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Honda HT3813


N_O_MAN's Avatar
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09-26-08, 06:42 PM   #1  
Honda HT3813

I have a question. I replaced a pulley on the tensioner side [right foot side} now all of the sudden when I engage the cutting deck the mower dies out. what do I do now to get it running
??GI2


oh yeah what is the gap size on the spark plugs???????????????????

 
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09-27-08, 12:39 AM   #2  
Can you turn the blades by hand? Does the engine die struggling like it is bogged down, or quickly, like the key was turned off? This is the water cooled honda with the idlers placed vertically under the front frame of the mower, right?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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09-27-08, 07:54 AM   #3  
Yes I can turn the blades both ways. turning it the the cutting way it is alot harder to turn.When you engage the blabes it kills off slowly over about 30 seconds. Yeah it is the water cooled motor.

 
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09-27-08, 11:53 AM   #4  
Did this unit run OK before you changed this pulley ?

If so, You may have installed the pulley up side down or dropped a shim washer shimming it away from the bracket thus locking it up when tightened.

 
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09-27-08, 02:54 PM   #5  
would that still be true if it spun easily before i put the pulley back on? the reason im replacing it is because the bearing was gone. and on putting it upside down, there was an imprint on it that said out. so i put it out.

 
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09-27-08, 03:47 PM   #6  
Posted By: N_O_MAN would that still be true if it spun easily before i put the pulley back on?
The question is, Does the pulley spin freely installed on the unit ?

Also, You didn't answer this;

Did this unit run OK before you changed this pulley ?

 
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09-27-08, 05:58 PM   #7  
I bought this mower mowed my yard once before i ran in to this problem. it rus ok but has a stutters. i took off the tensioner arm, replaced the pulley, then put the tensioner arm back on. replaced the belt and that is where i am sitting right now.

 
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09-27-08, 09:18 PM   #8  
What about the questions 31Ytech asked?

When you say the blade is harder to turn one way than the other, it sounds like you have bearings going bad in the blade mandrels. Can you give the blade a spin and it keep spinning after you let it go (with the belt off)?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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09-28-08, 08:08 AM   #9  
OK,

I was trying to wing this by not looking your unit up (been a while since I worked on this unit).

After gandering I suggest you follow as Mr. Cheese suggest, Remove both the deck drive (engine to deck) belt and the cross belt (connecting the two blade spindles together).

At that point free spin the blade spindles checking for any binding or sloppiness in the bearings. Do the same with the double idler pulley toward the rear/center of the deck, Also do the same with the single idler pulley on the pivot arm toward the center/front of the deck.

Check the two idler pulleys for the deck drive belt (front lower part of the tractor frame) for the same (binding/looseness), And while both belts are loose check the inside surfaces (The sides of the "V" area) for any flat spots or burn marks.

Performing the above checks should lead you to the problem area, Providing the PTO clutch it's self is functioning properly.

BTW, It's normal for a twin blade deck set-up to spin a little harder one direction than the other, It's due to the spring loaded idler system......

Good Luck

 
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09-28-08, 12:25 PM   #10  
i dropped the deck gave the blades a spin and no binding. no sticking, smooth spinning. All the pulley spins freely with the belt off. the unit ran fine before, except for the studder. but thats a diffrent story.

 
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09-28-08, 12:53 PM   #11  
as far as the studder that i am getting. I replaced the plugs which was sutted over. pulled the air filter off the carb, and cranked the mower. from the carb there is a little bit of gas that blows out towards the air filter with the engine running full blast.

 
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09-28-08, 01:17 PM   #12  
Posted By: N_O_MAN the unit ran fine before , except for the studder. but thats a diffrent story.

Hmmm, We're really having to work at this one !

Let's talk about this "studder" a little.....

Are you referring to the way the engine is running ?

Idling or when revved up ?
RPM's raising and lowing randomly ?
Just flat out skipping/missing/running bad ?

It's possible since you say you replaced a deck belt that the old belt was slipping (not applying full load) to the poorly running engine, But the new belt is and now dragging the poorly running engine down.

Another thing that comes to mind is the safety switch on the deck engagement handle assembly being faulty (could shut the engine down), But that would be coincidence since it's no where near the belt/pulley area you were working.

This could be easily checked by engaging the deck handle with the belt off to eliminate it as a possible problem.

Didn't see your last post, Does the engine run any better with the new plugs ?

Black plugs is a sign of running too rich, Could be a non-seating float needle valve or a spec of trash under it......The fuel spit-back out of the carb sounds like the valves may need adjusting once the carb float valve is confirmed seating.

 
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09-28-08, 10:30 PM   #13  
I'm thinking needle not seating as well, because of the sooty plugs and fuel spitback. I think your carb is flooding the engine out. I'm guessing you've got black exhaust that burns your eyes and isn't fun to breathe...


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09-29-08, 05:02 AM   #14  
31YTech it was a pulley i replaced not a belt. and as far as the black exaust it really isnt that bad. its black at start up and the seldom from there. i put some carb and injector cleaner in it and then ran it for a few hours to see if it was that. but it still studders. and after i took off the deck and replaced it making sure all the belts werent twisted, turned it on, engaged the deck and it was working. not killing out. so hopefully the cutting deck is taken care of.

still not running any better with the plugs changed.

 
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09-29-08, 07:46 PM   #15  
This is where I got the belt change;

then put the tensioner arm back on [ . ] replaced the belt and that is where i am sitting right now.

I'll bet if you take the new plugs back out you will find them black, I believe your fix will be removing the carb bowl then the float and either cleaning or replacing the float needle valve.

It sounds like it's not seating and causing a rich fuel mixture to the cylinder which could account for the fuel mist blowing into the air filter.


Good Luck

 
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