Tecumseh OH160

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  #1  
Old 08-17-08, 11:45 AM
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Question Tecumseh OH160

The engine pumped out oil smoke for about the first eight minutes until it warmed up. It scared my brother when I had him look at it and he knows more about gasoline engines than I do.

I got a rebuild kit for it, but tearing it down I've hit the same roadblock as Jughead apparently did in 2003. I got a "Universal Valve Spring Removal Tool" which won't work. I have a Yard & Garden Tractor Service Manual First Edition by Intertec, which lists the 670237 tool as the one to use for removing the spring, but that tool is apparently no longer available. I tried making a tool that looks something like the picture in Fig. T70 of the book, but that doesn't work either. The whole thing compresses when I try to do anything and the retainers still can't be accessed in order to pull them out. Please help!
 
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  #2  
Old 08-17-08, 07:29 PM
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Here is a link to the Tecumseh OHV manual. The 670315A valve compressor tool is shown on page 88. I think this is the tool you need and it should be easy to fabricate.

http://www.cpdonline.com/695244a.pdf
 
  #3  
Old 08-18-08, 10:20 AM
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Question OH160 valve spring removal tool fabricated, still have problems.

Thank you for referring me to the Tecumseh manual. I made a tool that should work but the shaft, the spring and the retainers all sink downward into the mounting hole and I still can't get at the retainers to get them out. If the shaft would stay in one place there wouldn't be a problem. I don't think I can compress the spring any further than I've already tried to do. Is the shaft supposed to be mounted solidly?
 
  #4  
Old 08-18-08, 01:48 PM
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Are you talking about the valve stem?

Do you have the head removed from the engine?

If the head is off of the engine you may need to support the valve you are trying to remove on something like a block of wood or a socket so that it will not open when you compress the valve spring.
 
  #5  
Old 08-19-08, 06:58 AM
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Take a deep socket with about the same diameter as the keeper retainer and give it a rap with a hammer. That should loosen the keepers from the retainer enough for your tool to work. Or just hit it enough times untill the keepers pop themselves off then use your tool to reinstall them after your valve job.

I too am in Wi. so if you'd like to use the correct tool I have one and would gladly put it the mail for you to use if you would need it.
 
  #6  
Old 08-19-08, 01:18 PM
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Exclamation OH160 valve & head removal continued.

Thank you 30yeartech and cpeppy for your help.

CPeppy, I used the socket, a long extension, and a 3 pound hammer to rap on the top of the valve caps, and they loosened up just like you said. No valve spring removal tool is even necessary.

According to the Yard and Garden Tractor service manual 1st edition by Intertec that I have, you can't get the head off without removing the valves first. The book shows six mounting bolts holding the head on and you can only get to five so one must be buried under the valve box. We'll soon find out.

Thanks to all the assistance you've given me, we're back moving in the right direction.
 
  #7  
Old 08-19-08, 03:53 PM
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You might have to remove the push rod guide plate, but you should not need to remove the valves in order to remove the head. It can be difficult if not impossible to reinstall the valves with the head installed without special tools.
 
  #8  
Old 08-20-08, 08:38 AM
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Question The next problem.

Thanks for the help on the other problems. The one I have now is getting the front cylinder cover assembly off. I removed 8 bolts which is supposed to be all there is, but the cover will only separate from the block about 1/4" using a small prybar.

The FMC Bolens H16XL parts book doesn't show any bolts holding the cover on behind the electric clutch, but the clutch isn't easily removable due to shoulder screws holding it on that I can't get past the clutch hub so I haven't been able to look behind it. Does the electric clutch have to come off before I can get the front cover off?
 
  #9  
Old 08-20-08, 01:16 PM
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The clutch is keyed and bolted to the crankshaft. You most definitely need to get that off before the crankcase cover will come off. Remove the center bolt. Then is there three nuts with springs behind them..? Take those off and remove that brake plate. Then pull the solid part of the clutch. It'll probably slide off hard. After that comes off you'll see the bolts holding the electrical part of the clutch. Although that doesn't need to be removed to get the cover off. It'll just come along with the cover.
 
