Briggs 24 CI wont start
#1
Briggs 24 CI wont start
hi All. I have a briggs 243432 type 2561-01 code 90021714 on a heckendorn 36 inch rider. I just bought this from a family member who didn't need it anymore (moving). They said it would only pull start, and I thought well, thats fine, I can do that till I fix the electric start. I did not clarify this though, and when they delivered it to me, I realized that it had no electric start. I said it is supposed to pull start right? they said yes, but they literally pulled it with their truck to start it. Around 200 feet they said. Once started, it ran fine. ok, i learned my lesson about asking enough questions. Now, what I have done.
gas in the cylinder...no go.
known good spark plug(taken from other running motor)..no go
checked for spark...looked bright
changed carb from running motor...no go
pulled kill wire...no go
Once in a while it will backfire or flame out the carb when rope pulling. I have not tried tow starting it. Ok, if it gets gas, and spark, and wont run, whats next? Could it be out of time? If so,wouldn't it run terrible once tow started? Any ideas what to check? Thanks for any help! Mark
gas in the cylinder...no go.
known good spark plug(taken from other running motor)..no go
checked for spark...looked bright
changed carb from running motor...no go
pulled kill wire...no go
Once in a while it will backfire or flame out the carb when rope pulling. I have not tried tow starting it. Ok, if it gets gas, and spark, and wont run, whats next? Could it be out of time? If so,wouldn't it run terrible once tow started? Any ideas what to check? Thanks for any help! Mark
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#2
Hello Tae,
With the engine being nearly 20 years old, it could need valve work. That might explain the 200 feet required to get it running? I've never known any mower to be able to be tow started like that though, but then again, I've never heard of a heckendorn mower. Check compression, then if compression is sufficient, check the flywheel key to be sure it isn't sheared.
With the engine being nearly 20 years old, it could need valve work. That might explain the 200 feet required to get it running? I've never known any mower to be able to be tow started like that though, but then again, I've never heard of a heckendorn mower. Check compression, then if compression is sufficient, check the flywheel key to be sure it isn't sheared.
#3
Thanks for the reply Cheese. Seems like the compression is pretty good, i will look into checking the valves. Also wondering if the ignition coil might be weak? My thoughts are heading more towards buying a new motor. I expect this mower to be around another 20 years! I've never heard of anyone tow starting their mower either, which is why I didn't question it! LOL. live and learn. You can google heckendorn mowers. Some interesting stuff. Here are a couple links I like:
http://web.pitas.com/ssinke/14_03_2006.html
From his second paragraph:"As you can see, this machine is made by Kansans, for Kansans. With it's three wheel design, its kick-up mower deck design, its Model "A" transmission, and its hefty 10hp to 18hp motor, the Heckendorn is a mowing experience. You might get the lawn mowed, or you might die."
http://web.pitas.com/ssinke/14_03_2006.html
http://web.pitas.com/ssinke/14_03_2006.html
From his second paragraph:"As you can see, this machine is made by Kansans, for Kansans. With it's three wheel design, its kick-up mower deck design, its Model "A" transmission, and its hefty 10hp to 18hp motor, the Heckendorn is a mowing experience. You might get the lawn mowed, or you might die."
http://web.pitas.com/ssinke/14_03_2006.html
#4
#5
Holy cow...
That paragraph you quoted is hilarious. Has an element of truth to it though.
I still think the valves would be the place to start checking. I'm thinking the valve clearance is a little tight (on a flathead engine like that, the valve seats farther down in the seat as the seat and valve face wears, so it closes the gap between the lifter and valve stem eventually causing the clearance to be zero).
That paragraph you quoted is hilarious. Has an element of truth to it though.
I still think the valves would be the place to start checking. I'm thinking the valve clearance is a little tight (on a flathead engine like that, the valve seats farther down in the seat as the seat and valve face wears, so it closes the gap between the lifter and valve stem eventually causing the clearance to be zero).
#6
hole in head gasket
Well I pulled the head, and on the left side there was a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap where the head gasket was missing. You think that would keep it from starting?

#7
Yep....sounds like you've found the problem area, lol. That's gotta be why it's not starting...low compression. I guess the tow-starting got the engine going fast enough that it would run in spite of it.
#8
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 298
That 200' pull start beast was going to damage life or property!
My Honda Civic checked good on compression but continued to burn antifreeze, and I could see it was the head gasket once I had it apart. Seems like these multilayered gaskets can fail in several different ways.
My Honda Civic checked good on compression but continued to burn antifreeze, and I could see it was the head gasket once I had it apart. Seems like these multilayered gaskets can fail in several different ways.
#9
That guy was right. wow, what an experience. I love it. New gasket, it fired right up first pull. had to adjust the carb some and new fuel filter and hose, and it runs like a champ. You've never mowed till you've done it with only 3 wheels! Thanks for the help.
#10
Great! Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the update! Put yourself some blocks or something at the front of the deck so your feet don't slide off in front and turn yourself into mulch
. I used an old yard king that was a 3 wheeler once. It was hot with the engine between your legs. What would the ANSI say if they tried to make that stuff nowadays, lol!


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