Craftsman tractor quit moving

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-23-08, 02:40 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
Craftsman tractor quit moving

Middle of mowing last night 24HP garden tractor with hydro trans stopped forward travel. Will back up but no forward, only whine and ratcheting noise. Any ideas? It's been running like a top so rather surprised by this new development. Tractor has a little over 300 hours and has been well maintained. Honestly don't quite know where to look for problems.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-23-08, 07:52 PM
30yearTech's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 1,176
Hmmm... I would have a look at the input drive pulley on the hydro and make sure it's not slipping on the shaft. This is puzzling since it still works in reverse.

What is the brand and model of your tractor?
 
  #3  
Old 07-23-08, 09:11 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
I'm thinking the ratcheting noise is possibly gears jumping? Does it sound like that's a possible casue for the noise you're hearing? I don't know what else it could be. Is the tranny full of fluid (if it's even one that you can check fluid level on)?
 
  #4  
Old 07-24-08, 05:55 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
Thanks for the suggestion. Will check it out.
The unit is a 24HP-50" Craftsman garden tractor.
Model is a 917.273220
 
  #5  
Old 07-24-08, 04:56 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 755
Send me a PM with email address and I will send you a document conerning your problem.
 
  #6  
Old 07-24-08, 05:22 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
I guess I failed to mention that the tractor has a hydrostatic transmission. I'll get a chance to tear into it more this evening with wishful thinking that a key may have sheared either in the pulley or on the axle and that there is just enough of it left to pull it in reverse but that it sheared when going from reverse to forward (not unnecessarily harshly, I might mention)
Thanks again to all advisors
 
  #7  
Old 07-25-08, 05:38 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 755
I guess I was not clear in my previous post.

Your mower has a Hydro-Gear 222-3010L transaxle. A BDU-10 L-122 pump powers the transaxle.

First, I suggest you check the transaxle oil and service or replace as required. Then I suggest you purge/bleed the transaxle.

Before removing the transaxle, check all components external the transaxle and items that are easily accessed with the transaxle installed. If you can you remove the check valves with the transaxle installed I suggest you remove them and confirm the ball is in place. Ball seat damaged or ball out of position is not uncommon. If valves are gummy or not, clean the valves with solvent and reinstall. Check the transaxle to see if it works.

If everything you can access with the transaxle installed checks out remove the transaxle to work on it. I suspect your problem will be in the transaxle pump.

The following are things that Hydro-Gear says may cause your transaxle to travel in only one direction:
Improper adjustment of linkage to control arm. The control arm must have full travel to function correctly.
Belt slippage causing low RPM on input shaft.
Missing ball or poppet in a check valve.

The following are things that Hydro-Gear says may cause your transaxle pump to be noisy:
Low oil or contaminated oil
By-pass valve partial engagement
Clogged filter or damaged hose
Loose control arm
Partial engagement of the by-pass valve

Here is the operator manual with parts list for your tractor:
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_...M/98120028.pdf

This is the service schematic and parts list for the transaxle pump.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Free...0Schematic.pdf

If you feel, you are up to this repair PM me and I will send you needed documents.
 
  #8  
Old 07-25-08, 03:28 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4
Thanks for all the info...amazing what you can learn when you find the right person. Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.
 
  #9  
Old 08-05-08, 05:25 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
airman,

that is good advice you give. i also have this same tranny in my garden tractor that simply quit on me. it quit underneath a big shady tree, so i'm happy for that, but perhaps you can can give me some more general advice. ....

let's assume i'm a girl, and have relatively limited knowledge of transmissions. i have already managed to rebuild the deck on the tractor and replace all the belts, and i think i could manage to rip the transmission off the tractor itself...but i think the transmission repair would be a bad idea for me.

just generally speaking, on a garden tractor, could a mere girl replace the transmission? how much would this transmission cost if i could find a rebuilt model? (i'm assuming new would be stupid money). will it take me until next spring to get the tractor reassembled or is this a straightforward job?

i will try all those things you mentioned in your previous post, and see if i can get anywhere with them.

thansk for any advice....penny
 
  #10  
Old 08-06-08, 12:52 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
If it just quit all of a sudden, your transmission belt probably just came off. Hydros rarely fail instantly.
 
  #11  
Old 08-06-08, 09:06 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 755
Originally Posted by cheese View Post
If it just quit all of a sudden, your transmission belt probably just came off. Hydros rarely fail instantly.
Most of the tractors with hydros brought to me for repair are belt related. Usually, slipped off a pulley.

