Air compressor not coming back on automatically.

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  #1  
Old 07-06-08, 08:34 AM
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Air compressor not coming back on automatically.

Hey, I've got a Campell Hausfeld air compressor, model WL505807AJ, and it comes on fine, builds up plenty of pressure, but then after it kicks itself off, it won't come back on when the pressure gets low. In fact, after it turns off, and I use up the remaining pressure, I have to release ALL of the air out before I can get it to even come back on at all. Any idea for a fix?
 
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  #2  
Old 07-06-08, 11:48 AM
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When you say that the remaining pressure must be released before it will restart, does it sound like the motor is trying to restart? It sounds like you have a bad check valve and air is bleeding back into the compressor. The other possiblity is the pressure switch is not resetting after it turns off. My first guess would be the check valve on the tank. If you remove the tube to the compessor either at the check valve or compressor pump and get air blowing, replace the check valve. Most of the check valves get corroded over time and start leaking. Make sure you purge the air tank, drain the water, weekly if not daily. Good Luck
 
  #3  
Old 07-06-08, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CAMINO KID View Post
When you say that the remaining pressure must be released before it will restart, does it sound like the motor is trying to restart? It sounds like you have a bad check valve and air is bleeding back into the compressor. The other possiblity is the pressure switch is not resetting after it turns off. My first guess would be the check valve on the tank. If you remove the tube to the compessor either at the check valve or compressor pump and get air blowing, replace the check valve. Most of the check valves get corroded over time and start leaking. Make sure you purge the air tank, drain the water, weekly if not daily. Good Luck
No, it doesn't sound like it's trying to do anything. It just sits there hissing air. I can pull the release valve and let the air out quicker. I think you might be right about the check valve. I'll look into that.

Thanks.
 
  #4  
Old 07-07-08, 08:53 AM
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So I pulled out the check valve, and it definitely looks corroded. But when I search online, I find Campbell Hausfeld check valves, but they look a little different on the end where the holes are. Will most of them work, or do I have to find the exact part?

For instance, the only ones I can find online look like this:

http://www.amazon.com/CAMPBELL-HAUSF.../dp/B00081FFME

or like this one on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:B:WNA:US:1123

But here is a picture of mine, sorry it's crappy, from my cell phone:
 
  #5  
Old 07-07-08, 10:31 AM
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I think the problem is more likely in the pressure switch. It has two adjustments. One is for the cut-off pressure and the other is for the cut-in pressure. The instructions should be on the inside of the cover.
 
  #6  
Old 07-07-08, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rogerflies View Post
I think the problem is more likely in the pressure switch. It has two adjustments. One is for the cut-off pressure and the other is for the cut-in pressure. The instructions should be on the inside of the cover.
Inside of what cover?

Edit: Oh, you mean the cover of the pressure switch. Thanks. I'll check that out.
 
  #7  
Old 07-07-08, 11:24 AM
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I'm not familiar with CH, and I can't find any info on the model number you gave.

My compressor has a separate switch which has a pressure line going into the bottom and wires into the sides. The cover is held in place with a nut. Your switch may look different, but it's got to have a pressure inlet and wires coing in from the power cord and out to the motor.

Do you have the manual? Can you post a picture of your compressor?
 
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Old 07-07-08, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rogerflies View Post
I'm not familiar with CH, and I can't find any info on the model number you gave.

My compressor has a separate switch which has a pressure line going into the bottom and wires into the sides. The cover is held in place with a nut. Your switch may look different, but it's got to have a pressure inlet and wires coing in from the power cord and out to the motor.

Do you have the manual? Can you post a picture of your compressor?
I had a hard time finding info as well, however I did find some things. I don't have the manual. I picked up the compressor at a pawn shop. But I did find a parts list and a troubleshooting chart. I could try and take apart the pressure switch, as I noticed that one little cable going into it has fallen out of place. So perhaps I'll try that. But I did find one on eBay that's supposed to be compatable that I can buy if I can't fix this one. I don't have pictures yet, but I'll take a few and post them when I get a minute.
 
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Old 07-07-08, 05:48 PM
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Ok, here are a few pics. Hope they're not too huge.




And here is the best pic I could get of the part that looks broken in the pressure switch. At the top part of the switch (the part closest to the yellow tank), you can see a cable coming into the switch, and if you look closely, on the inside, a little pin sticking in kind of crooked. I think when I first opened the switch, the little round piece of plastic (right behind the little pin) was right on the pin. And it's fallen off. And the pin looks bent.



