Craftmen riding mower. Switched from a B&S engine to a Kohler. Won't stay runnin

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  #1  
Old 08-27-08, 07:41 AM
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Craftmen riding mower. Switched from a B&S engine to a Kohler. Won't stay runnin

I mistakenly offered to help a freind out who ran their craftsmen riding mower (DYT4000) with a Briggs and Stratton 18.5 Intex motor without oil which caused the engine to seize. I found for them a 14.5 hp Kohler command engine and installed the motor and switched the wiring. When i first ran and used the mower (cut about 3 acres) it ran great. When I took the mower to the freinds house I stopped at Sears and bought a new air filter and installed it. Ran for 2 minutes and died. Put the old air filter on and it runs. Cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel filter etc. Will run if you take off the gas cap and blow air into tank through the fuel line. Not sure if this motor has a fuel pump like the Briggs. The place where the mechanical goes is blocked off and is solid in the case. It has a hose going from the cylinder head valve cover to the intake body which I thought might be a type of vacuum system. Could it be the tank has something in it that is blocking the fuel? Vapor lock or do I need a fuel pump? I tried the one off the B&S but it doesn't seem to suck the fuel. The B&S got the vacuum from the oil fill tube. Help me! This is what you get for helping out freinds!!!
 
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Old 08-28-08, 01:16 AM
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Is the tank up higher than the carb, or is it under the seat? If the tank is low, you'll need a fuel pump. Since the block is not made to accept a pump, you may have to install an electric low pressure pump that comes on when the key is turned on. If the tank is up high, then there is evidently a restriction.
 
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Old 08-28-08, 06:30 AM
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Thanks. The tank is under the seat.Where can you get a low pressure fuel pump? Will that push fuel into the carb, cylinder if the key is left on and engine not running? Thanks again
 
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Old 08-29-08, 12:31 AM
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You can pick one up at an auto parts store, just a little 4 psi pump. It shouldn't pump into the carb and cylinder with the key on unless there is a carb problem (leaking inlet needle). If the key were left on and a line came loose or a leak occurred, it could pump all the fuel out of the tank through the leak.

Here's a suggestion...get a regular pump like what was used on the old engine. it should have 3 fuel line fittings on it. Take the valve cover off the kohler and find a spot on it where you can drill a hole, thread it, and install a hose barb for 1/4" hose without interfering with the valve operation in the head. Install the barb and use this for the pressure pulse hose to the fuel line. This will drive the pump like it did on the briggs and you don't have to tamper with wiring a pump that isn't ideal for the situation anyway.
 
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Old 08-29-08, 12:28 PM
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thanks. that is a good idea to ddrill the hole in the valve cover. Do you have any idea which of the three fittings on the B&S fuel pump are vacuum, in and out? I thought about going to sears to see if i could see how one was hooked up. It has the one fitting on front and two on side
 
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Old 08-29-08, 01:42 PM
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If it's like the one on this Briggs engine



The one on the right ( normally bottom) goes to the tank, the left side goes to the carburetor, and the far side goes to the crankcase.
 
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Old 08-29-08, 05:42 PM
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Take a look at this and see if it helps any.

 
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Old 09-03-08, 12:21 PM
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Thanks 30yrtech

That's it! You think I could simply put a T connector off of the rubber hose that goes from the current valve cover to the carb manifold instead of drilling into the valve cover? Or what about drilling and putting a fitting on the oil fill tube like the briggs had? Thanks alot for the picture! I had the all wrong!
 
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Old 09-03-08, 02:08 PM
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You can attach a line just about anywhere you can get crankcase pulse. The breather tube however is too thin and soft, it will expand and contract rather then pass the pulses to the fuel pump, or at least I think it will.
 
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Old 09-03-08, 07:50 PM
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I agree. I suggested the valve cover because it is a place with enough room for the application, it is hard enough material to cut threads in and not have to worry about it stripping, it is thick enough to get a few threads cut into it to hold the barb securely, and it is removeable, so that the shavings from drilling the hole and tapping the threads won't get into the engine. You can wash all that out before putting the valve cover back on. There are only 5 bolts holding it on. A hose barb screwed into the oil fill tube will probably interfere with the dipstick, and also won't have any threads to screw into, so it will get loose and leak.
 
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