  #10  
Old 08-22-08, 10:32 AM
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Question Everything is going splendidly, but...

Thank you for the previous help.
I'm reassembling the engine and have put the new piston and rings in. I'm about to start on the valves and cylinder head. Is there some chemical I can use to clean off the bottom of the head, which has a heavy black crust on it? Engine degreaser did nothing to it.
 
  #11  
Old 08-22-08, 04:57 PM
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I like seafoam to help soften up carbon for cleaning.
 
  #12  
Old 09-27-08, 10:44 AM
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Question Engine reassembled, won't start.

I got everything put back together on this OH160 engine I've been rebuilding, it spins like a top when you go to start it, but it won't fire. I checked it with a spark tester and that seems to be ok. I don't think the fuel pump/carburetor is working right. I have a see through gas filter and there's plenty of gas in it and it ran out when I disconnected the hose at the fuel pump.

I took off the hose that goes from the bottom of the fuel pump to the bottom of the engine block which I wouldn't have had to do, when I was rebuilding but I put that back on. I don't know what the purpose of that one is, maybe vacuum or something? What is on the inside of where that one goes that I could have possibly messed up?

I never had the carburetor off, but I did have to take the bolts out of the intake pipe so I could get the head off. I torqued all of that back to spec when I reinstalled it and I used a new gasket.

Is there some way to see what the carburetor and fuel pump are doing without opening them up?

Thank you for any advice you can offer.
 
  #13  
Old 09-28-08, 05:56 PM
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The hose on the bottom of the pump is for crankcase pulses that operate the diaphragm in the pump. You can remove the fuel hose from the pump to the carburetor and crank over the engine to see if fuel is being pumped, you may want to position the hose in a catch pan or something to contain any fuel that may come out. You might also want to manually prime the engne with fuel to see if it will fire off the prime.
 
  #14  
Old 10-01-08, 08:10 AM
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Unhappy OH160 all signs good, still won't start.

Thank you for getting back to me. I checked the fuel pump and that works right. The carburetor had fuel in it at the time. I checked the spark again and that's all right, but the engine still won't fire. I don't ever crank it for more than 10-15 seconds but there's no sign of firing in that length of time. I've probably tried starting it about 20 times now. I shot starting fluid in the spark plug hole and get the same results after doing that. If I did something wrong around the governor inside would that stop it from starting? A little thimble type part fell off and I put it back on the only way I could get it to go back on and it looked right as far as I could tell from the parts book. Other than that, I'm fresh out of ideas. Thank you in advance for any further advice you can offer.
 
  #15  
Old 10-01-08, 12:28 PM
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No, if your governor is assembled wrong it should not prevent the engine from starting. It might run way to fast if it does start however, so you should be ready for a quick shut down if it does start and take off for the moon!

If you do not have the valves adjusted properly or if you did not get the camshaft timed correctly, then the engine will not start.
 
  #16  
Old 10-14-08, 05:54 PM
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oh160 carburetor problems

I messed up and tried to correct this problem by deleting the thread, but it won't delete! So I apologize for trying to insert a post or new thread at this point in the forum. If someone could help me out on how to remove this thread I'll gladly do so, thanks...
 

Last edited by oldtractorfan; 10-14-08 at 06:44 PM. Reason: wrong entry point
  #17  
Old 10-28-08, 03:45 PM
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Question Tecumseh OH160 Valve Lash adjustment won't hold.

Since I wrote last time, I removed the front cover from the engine to be sure the timing marks lined up and they do. The valve adjustment won't stay in spec after I turn the driveshaft by hand, or crank the engine. I put locknuts on to replace the plain nuts that were on it when I got the tractor. The gap tightens up every time. How can I make the valves stay in adjustment?

Another problem is that the breather tube on top of the valve box wasn't connected to anything and there's a threaded hole on the side of exhaust pipe which didn't have anything in it. Am I correct in assuming that there's supposed to be a hose between those? The Bolens parts manual for the H16XL doesn't show a hose or tube.

Thank you for any advice you can offer.
 
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