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Honda Harmony 2 Belt drive replacement


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09-20-08, 04:38 PM   #1  
Honda Harmony 2 Belt drive replacement

I have a Honda Harmony 2 belt drive hydrostatic lawnmower. The belt drive belt broke today and I can't figure out how to get a new one installed. I have removed the left rear wheel, unbolted the access cover under the mower housing and swung it to the side, but I can't move the transmission or open up the area to the pulley attached to the motor. I also can't see how to get the belt into the pully on the transmission. Anybody able to help. A diagram would really be helpful if possible.

 
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09-20-08, 08:09 PM   #2  
What model is it? __________________


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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09-20-08, 08:57 PM   #3  
Model #

The lawnmower deck says "Harmony 215" and under that says "5.0". Isn't that just a reference to the HP?

The lawnmower is about 14-15 years old.

Thank you,

 
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09-21-08, 06:47 AM   #4  
Full model number for repair information

I just found our paperwork for the mower:

Model: Honda HRM215K2HX
Frame & Serial#: MZBB-6304407
Engine#:: 6732326

Purchased 4/7/95

I have googled and can't find a service or shop manual and can't find any information for how to work on this thing. From what I could tell, this forum is my best shot.

Thanks for looking into this.

 
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09-21-08, 08:08 AM   #5  
You have the unit with the compsite deck correct?

The rear baffle needs to be removed from the mower deck to access the transmission. To do this you need to remove two rear engine mounting bolts as this also holds this baffle in, then there is a bolt pretty much in the middle of the baffle that screws up into the discharge chute area, this bolt needs to be removed (look in the chute area directly above this bolt and you will see a threaded plate that sits in a depression in the chute, sometimes you need to spray some lube on it as they can get corrosion on them). Finally there is a bolt on the left side of the mower deck behind the drive wheel; this one needs to be removed as well as the spacer underneath the bolt. Once these mounting bolts have been removed then you can pull the baffle down and out of the mower.

With the baffle out, you will have access to the transmission and can rotate the transmission forward to gain slack in the drive belt for removal and installation. There should be a spring that hooks on the top of the transmission and extends back to a tab on the mower deck. this spring pulls back on the transmission to keep tension on the belt once installed.

Once the new belt in on the transmission then just reinstall the baffle and you should be good to go.

Best of Luck...

 
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09-21-08, 11:43 AM   #6  
I must not be seeing something

I couldn't completely remove the bolt that goes up into the chute discharge. I guess it is corroded like you said, but I was able to rotate it to the side. How do you get the belt onto the drive pulley directly under the engine (where the blade attaches)? It looks like part of the metal structure is in the way. If the belt wasn't continuous, I could thread it through. I'm also having trouble releasing the spring that would allow the transmission to rotate so I can have access to that pulley.

I don't know if it would help, but is there a way I could attach jpegs to this text?

Thanks,

 
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09-21-08, 11:53 AM   #7  
It's been awhile since I have replaced the belt on a mower with a blade brake clutch, I do not remember if the clutch must be removed to install a new drive belt or not. Perhaps another reader will post on that aspect.

You do not need to remove the spring, just rotate the transmission assembly in a forward direction to get enough slack in the belt to remove.

If you have an online photo storage such as flickr or photobucket, you can post photos there and place a link in your post for us to view.

 
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09-21-08, 01:21 PM   #8  
Blade clutch in the way

I see that I can get the belt over the pulley on the transmission now, but you are right, the blade clutch is in the way of putting the belt on the that pulley. I don't see a way to get the blade clutch off. Is it better to remove the last two mounting bolts for the engine, pull the engine and put the belt on then? I think it will go on if I do that, but if there is a simpler way to do it, I would gladly go that route.

 
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09-22-08, 08:54 PM   #9  
The clutch can be easily removed. I am trying to remember, but I think the blade is held on by 2 14mm or 15mm bolts, then you will have access to the center bolt that holds the clutch in place. There are some other linkages and a spring to contend with during clutch removal.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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09-22-08, 09:34 PM   #10  
Good memory....you are exactly correct! The only problem is that when I try to remove the center bolt, it turns the crankshaft in the engine. At least if feels like it does. I can feel compression strokes as I rotate the bolt. How do I deal with that?

I found a site where you can see exploded diagrams of the Honda Lawn Mowers. This link is to the one for my lawnmower:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ho...ING/parts.html

This is a list of the parts diagrams for my lawnmower:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ho...200/parts.html

This is a list of all the Honda Lawnmowers before 1997:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ho...R/0/parts.html

Thank you for your help, Cheese.

 
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09-22-08, 09:38 PM   #11  
Cheese, this is the diagram showing the brake clutch:

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ho...ADE/parts.html

Trouble is, I still can't figure this out. What do you think?

 
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09-22-08, 09:52 PM   #12  
30yearTech, do you have any thoughts after seeing the links to diagrams I posted in the last reply to thread?

Thank you for all of your help, so far. I can't wait to get this problem solved.....it's driving me nuts!

 
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09-23-08, 07:26 AM   #13  
Well I gotta admit, I looked at the parts breakdown before I started commenting. The illustrations are just not clear enough for me to determine if removal is necessary or not, and it's been so long since I have replaced one, I just can't remember.

Yes when you turn the center bolt the crankshaft will spin, you may have to hold the flywheel on the top of the engine, in order to remove the clutch retaining bolt, or if you have an impact wrench (that's how I do it) to remove. The bolts should have 14mm heads on them.

 
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09-23-08, 09:21 PM   #14  
You are right. A sharp whack on the socket wrench broke the brake clutch bolt loose without turning the engine crankshaft. It took a puller to remove the clutch and pulley since they had been on so long. What a relief!

The pulley is worn so thin that the outer bottom lip broke off in places, so I have to get a new pulley.

Anybody know the torque ratings for the brake clutch bolts?

Thanks for all of your help!

 
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09-23-08, 09:28 PM   #15  
Good job. I usually use an impact to get them off as well. Sounds like you found the problem, and are on the way to getting it fixed. Make sure you get the center bolt good and tight when you put it back together. I don't have torque values for the clutch parts.


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09-23-08, 09:36 PM   #16  
Thank you. You all have been a big help! Hopefully, I'm done with all the questions! I'll let you know when I get done.

 
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09-25-08, 02:24 AM   #17  
I got everything back together and it runs great going forward, but now it is extremely hard to turn since the wheel on the inside of the turn locks up or doesn't freewheel. Also, when pulling the mower backwards, with the drive disengaged, the right wheel usually locks up so that you are leaving a skid mark as you drag it backwards. What is going on? (I just replaced a badly worn pulley with a new one that had a new brake surface on it too. It also got a new belt.) Could the new brake surface not be releasing so that the wheels can turn going backwards? I've tried readjusting the cable, but it must be stretched because it is at the outer limit and can't be adjusted any further. This shouldn't have anything to do with the locked wheel when backing up I don't think?

 
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09-25-08, 09:22 AM   #18  
One of your wheels is not releasing from the axle, either the drive gear is reinstalled with the wrong orientation or the gear is binding on the axle. At least that would be my best guess.

 
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