Every year I get a mower in that will not start. I check the gas and it is empty. Customers feel really bad when this happens. I just tell them no charge and to remember me when they have a problem.

How would a genius like me know to check gas? I donít tell them about the tractor engine I worked on for three hours and it was out of gas.

Pennygirl,
As Cheese says check the belt. It is the number one problem.
 
  #12  
Old 08-08-08, 10:46 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
okay, the transmission belt. is this some other belt than the forward motion belt, that big belt that runs from the engine pulley in the front and then winds it's way back to the pulley on the side of the tranny, and so forth? i just replace that belt about 8 hours of mowing ago. when i checked again, it still seems perfectly fine, when i run the tractor, the motion drive belt goes around and around just fine, turning the pulley on the side of the tranny. you can hear the hydro gears trying to work inside the tranny, just no motion transmitted to the wheels.

folks have advised that i "check the fluid level", or that i "blew a seal", but i am not sure the 222-3010L has any fluid to check since it is a sealed tranny, i believe.

when i pull up the scematic of the the hydrogear tranny, there is a screw on oil filter on the side, so i'm assuming that if the oil filter can be changed, that the oil can be changed too? or possibly added to? i'll see what i can find when i crawl back underneath tomorrow on the day off....having a job gets in the way of tractor repairs....sigh
 
  #13  
Old 08-08-08, 11:35 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
I'm thinking there's more to this that could help us figure out the problem. You said you replaced the belt very recently....why? Did the old one break, or was the tranny sluggish? What happened before it quit under the shade tree? Was it working just fine, or was there something not quite right?

The tranny belt is the belt you described.
 
  #14  
Old 08-09-08, 10:48 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
hydro gear tranny reluctance

[QUOTE=cheese;1410942]You said you replaced the belt very recently....why? Did the old one break, or was the tranny sluggish? What happened before it quit under the shade tree? Was it working just fine, or was there something not quite right?QUOTE]

here's the history: tractor 10 years old, used to cut 5 acres of treed yard and meadow by the teenage son whose goal in life was to race the tractor and cut the yard as quickly as possible and to hell with taking any care of the mower. ridden hard & put away wet. when things went wrong, traveling dad would fix with quick band-aid solutions just to get things up and running again.

this is my first year with the tractor. it constantly ate the deck belts until i managed to shear off a mandrel pulley. found out the tractor repair place put the wrong mandrel on the last time they attempted to fix, so i replaced both outside mandrels, blade splines, bearing races, etc, both sides brand new. deck now cuts better than ever. however i must have transferred the stress to the drive belt.

after two cuts of the yard, the drive belt (the original to the tractor) shredded itself by getting caught in the transmission pulley. i had forewarning since the belt was slightly slipping and the drive doing a new little random slight jerking thing. it broke by the road, i set the little lever under the seat to the "tow" position and the neighbor towed me 100 ft to the shed. even with the lever in the the "tow" position, the mower would not freewheel just by pushing it, and i physically could not get the mower to move without getting a hernia, so i had the neighbor pull the tractor.

i got a new drive belt, installed it with no problem, easier than the deck belts. everything working fine, grass cutting better than ever. engine sounds exactly the same. HOWEVER......something wasn't right. the "tone" of the mower sound was just a bit higher, and i assumed this might be from the new tight belt. also, it seemed that the mover didn't "move" as fast as it did before with the same lever assembly arm position. it seemed that the rate of advancement of the mower was about half what it was before. i initially had the same belt "slippage" feeling that i had before the belt broke, but i crawled under the mower again and nothing seemed out of place or caught in the pulleys, etc, and the slippage feeling soon went away.

i had absolutely NO advance notice that the tranny would go. started up the mower, backed out of the barn, made a trip around the yard, slowly advancing up the tiny incline next to the tree, when the mower decided it wasn't going further and motion stopped. no forward motion, no backward motion. engine still sounds strong, tranny gearing working.

i let it roll backward to the drive, remove the deck, crawled underneath to look for problems, and since i had just put on that new belt i assumed the problem was associated with the belt. everything looks fine. tranny pulley not sheared off the tranny and not freewheeling, still very tight. belt running fine, pulley turning, just no motion to the axels. the keys are still in place in the axels, can't get to the tranny bolt to see if the key still there but i'm assuming at this point it is since the pulley is tight.

