Kawasaki FD440V

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  #1  
Old 09-03-08, 11:15 AM
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Kawasaki FD440V

I have John Deere LX178 with a FD440V that will not fire.
30yrtech I found a post you participated in earlier this year on another forum, do you know this particular engine?

I have spark to both plugs, it will not fire with prime to the carb or directly in either or both cylinders.
I worked on the same mower a few weeks back for a battery charging problem. I luckily fixed (it started working rather) after chasing down wires cleaning and reconnecting connectors.

I have not checked compression but plan too.
When it spins it does sound as tho it wants to hit now and again but barely and briefly and never really does fire, almost like a timing issue except there is no kickback or backfire. It doesn't spin any different than a few weeks ago when it ran just fine, except now it does not start at all.

I can't imagine it being out of time or that valves on both sides would be an issue. I do have some although very little experience on these twins, and I know they will run, almost unnoticeable different on one cylinder.

Just trying to formulate a plan before tearing too deep into this if possible. There is a lot to remove to get to any one section.

TIA
 
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  #2  
Old 09-03-08, 02:15 PM
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I would take the valve covers off both sides and spark plugs, then I would turn the engine over by hand and inspect the valve operation on both cylinders. If nothing jumps out, then I would check the valve lash to make sure it's within specs.

If your getting spark and it won't fire off with a prime, I have to think there is something wrong with the valve train somewhere.
 
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Old 09-03-08, 03:06 PM
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I put a compression gauge on each cylinder and got all of 30lbs. Not real confident in my gauge I did pull the rocker covers and found both intake pushrods flappin in the breeze. Both are bent.
I haven't determined yet whether either or both valves are stuck or some other internal problem has occured.

Of course it is a John Deere priotory engine so I can not find even a parts break down.

Can I make any determination on the valves without removing the heads?
I have not applied any great force but was able to compress the springs and the valve did not move. The intake valves are sitting about a 1/4" lower than the exhaust...unsure if that points to anything or not just an observation.

I am going to speak with the owner and see what the circumstance was when it quit, or did not start...

Any suggestions would be much appreciated

One more question, do you know if these are hydraulic lifters?
Last time I worked on this mower I told the owner the oil and filter needed changed badly and they chose to do it themselves which did not happen. It is not low nor was it then but it certainly has lost any lubricity it once may have had and more the viscosity of diesel than oil.
The specs do call for a 5W30 for cold weather, which we here the the Willamete Valley of the Pac Northwest never get.
 
  #4  
Old 09-03-08, 04:58 PM
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Most of the time bent push rods can be attributed to dirt, and or low oil levels. Old gas can also cause the intake valves to stick, and if they are just way out of adjustment, the push rods can fall off and get hung up and they will bend that way also.

The lifters on this engine are solid, and I will let you in on a little secret. Valve train parts for any Kawasaki built FD440 engine will fit the Kawasaki engine on a John Deere.

You can look up parts at the Kawsaki site ( www.buykawpower.com ) or the John Deere Parts site ( http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/c...ageServlet_Alt )
 
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Old 09-03-08, 07:31 PM
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Something you might want to check: These engines had some trouble with camshafts. There was a production run from serial # x to serial # x (I don't have the numbers, but a quick search on the net should produce them) when they used fiber camshaft gears. These gears would strip and cause the problems you are exhibiting.
 
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Old 09-03-08, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 30yearTech View Post
Most of the time bent push rods can be attributed to dirt, and or low oil levels. Old gas can also cause the intake valves to stick, and if they are just way out of adjustment, the push rods can fall off and get hung up and they will bend that way also.

The lifters on this engine are solid, and I will let you in on a little secret. Valve train parts for any Kawasaki built FD440 engine will fit the Kawasaki engine on a John Deere.