Either way, after taking off the check valve, I cleaned it with sme WD-40, put it back in, and put everything back together, then turned the sucker back on. I watched the pressure very closely. I'm not sure when it kicked off before, but it should be kicking off around 125 psi. It didn't kick off, and at about 130 I pulled the release valve. It blew open and actually stayed open on it's own until it was down to about 30 psi. So now I wonder about the release valve. Anyway, I'm really hoping I haven't screwed it up. I'd like to get it working. Think I ought to pick up a new pressure switch on eBay or something?

Thanks.
 
  #10  
Old 07-07-08, 09:47 PM
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Yeah, the bent pin will keep the unloader valve from working.

The unloader valve is supposed to close when the compressor turns on and open when it's off. That allows the pressure in the line between the pump and the check valve to bleed off, so the pump won't have any pressure on it when the motor starts.

Looks like you need the new pressure switch.

Were there any instructions for adjusting the pressure settings? If not, it's probably not adjustable.
 
  #11  
Old 07-08-08, 03:31 AM
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grainger.com should sell these, i think a few years ago i picked one up for $15. They have local stores too. If its adjustable then you should see screws inside that you back off/tighten.
 
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Old 07-08-08, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by rogerflies View Post
Yeah, the bent pin will keep the unloader valve from working.

The unloader valve is supposed to close when the compressor turns on and open when it's off. That allows the pressure in the line between the pump and the check valve to bleed off, so the pump won't have any pressure on it when the motor starts.

Looks like you need the new pressure switch.

Were there any instructions for adjusting the pressure settings? If not, it's probably not adjustable.
Ah, so maybe it's not a good thing that I was using the compressor last night, just filling it up to 125psi, turning it off, using it for a bit, and manually turning it on and off as I needed? :-) But either way, I think you're right, I probably need a new pressure switch. Because now I can at least turn it back on without having to drain it all the way first. Perhaps that was fixed by cleaning the check valve?

To the last poster, I checked grainger.com. They might have a switch that would work, but I couldn't find the specific model number. However, upon googling the model number (CW207576AV), I found that it has been replaced with a newer model (CW210100AJ) which will work. Grainger didn't have that one either, but I did find it on eBay. Think that switch will work? If so I'll just get that one and throw it on.
 
  #13  
Old 07-08-08, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jmill130 View Post
grainger.com should sell these, i think a few years ago i picked one up for $15. They have local stores too. If its adjustable then you should see screws inside that you back off/tighten.
Oh, and there weren't any instructions inside for changing the settings. There are a couple screws inside that look like they would adjust the settings, but no idea how to adjust them properly. I think a new switch is in order.

Edit: Looks like I found the same one I've got on it right now here: http://www.toolsdirect.com/index.cfm...ource=shopping
 
  #14  
Old 07-08-08, 01:23 PM
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I see this model quite a few times during the year. It is a good unit and there are several other names that CH market this unit for others like Ridgid, Husky and others. I usually match the check valve to the size of the tank thread, the size of the compressor pipe and the bleed off to the pressure switch. CH, Coleman, Devilibus and others use pretty much standard check valves.

On the pressure switch, which we have minimual problems, watch the factory settings for correct. Sure you can adjust them, but only as a last resort.

Moisture is the biggest problem with an air compressor. If you look in the yellow pages there probably a local business that has those parts in stock.
 
  #15  
Old 07-08-08, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CAMINO KID View Post
I see this model quite a few times during the year. It is a good unit and there are several other names that CH market this unit for others like Ridgid, Husky and others. I usually match the check valve to the size of the tank thread, the size of the compressor pipe and the bleed off to the pressure switch. CH, Coleman, Devilibus and others use pretty much standard check valves.

On the pressure switch, which we have minimual problems, watch the factory settings for correct. Sure you can adjust them, but only as a last resort.

Moisture is the biggest problem with an air compressor. If you look in the yellow pages there probably a local business that has those parts in stock.
Thanks. That switch on eBay is rated to come on at 100psi, and off at 125 psi. The one on the machine right now is 95 and 125, so it should work, right? But maybe you're right, I'll check the phonebook, and see if I can't find somewhere around that carries them. What kind of business should I be looking at? I've already tried on small engine repair shop, and they don't carry parts for CH air compressors.
 
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Old 07-08-08, 07:00 PM
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We happen to have a company that handle air compressors in our community. I have quit doing warranty work on them due to conflicts with how they reimburse me. Will still repair them when the compressor is not under warranty. The switch should do just fine without any adjustments with the 100 and 125. Some of the later models are going to 150 now with a come on at 100-125 area.

The good old AT&T yellow pages index list air compressors.

