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Carb bowl Cleaning - Toro 6.5 hp self propelled


Stumped1's Avatar
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07-29-08, 09:26 AM   #1  
Carb bowl Cleaning - Toro 6.5 hp self propelled

Mower takes a lot of priming to get going. I read here about cleaning the carb & bowl.

When I loosened the carb bowl, fuel started leaking, I ended up letting it drain from the bowl until the tank was empty.

Am I supposed to drain the fuel tank first? Do I remove the bowl entirely?

 
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07-29-08, 12:12 PM   #2  
I had luck with just removing the bowl nut and cleaning the tiny bowl nut orifices with the wire tie from a bag of bread.
I had 4 holes that i ran the wire through.

The gas running out should stop after bowl drains unless your float is not functioning.

 
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07-29-08, 12:27 PM   #3  
You need to either drain the tank, or clamp off the fuel hose to keep fuel from flowing into the carburetor. The fuel will not stop draining out of the carburetor (good or bad float) if you take the float bowl nut and or bowl off of the carburetor.

If you post the model number off of your engine or at least the mower, we can be more helpful of what to look for and how to do it.

Thanks
Ken

 
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07-29-08, 01:31 PM   #4  
This one:

Toro 22 In. Fwd Variable Speed, 6.5 tp, Mulch, Bag, Side Discharge - High Wheel Walk Power Mower

Model 20065

 
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07-29-08, 01:39 PM   #5  
Ok, according to your model number, your mower has a Briggs and Stratton engine on it.

If it is taking a lot of priming to get it started, there is a good possibility that the primer is not working good. Remove the cover from the air filter and remove the element, look down into the throat of the carburetor and press the primer, you should see a steady stream of fuel push up the nozzle when you push the primer bulb.

If you get very little or no fuel up the nozzle, then the air filter base where it attaches to the carburetor may be leaking. There is a gasket between the base and the carburetor that may need to be replaced in order to get a good seal.

Your model shows that it can be no older then a 2007 model which should still be under warranty. You may want to take it to an authorized service center and see if they can take care of it while it's still in warranty.

 
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07-29-08, 02:40 PM   #6  
I will check it out. I didn't know I could take it to a local shop for warranty, I thought I would have to pack it up and ship it. I'll check into this as well.


Thanks.

 
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07-31-08, 08:13 PM   #7  
Took off the filter and checked the primer, it is barely getting fuel. Registered online and scheduled a service appointment.

Thanks.

 
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01-20-09, 09:57 PM   #8  
Never made it to the appointment and missed the warranty period

removed carb and cleaned with carb cleaner, Replaced, Inlet Needle, Seat, and Clip, removed bowl and replaced bowl gasket, and cleaned bowl nut thoroughly (soaked in Sea foam) with bread tie in all holes sprayed with carb cleaner and blew out with compressed air. Replaced carb tube o-ring. New spark plug and air filter.

I think the only thing I did not replace is the o-ring on the back side of the carburetor flange and the float.


Still won't start.

 
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01-21-09, 12:08 AM   #9  
Does it have spark?.....................


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God bless!

 
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01-21-09, 04:32 AM   #10  
Have you removed primer bulb and cleaned screen behind it? If not take off air cleaner base, remove primer bulb, clean screen behind it and blow compressed aire through passageways. Be sure to replace gasket between carb and base. Install gasket onto base.

 
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01-21-09, 06:05 PM   #11  
I don't think it has spark. I pulled the spark plug, sprayed some carb cleaner in there, and put the plug back and it did not fire. Then I pulled the plug and left it out and pulled the rip cord and I didn't see any spark, although it's hard to see the plug while I am pulling the cord at the same time.

What does it mean in terms of repair if there's no spark?.

I've read reviews of these Toro mowers and appparently there not very good, so I don't want to put too much $$$ into it.

 
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01-21-09, 08:26 PM   #12  
When checking for spark, make sure the metal part of the spark plug is touching a metal part of the engine. Have someone pull the cord while you watch for spark. If none, check the kill switch. It is at the end of the cable that comes from the bar that you let go of to kill the engine. Make sure the contact is disconnecting when the bar is pulled.


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01-22-09, 03:22 PM   #13  
I will check it out. I have been having problems with the speed control bar, it had become stiff and hard to squeeze, it had been loose and easy to control the speed when i first bought th mower.

Could these be related?

 
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01-23-09, 07:14 AM   #14  
I checked the kill switch area, I don't see anything making contract when the bar is pulled. There's just the lever that moves forward when the bar is pulled.

There is a green ground wire in that area that leads into the engine.

 
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01-24-09, 05:18 PM   #15  
Confirmed today that there is no spark. Do you need a good tug on the rope to see spark? I had my wife pull while I checked for spark, wasn't the usual strong pull on the rope.

 
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01-24-09, 07:32 PM   #16  
Just a decent pull should do. From what I gather so far, it sounds like you need to replace the cable from the handlebar to the kill switch. They usually run less than $15 for most mowers.


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01-24-09, 09:31 PM   #17  
That's what the dude at the parts shop suspected. There definitely is some slack there.

I'll order one.

Thanks.

 
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01-31-09, 03:18 PM   #18  
Just to avoid buying the cable and having the same problem I clamped the lever all the way open and still it won't start.

I removed the shroud and cover to the engine, and I don't see a kill switch attached to the lever, shouldn't I be able to see it?

I think it may have broken off.

 
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02-23-09, 06:44 PM   #19  
Turned out to be a bad coil. It's running now but running fast. I removed the linkage to the throttle when I had the carb off, so I beleive this is where the problem lies. My question is which hole to reconnect the linkage to? The one closest to the carb?

 
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