an interesting thing is that i can move the tractor with one hand now. before, with the lever under the seat in the tow position, it would have taken an act of god for me to move it by myself. NOW, with the lever in the tow position, i can move the thing around like pushing a little red wagon. there is NO resistance at this point. there is no burning smell or fluid vomiting from any orifice, there is no screeching belt slipping noise, no gear grinding noises, no metal things caught against other metal things and chewing their way to their death noises. the tranny simply quit. although you can still hear the little hydro gears inside working.

i'm willing to throw money at the thing (but not to the point of a new $1400 tranny plus labor) but since i don't have the experience with tractors, i'm trying my best to figure out the obvious "check this" things, before i drag the beast to the shade tree mechanic. if i can fix it myself, that means i have more money to repair the engine, because you know that's where the stress will be transferred next...smiles
 
  #15  
Old 08-09-08, 10:26 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
Wow, that's probably one of the best, if not the very best/most detailed historys posted here for us to work with. It's so much easier to get an idea of what's happening when there is detailed information posted to fill in the blanks. Thanks for that.

The bad part is that it does sound like internal failure. I think it is probably a failure of just one part, maybe even something like a snap ring or a key on a shaft, but I do believe it's internal. Are you up to taking the tranny out and taking it apart?
 
  #16  
Old 08-10-08, 10:00 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 755
Inspect the pulley and shaft on the transaxle pump for looseness. See if the pulley is turning and not the shaft, this would indicate the pulley or shaft is stripped. I think this is a splined shaft and pulley and the splines could have stripped out.

I see this problem on Tuff Torq transaxles often.
 
  #17  
Old 08-10-08, 03:26 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
jingle-jangle noise

>cheese<
The bad part is that it does sound like internal failure. I think it is probably a failure of just one part, maybe even something like a snap ring or a key on a shaft, but I do believe it's internal. Are you up to taking the tranny out and taking it apart?

>airman<
Inspect the pulley and shaft on the transaxle pump for looseness. See if the pulley is turning and not the shaft, this would indicate the pulley or shaft is stripped. I think this is a splined shaft and pulley and the splines could have stripped out.

airman, when the tractor runs and the belt is turning, the pulley and the shaft are turning together as one unit. the pulley seems very tight on the shaft...the guy across the street suggested this very same thing (sheared off splines or key) and shook his head when he listened to it. he thinks it's internal also.

cheese, here is some additional info about the beast. so i jacked it up to remove the wheels to watch the end of the pulley shaft, and to see if i could find a oil reservoir to top up (alas, no). up on the jack stands, when i started up the tractor, and put it into gear, the rear axles turned very slowly, but they were turning. even when the lever was set in the "crazy fast" speed, they were turning much too slowly for that speed. (axels also turned in reverse). in forward, when the axels were turning, if you manually grabbed the lug bolt plate, you could easily stop the rotation of the axel and turn them backwards, however, stopping the rotation would create the noise of a large chain being dragged behind a pickup truck on the road, that jiggly-jangle noise. not a metal plate being forced ripping, shearing groaning binding noise, but instead a big-chain-sort-of-jingle-jangle. but not a very loud noise, just noticeable because we were listening for it.

i will see if i can turn up a manual for this transmission BEFORE i attempt to take it apart. it was suggested that i should take the tractor to the shade tree mechanic to work on rather than just taking the tranny, since they can "test" it after they fix it that way. (will contact the shade tree mechanic and see if he evern wants to work on the beast!). it was also suggested that the inside of the tranny has lots of little parts that will immediately leap to their death if i attempt to take it apart. i am also hunting for the "blown engine" tractor on craigs list to salvage the useable tranny off it for my needs. spring is the deadline. i didn't want to cut the grass any more this year, anyway....
 
  #18  
Old 08-10-08, 05:15 PM
30yearTech's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 1,176
Perhaps the problem lies in your bypass valve. This is the valve that is actuated when you move the lever that lets you push the mower.

Since you indicated that it was hard to push even when in the position for pushing, it may not have released. Now you say you can push it easily with one hand, perhaps the valve is stuck open.

Follow the linkage to where is operates the valve on the tranny and see if it is moving the shaft into the transmission. Maybe it's just stuck and needs a little persuasion for it to close.

Just a thought.
 