You can look up parts at the Kawsaki site ( www.buykawpower.com ) or the John Deere Parts site ( http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/c...ageServlet_Alt )
Thanks for the infor Tech. I had checked both sites, the kawpower said to see the OEM for parts but there is another fd440 engine listed with a different spec # it did allow me to access. The deere sight only lists a short block replacement in their details.
Do you think it would be worth simply trying a new set of push rods and setting the clearance?
 
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Old 09-03-08, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cheese View Post
Something you might want to check: These engines had some trouble with camshafts. There was a production run from serial # x to serial # x (I don't have the numbers, but a quick search on the net should produce them) when they used fiber camshaft gears. These gears would strip and cause the problems you are exhibiting.
Thanks Cheese,
I take it the gear you mean is the one that would be driven by the crank to rotate the cam? Which would mean tearing down the engine. Is this gear part of the cam or a separate part?

I did some searching on this engine and did not run across anything like this, but I will do some more research.

Thanks for the input.
 
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Old 09-04-08, 01:15 AM
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Maybe I spoke too soon....I just did a little searching for specifics. From what I gather, yours is not one of the models that came with the fiber cam. I thought all the water cooled twins were affected, but apparently the FD440V wasn't one of them, according to what I've seen so far. Looks like the plastic gear got used in the FD510 and larger models.
 
  #9  
Old 09-04-08, 05:29 AM
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Well you will definately need new push rods. I would install them and set the lash, then do a close inspection of the valve operation, rotating the engine slowly by hand with the spark plugs removed and see if valve operation looks alright. Pay special attention to the valve guides, making sure that they are not loose in the head. Take a look at the seals on the valve guides for damage.

Be sure to change the oil before running,
 
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Old 09-13-08, 11:54 AM
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Ok I got the new push rods. I went to put them in and the clearance was so much that they would not adjust out. I could compress the valve springs but not the valves. I tapped the valves with a wooden dowel and they don't come back up

I can't really see any sort of damage to the guides but not real sure if I am seeing the guides with the springs still in.

Other than the obvious indepth dis-assembly, are there any knacks to pulling heads on these?
 
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Old 09-14-08, 07:23 AM
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My suspicion would be that the valve guides have come loose in the head and dropped down or the valve is binding in the guide. In either case you will have to pull the heads to investigate this issue.

To pull the head(s) you will have to remove the blower housing, exhaust and intake manifolds.
 
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Old 09-22-08, 12:09 PM
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I have removed the heads and able to remove both intake valves which were indeed stuck. The guides appear to still be solidly in place. The only thing I can see is that there was varnish build up on the valve stems which cleaned up very easy with some carb cleaner. The valves now move freely.Other than carbon and varnish I can see nothing wrong.
Other than cleanup, gaskets and lapping, is there any more minimum I should do, replace, verify?
 
  #13  
Old 09-22-08, 02:48 PM
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I would recommend new valve guide seals, valve guide lubricant, and since you have the valves out, I would decarbon and lap valves in.
 
  #14  
Old 09-22-08, 08:21 PM
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I'd also like to add that often when I see valves stuck in their guides like that, it is accompanied by stale fuel in the tank. Might want to check, and drain it out before running it again so you don't get 'em stuck again.
 
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Old 09-23-08, 09:10 AM
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Thanks for the replies,
I considered the factors which most likely led to this.
To begin with this mower is used to mow less than one acre that have 3, 2k sq ft + houses, with a large concrete drive to each, so it never gets worked to say the least. The oil has never been changed since new and while it is kept inside a finished garage, I would venture to say it may never use more than 2 tanks of gas a season.
The owner is a member in my church who's husband passed several years ago. I will be sure to address regular maintenance schedule with her.
I recall her mentioning that she has had it for 17years...? Not sure this model is that old but then I am not a big JD fan due to their proprietary and service aspect.
Thanks again for the coaching
 
  #16  
Old 05-04-09, 08:44 AM
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Is there a specific procedure or compensation in setting the valve lash on this engine to allow for compression release or any other such critter?

Specs would be nice also if anyone has em on top of their head
 
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