Good Luck and keep the moisture out of the tanks. This unit will go a long time if you keep it out of the dirt and dust. The compressor is repairable with a piston/rod kit that includes the cylinder liner also. The only problem other than moisture that I see on these is an occasional screw coming out of the reed valve plate and then the pump will not go above 50.
 
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Old 07-08-08, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CAMINO KID View Post
We happen to have a company that handle air compressors in our community. I have quit doing warranty work on them due to conflicts with how they reimburse me. Will still repair them when the compressor is not under warranty. The switch should do just fine without any adjustments with the 100 and 125. Some of the later models are going to 150 now with a come on at 100-125 area.

The good old AT&T yellow pages index list air compressors.

Good Luck and keep the moisture out of the tanks. This unit will go a long time if you keep it out of the dirt and dust. The compressor is repairable with a piston/rod kit that includes the cylinder liner also. The only problem other than moisture that I see on these is an occasional screw coming out of the reed valve plate and then the pump will not go above 50.
So that switch I found on eBay should work ok? Thanks. If I can't find a company locally that sells it, I'll pick that one up and hope that fixes it. Thanks for the advice.
 
  #18  
Old 07-09-08, 09:10 AM
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Update: Just found a (semi)-local company that has the part in stock. I'm gonna pick it up this afternoon and I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.

Thanks.
 
  #19  
Old 07-09-08, 05:26 PM
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Success!! I picked up the switch, pulled off the old one, installed the new one, and everything works great!

Now since I've never owned an air compressor before, can you answer a couple questions for me? That little release valve that you can pull to let the air out. When I pull on it, it just pops out and stays out on it's own till the air gets down to about 40 psi. Is that how it's supposed to work? And the new switch is supposed to turn on at about 100 psi, and turn off at 125, and I while I didn't notice at what point it turns on, I noticed that it doesn't shut off till the gauge reads 135. Is the switch off a bit? Or is it more likely that the switch is more accurate than my gauge? And if my gauge is accurate, is it safe for it to be going to that high of psi? Since the compressor is rated at max 125, it's not going to hurt it going higher is it? Or is that what that safety release valve is for? If it gets too high, I'm assuming that release valve will pop out?

Thanks for all the help, this compressor will be great to have.
 
  #20  
Old 07-10-08, 08:54 AM
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That valve you pull on the release is a safety valve that is suppose to pop off so you do not over pressure the tank. Yes is will stay out until about 30 to 40 psi guage or you push it back in. Most gauges are close but not real accurate, especially as they age otherwise they would not be very affordable. You should be okay as the equipment is over engineered for safety. Hope this put you at ease. The safety pop valve is rated some where between 135 and 150. It is marked on the side of the valve.
 
  #21  
Old 07-10-08, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CAMINO KID View Post
That valve you pull on the release is a safety valve that is suppose to pop off so you do not over pressure the tank. Yes is will stay out until about 30 to 40 psi guage or you push it back in. Most gauges are close but not real accurate, especially as they age otherwise they would not be very affordable. You should be okay as the equipment is over engineered for safety. Hope this put you at ease. The safety pop valve is rated some where between 135 and 150. It is marked on the side of the valve.
Sweet thanks. Also, can you direct me anywhere to read about caring for air compressors to help it last longer? Like I hear you want to keep the moisture out, but how do you do that? And what is the proper way to de-compress it when I'm done? Just pull the safety valve? Or untwist the release valves on the tanks themselves? Just wondering about a good resource to learn all that stuff, never having owned one before.
 
  #22  
Old 07-11-08, 08:18 AM
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Basically on this unit there are only two things you need to service. First, on each tank there is a drain valve that you release the moisture daily or weekly depending on the humidity. Second, there is an inlet filter under the rectangular cover by the handle that has a felt filter. Keep it clean or replace regularly. Be careful not to flip it over and insert with the previously dirty side towards the compressor. A sure way to get dirt into the cylinder. Try not to operate it where it can get a lot of dust otherwise they run a very long time. Good Luck.
 
  #23  
Old 07-11-08, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CAMINO KID View Post
Basically on this unit there are only two things you need to service. First, on each tank there is a drain valve that you release the moisture daily or weekly depending on the humidity. Second, there is an inlet filter under the rectangular cover by the handle that has a felt filter. Keep it clean or replace regularly. Be careful not to flip it over and insert with the previously dirty side towards the compressor. A sure way to get dirt into the cylinder. Try not to operate it where it can get a lot of dust otherwise they run a very long time. Good Luck.
Great, I'll be sure to do that. Thanks a bunch for your help.
 
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