  #19  
Old 08-11-08, 06:08 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
<30yearTech>
Since you indicated that it was hard to push even when in the position for pushing, the bypass valve may not have released. Now you say you can push it easily with one hand, perhaps the valve is stuck open. Follow the linkage to where is operates the valve on the tranny and see if it is moving the shaft into the transmission. Maybe it's just stuck and needs a little persuasion for it to close.

Tech, the old guy across the street suggested this also. when i push the "tow stick" to the "tow" position, this stick pushed on a lever on the tranny pump housing which in turn pushes on a little silver button about the size of a pencil eraser on the side of the pump housing right next to the oil filter. this silver button moves freely in and out, so it is not sticking. i don't see that this little button alters any shaft position of any sort on the outside of the transmission. it appears to me that the only shaft on the outside of the transmission is the one that comes from the pump that the pulley is attached to, that the drive belt wraps around.

the fact that when i have the tractor jacked up and the wheels off, i have very reduced motion to the axels when in gear, however when load is applied to the axels, i can halt the movement, seems to me that perhaps a gear inside the tranny has shifted or teeth inside on a spline have mostly sheared off. perhaps the gear teeth minutely mesh which accounts for the limited movement, however, the teeth don't mesh enough to create drive under load. i'm suspicious of the jingle-jangle noise under load.
 
  #20  
Old 08-11-08, 07:47 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
adding fluid worth a try?

found this bit of info on another site: do you think i should try this? or do you think the fluid is not really a problem here and i'm just fooling myself?

>Concerning Craftsman 22 hp Garden Tractor Model no. 917.273080 with Hydro-Gear transaxle no. 222-3010L.

Driven by disappointment in Sears for indicating that the automatic transmission / transaxle requires NO maintenance - and the only out of warranty problem assistance they have offered to this point is to pay $95 / hr. for their Tech to come out and look at the problem, and by the way they stated they only replace problem units, - I decided to contact Hydro-Gear for assistance.

Hydro-Gear's web site is:
http://www.hydro-gear.com/

I called Hydro-Gear (very helpful folks) and was provided the following information.

The recommendation was to change the Transaxle Filter every 2 years, and the Transaxle Oil every year. (for normal conditions) In very dusty or heavy use conditions you may want to change the oil and filter every year.
NOTE: The oil filter is a 40 micron suction canister and MUST NOT be replaced with an engine oil filter. Engine oil filters are pressure canisters and the element will collapse when used on the transaxle resulting in problems.
The following information is is for the 222-3010L Hydro-Gear transaxle.
The factory oil is 10w/40w Mobile motor oil. Any good grade of 10w/40w motor oil will work.
The Transaxle Oil Filter P/N is: 51563
I was directed to W.J.Connell Co. in Foxboro, MA, (800)456-5691 to secure the oil filter. The filter cost about $12.50 + shipping. Delivery was quick.
Drain & Fill Instructions: Drain plug at bottom of Transaxle (allen hex plug). There are two upper plugs, one located on right and one on the left upper sides of the case just above the axle part of the housing. Both are allen hex plugs. It appears the one on the right (shift lever side) is a bit larger and higher than the left plug. Hydro-Gear recommended adding oil in the right side plug and to fill until oil reaches this plug level (about 100 fluid ounces). They noted that either side will work for the fill port and that the oil is supposed to cover the axle - this part of the housing acts as the reservoir.
Caution: Use safety precautions during purge operation when running engine and wheels lifted off of the ground.
Purge Instructions: Jack up rear wheels, disengage drive-train (set to free-wheel using clip lever), start engine and run at 1/2 throttle, slowly move shift lever from forward to reverse several times, stop engine, engage drive-train (set to lock using freelwheel clip lever), start engine and run at 1/2 throttle, slowly move shift lever from forward to reverse several times until wheels turn without indication of air in hydraulic system.<
 
  #21  
Old 08-11-08, 10:39 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
I'm quite sure the fluid isn't the problem here, unless the fluid just dupmed all out all of a sudden. If that were the case, I think it would have been noticeable.
 
  #22  
Old 08-12-08, 09:34 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
swapping trannies

okay, so i managed to run down another garden tractor, this one a craftsman, same basic mower only a bit smaller, the craftsman is a 18 hp and 46 in deck, the hyrogrear tranny is model #218-3010L. my mower is a ranch king pro 22 hp and 48 in deck, bad hydrogear tranny 222-3010L.

can i put the 18 tranny onto the 22 tractor? will this create some sort of bad tractor karma and the more powerful engine will cause the smaller tranny to kill itself early? are these really the same transmission or is there some significant difference i should know about? thanks for any advice in my tranny quest....smiles
 
  #23  
Old 08-12-08, 11:12 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
I don't know, but If both trannies appear to be the same, bolt up the same, linkages attatch the same, and axles are the same, then do the swap. I doubt the hp difference will affect it.
 
