Poulan/Weedeater Rider electrical problem

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  #1  
Old 07-28-08, 02:10 PM
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Poulan/Weedeater Rider electrical problem

After mowing 10 minutes or so, I had to stop to remove a tree branch. Normally I put on the brake and lock it, idle it down, put it in neutral and disengage the blades and the mower will continue to run when I get off the seat. But I didn't disengage the blades and it died before I got off the seat. So, I guess, the safety interlock demon has done me in...
So far I have remade/cleaned every pluggable connector, redid the ground connector, metered the battery OK. No change in the symptom."when I try to start it nothing happens, no click, nothing".
I suspect the electrical plunger type interlock that is below the frame and gets activated by moving the lever that engages the blades could be the culprit. ( this was the last thing I did before it died ) How can I isolate this interlock and determine the problem? Looks like I'll have to remove the mower deck to get at it.
It is Model WE 1442A Product # 244-241. No luck finding that wiring diagram on the web.
Thanks, Ed
 
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Old 07-28-08, 02:36 PM
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There should be a decal under the seat of your rider with the model and serial number of your riding mower, this would help to see if we could locate a wiring diagram for you.

Usually the switch that interlocks the blades is not on the mower deck. It is usually located under the dash panel down by the steering shaft next to the arm that activates the mower blades. On many riders it's under the gas tank if your tank is under the hood.

The clutch switch and blade switch are generally the only switches that interlock the starter. Have you checked your fuse to make sure it's good and that you are getting power to the switch??
 
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Old 07-29-08, 08:41 AM
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Poulan/Weedeater Rider

Model # WE1442a, SN 032593S 001780, product # 244 241. Found a date stamp on the seat = MAR93. Rechecked the fuse, it meters OK, and there is 12 volts at the red lead going to the switch and at the solenoid. Found the clutch switch and blade switch. Cleaned those connections. Those both have a pair of white and black leads. Any way to bypass those switches to isolate further? Thx, Ed
 
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Old 07-29-08, 01:09 PM
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Here is the wiring diagram for your mower. See if this helps any.

You should test your starter solenoid and see if it's working, test for power at the white lead when the key is in the start position, with the blades disengaged and the clutch pedal depressed. If you get power here, then check the black wire for a good ground. If you are getting power at the white wire and the ground is good , then the solenoid may be the problem.

If the solenoid checks out, then you should trace the wire that is hot when the key is in the start position down through each safety switch test for power in and then out of each switch and to the starter solenoid.

www.imower.com/ipl/WE1442A_Wiring.pdf
 
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Old 07-29-08, 03:44 PM
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Only 7 volts at the white wire at the solenoid. Re-did the ground wire at the base of the solenoid, it looked ok. Also checked the voltage at the ignition switch. ON (B + L) both read 12 volts.
But in START (B + S + L) only show 7+ volts. Tracing the white wire (Hot) from the back of the ignition switch (in the start position) to the clutch safety switch is zero on both white wires, but there is 7 volts on both of the white wires at the blade safety switch. Does this narrow it down? All this testing was done with the blades disengaged and the clutch/brake pedal depressed.:
 
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Old 07-29-08, 03:51 PM
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Could have a connection somewhere with a lot of resistance. Check the ground cable from the battery to the chassis.

It's possible the battery may just be bad. I would suggest having it load tested, or try jump starting your rider. That is a tremendous drop in voltage, I would suspect a bad connection or a bad battery.
 
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Old 07-30-08, 12:02 AM
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I agree...loose battery cable, bad connection, or bad battery.
 
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Old 07-31-08, 10:40 AM
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Smile

Found the ground connection under the right fender. Cleaned it and replaced the battery. Back in business, thanks---Ed
 
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Old 07-31-08, 12:59 PM
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One thing we do with these units grounded to the frame, is to put a long ground cable from the battery directly to the engine. Usually less problem with the cable getting a bad ground to the frame. We use to have a simular problem with some of the old International trucks not wanting to crank over when they were warm. It would eliminate the problem.
 
  #10  
Old 09-10-08, 07:24 PM
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Would this be the same wiring as a 18HP mower?

Originally Posted by 30yearTech View Post
Here is the wiring diagram for your mower. See if this helps any.

You should test your starter solenoid and see if it's working, test for power at the white lead when the key is in the start position, with the blades disengaged and the clutch pedal depressed. If you get power here, then check the black wire for a good ground. If you are getting power at the white wire and the ground is good , then the solenoid may be the problem.

If the solenoid checks out, then you should trace the wire that is hot when the key is in the start position down through each safety switch test for power in and then out of each switch and to the starter solenoid.

www.imower.com/ipl/WE1442A_Wiring.pdf
 
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Old 09-10-08, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by txoutfitter View Post
Would this be the same wiring as a 18HP mower?
Maybe, maybe not, need to know brand, model and sn of your rider.
 
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