entirely pretty quickly because of the extreme heat caused by the slippage/friction. It's a metal on metal clutch, so heat builds up instantly when it slips.

Look for a loose belt from the clutch to the deck, or from balde to blade. I'm thinking one of the belts is taught, but not tight.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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06-22-08, 05:41 AM   #3  
Toro Belt Replacement

Well, thats good to hear so to speak about the clutch I guess. On the one that battled you all the way, what did you do to remove it without destroying it? At some point (like next winter) I need to re ring this engine and the clutch will HAVE to come out then.
The blade belt has a spring loaded tightener, but main belt has some adjustment springs that can be tightened up manualy. I didnt think of that. Are you familiar with "Interactive steering"?
I looked closely at that when I was changing the transmission belts, and adjusted the nuts on the rods so the rods and belts were not sloppy tension wise, but I have no reference source for the adjustment of those (Toro Service Manual?) The mower itself is transporting itself fine now.
Thank you for your advice!

 
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06-23-08, 12:39 AM   #4  
I used leverage on either side of the clutch and some persuading hits with a hammer in the downward direction and dousing it with penetrating oil. It finally moved a little bit, so then I knocked it back up on the crankshaft and continued to drive it up, then back down, progressively more each time until it came off.

I've only had to destroy one to get it off.

I'm not familiar with the term "interactive steering". Is that a toro trademark system or something?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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06-23-08, 05:12 AM   #5  
Toro Belt Replacement

First of all, I have to give you credit for the belt tension suggestion on the issue I had with the blades slowing down. The belt tension from the clutch to the deck was way off. Tightened it up and I was in business again.
It looks like I will have to do the hammer thing on the clutch when the time comes too.
"interactive steering may have only been used one or two years, but it consists of a series of 2 rods that hook to the bottom of the steering tube, hook to a link about half way back under the mower, and hook to two more rods there that then go the rest of the way back and drop into a plate with curved slots. right above the clutch. When you turn the wheel, the rods move and loosen or tighten the idler pulleys that control belt tension on the belts that drive the transmissions. This allows the back drive wheels to differentiate when making almost zero turns. This is one of the rider mowers that could actually do a zero turn, without having The deck out front. If you ever have another question about one, I actually found a manual for it and I have the adjustment specs. for it. You can email me at [email protected] anytime if you get any more questions about this model.

Thanks!


Last edited by WML13; 06-23-08 at 05:14 AM. Reason: additional info
 
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