  #24  
Old 08-13-08, 07:31 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
swapping trannies

cheese, here is the message i got from hydrogear whan i dropped them an emai, your answer was spot on!

They are very similar. The 218 is an older version with the 222 being it's replacement. We know that the 222 will fit in place of 218 but have not checked if the 218 will fit in place of the 222.
 
  #25  
Old 08-13-08, 08:16 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 755
According to AYP/Electrolux/Husqvarna the transaxles replaceable to each other. The AYP 150073 is a Hydro-Gear 218-3010L. AYP shows the substitute replacement for 150073 to be 163198, which is Hydro-Gear model 222-3010L.

I see this transaxle is a Ranch King Pro. This was the first reference to the tractor. From my memory, some tractors were manufactured by MTD and some by AYP. What is the model number of the tractor?

I would advice all posters to start their posts with equipment manufacturers name and model numbers of equipment and engine. Why would I say this? Somewhere in my shop, in a box, I believe are paper service manuals for AYP manufactured Ranch King Pros. Manual may have been a benefit.
 
  #26  
Old 08-13-08, 09:05 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
tranny swap

airman,

this info on the hydrogear switch-a-roo is music to my ears. i figured if one would work for the other, then the reverse would be true.

i went and drove the replacement mower at the used tractor store (where they want $200 for a craftsman 917-258870 46'deck 18 hp koehler twin) this mower makes my old mower seem like a cream-puff. the craftsman steering linkage is completely messed up, with basically no right turn (thinking tie rod end) and the thing wanders like a drunken sailor while the operator over-corrects constantly. there is no working height adjustment on the deck that's been thru a war, two positions...scalp and high. engine running rough, but maybe i'm not used to a twin. on a positive note, the tranny didn't lose power after i rode around their yard for half an hour (as i tried to kill the mower with my bad mower mojo). however......i only am interested in the tranny, which seemed fine. but what do i know? it's just as old as the one i killed on my mower....

my mower: ranch king pro model#RKGT22H46A 22 HP 46 in deck American Yard Products tranny#222-3010L #163198

mower under consideration: craftsman #917.258870 18HP 46 in deck tranny#218-3010L

new question: it seems like this would be an uncomplicated swap. it looks like the puppy just bolts up into place, with maybe a retaining spring, loop the drive belt around the tranny pulley and toss the drive stick back on the mower. it certainly doesn't seem as complicated as a car tranny hookup....am i missing something here or would this swap be relatively uncomplicated? is there a trick tool i'll need to have before starting the job?

of course, my dad says that this tranny is just as old as the one i broke, so i could be throwing good money after bad. what are the odds that i could kill two trannies? aren't trannies usually bullet-pruf or are these trannies particularly disaster prone?

thanks for any advice...penny
 
  #27  
Old 08-13-08, 11:09 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
If your old mower is worth more than $200 to you, then do the swap. My old craftsman is a 1985 model and the hydro is still pulling fine, and I ABUSE it. All caps doesn't do it justice either, I mean I really abuse it. It pulls a 20 foot trailer around sometimes....loaded with 5000-6000 lbs. It's so much that the mower stands the front end up in the air, and it nearly flattens the fully-inflated tires. I have to put counterweight on the front bumper to keep the front end down. Yet the tranny still pulls it without complaining. I also used it one time to pull down walls in a house I was tearing down. I use it to haul broken down mowers around the shop yard, and have a big push-bar bumper on the front and have used it as a crash-derby mower on junk mowers for the fun of it. It cuts grass a little nicer looking than my $4000 john deere. 23 years old and the only major things I've done to it were to replace the deck when the old one rusted away and also put an electric PTO clutch on it.

Point is... just because it's old and heavily used doesn't mean it's about to go out. It might, but then again it may last another 20 years. It surely wouldn't hurt to service it before installing it in your mower.
 
  #28  
Old 08-26-08, 01:51 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
adjustment question

okay......tranny update:

original tractor: ranch king pro model#RKGT22H46A 22 HP 46 in deck American Yard Products tranny#222-3010L #163198

junk tractor: craftsman #917.258870 18HP 46 in deck tranny#218-3010L

so i gathered up my balls and did the tranny swap....well, actually i did half the swap, the original tranny is now sitting listlessly in the yard awaiting installation into the junk tractor, and the original mower now has the junk tranny installed on it. swap out was easy as pie and would have been easier if i had a better selection of man tools. but as a girl, i was able to do it. so i bought myself a pair of shoes to celebrate.

new questions: i haven't attempted to actually mow anything yet (so maybe the shoe purchase was premature) but i need to adjust some things and i have a "what in heck is this thing?" question. the tractor is still up on the jackstands, wheels off.

what the heck is this thing? question: okay, on the junk tranny, there is a foot long wiggly hose about as big around as my thumb that sticks off the back of it with something that looks like a breather valve on the end (and it dripped a couple drops of oil when it wiggled into a downward pointing direction). the original tranny has a spot for this but it is MIA long ago. the owners manual says this wiggly hose is a "154739 Line Fuel Hydro 15 inch VGT Serv" and the thing on the end is a "142917 Cap Asm Vent Hydro Gear 70109". google could not help me with deciphering these manly terms....is this contraption just a breather valve, and would the fact that it is missing on the old tranny have had an effect to cause it to die an early death?

adjustment question: when i rode the junk tractor at the junk tractor store, even tho the tranny seemed fine, the shift adjustment lever seemed like it was not adjusted to "top dead center". with the old tranny, when the shift position lever was in the neutral position, that was sort of like "top dead center" and the tractor was at a stand still. the junk tranny seems to be off "top dead center". when the shift lever is in the neutral position, the tranny wants to move backwards slightly. to get the tractor to assume dead stop, the shift lever has to be at a slightly forward position from the indicated neutral slot. where do i make this adjustment? my guess is the "link shift assembly" (do i move the lock bolts CLOSER together or further apart?), however, it could also be to change the "bolt position in the control arm" of the tranny.

i'm going to go say a prayer to the tractor gods and install the old tranny in the junk tractor (can't do any harm to that one) and see if you all can help with the adjustment questions in the meantime.....

thanks to everyone who encouraged me to attempt this undertaking...not that it worked yet, but i think i'm close to the end. we'll see if i get to the "mowing the lawn" stage or if i just push both the tractors onto the train tracks and hope the trains run on time....penny
 
  #29  
Old 08-26-08, 11:03 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
The hose and cap are the vent as you suspected. If your old one was missing, it would allow dirt, dust, bugs, or whatever to enter the tranny. Hydro trannys are not tolerant of contaminants, so the failure of your old one may be at least partly due to the fact it was missing.

On the adjustment, look at the movement of the lever when you shift from fwd to rev, and see which way the shifter needs to move to get it to be in the neutral notch while the tranny is in neutral, then adjust it in that direction. I can't say for sure which way to adjust it without looking at it myself.

Enjoy the shoes, you earned 'em .
 
  #30  
Old 08-26-08, 11:55 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
adjust the dog bone thingee?

cheese,

thanks for the quick reply. i managed to wrestle the old non-moving tranny up and into the junk tractor and get them out of the way. now to make some adjustments to the original tractor with the junk tranny.

when you say "adjust it in that direction".....what exactly do you mean by "adjust"? adjust what?

i've narrowed it down to a couple things. i'll describe it and you tell me what "thing" i need to adjust in this description. okay, there's the "shift position lever" that sticks out of the fender and runs back and forth in the F-N-R slot. it connects thru the frame to the "link shift assembly" that looks like a dog bone shaped contraption. one end of the dog bone holds the end of the shift position lever, the other end of the dog bone bolts to the "control arm" on the tranny. in the middle of the dog bone, there is a little knurly cross-hatched adjustment, just like a turn-buckle, you can make the dog bone longer or shorter. where the dog bone bolts to the control arm, on the control arm itself there are two bolt holes right next to each other. i used the bolt hole at the very end of the control arm where both linkages of both trannies were bolted.

basically, when the shift lever is moves out of neutral and travels forward, the linkage pulls the control arm in a downward fashion. since the "top dead center" position of the tranny appears to be when the shift lever is shifted slightly forward, i should adjust the shift linkage (dogbone) by tightening the knurly screw so it pulls the two ends closer together and thus pulls the control arm in a downward fashion. does this make any sense or is there some other sort of adjustment that you are indicating?

the tractor repair manual i got from the library which covers every transmission EXCEPT mine, in the troubleshooting section says: "Tractor creeps when in neutral...could be caused by a worn or misadjusted control linkage." when they say "control linkage", are they referring to the "link shift assembly"?

i appreciate all your help and patience with my questions.....penny
 
  #31  
Old 08-27-08, 01:01 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
adjust the dogbone thingee?

okay, i've eliminated the control arm bolt holes as being a possible adjustment possibility. i found this blurb posted out on the web:

2. Check the shift linkage and be certain that the adjustment is correct. The second season for my tractor I noticed that the forward speed was dropping off and I changed the linkage to provide greater range of movement on the control arm located on the transmission. If your model is like mine you will notice that the transmission shift linkage arm (on the transmission) has 2 location holes for the shift linkage rod. The factory installation uses the hole farthest away from the pivot point for the control arm which minimizes the movement and thereby the forward and reverse speeds. I moved the shift linkage to the inside hole on the transmission shift control arm and the speed, especially forward, was back to its' perky self. Prior to moving the linkage arm, the shift knob would hit the limit of the Z slot and limit speed. Now the shift know does not bottom out, rather, the shift control in the transmission limits the movement of the shifter knob. No doubt now that the shifter is requesting full forward from the transmission.
 
  #32  
Old 08-28-08, 01:23 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
The "dogbone" part with the knurled adjuster is where you'll want to adjust. From your description, it sounds as if you'd want to make it shorter, so that it pulls the shifter arm downward slightly, so that it will be in neutral when the shifter handle is in neutral.
 
  #33  
Old 02-27-10, 06:54 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1
Love this thread

I just got a Craftsman 917.273022 from my parents who after 15 plus years, had it quit on them (going down hill). Having the money they bought a brand new and tossed the running ,but not moving tractor at me.

In trying to research possible tranny problems I ran across this thread and found it not only fun but informative. I too was looking at swapping.

I have messed with mine i.e. taken the 222-3010L off separated pump from tranny, added fluid, tried to test it put it back and nothing. I have a filter coming and will try the flush and fill reccomendations. After my work with engine running the tranny whines kinda like a buzz saw, at loudest pitch acts like it wants to move but doesn't.

But I will continue to locate a blown engine good tranny tractor for a swap.

Is there a place that shows all brands and models that would have a 222-3010L and/or equivalents like the new 163198 etc.

Like Husq models a, b, c d
Electro models a, b

I am very hopeful that if I can not get this tranny working, that I can find a blown engine donor tractor

Penny if you still there did your swap out work?

Best Regards
Rich
 
  #34  
Old 05-27-14, 06:11 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 13
"Penny if you still there did your swap out work?"

Rich, yep, the tranny swap-out worked like a charm. the tractor has been happily running like a champ ever since. lots of babying, like deck re-builds every year, new tires, etc.... but the tranny is STRONG!

new problem..... the boyfriend was cutting the field yesterday, and the ground drive/motion belt shredded itself. so i sent the man off to the tractor store to get a new belt (the ground drive belt NEVER goes bad... so something is wrong) and crawled under the tractor to investigate.

the little drive belt keeper pin that sits just above the big pulley on the side of the transmission had two deep grooves newly carved into it from the pulley itself. odd that.

so i got the keeper pin off the bad-tranny bone-yard tractor, installed the new belt, installed the pin and the boyfriend insisted on cutting with the tractor to "test it". INSTANTLY, sparks were shooting out the back as the pulley was impacting that little keeper pin, carving those same two pulley grooves.

okay, that was my second sign that "something wasn't right". i thought that since the tractor still moved fine without ANY cutting load on it, that we should move the tractor back to the barn so the girl could work on it at her leisure.

this option was voted down by the boyfriend who insisted that the tractor would cut "just fine!" without the keeper pin.

yeah, what could possibly go wrong? (rolls eyeballs)

exactly. quickly the belt jumped off, wedged itself between the pulley and the transmission, and is in the field the longest possible distance away from the barn. yep, pushing the tractor is FUN!

my current working theory is that "bearings in the idler pulley(s) have gone bad" and that the idler pulley(s) may need to be replaced. so i am hunting up parts on the google machine.

if anyone out there has a guess about what might be causing the transmission pulley to be pulled into the keeper pin... feel free to drop a note!

penny
 
  #35  
Old 05-27-14, 10:59 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
The bearings on the input shaft of the transmission might be bad from the sound of it. Does the large pulley wobble around if you move it by hand?
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes