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TORO Blade brake pad


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10-16-08, 06:15 PM   #1  
TORO Blade brake pad

I have a Toro Model 56138 Ser #60001 and up "1986" that has had the blade pulley on the deck drive eat thru the blade brake pad. I have a Toro replacement pad, and two brass rivets (also Toro parts) These are not "pop" rivets, and have to be peened over to seat the pad on its "shoe" I'm not sure how to do this with the tools I have. Im looking for a suggestion as to how to do this without buying a hundred dollar special tool to use only once. Ideas?

 
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10-16-08, 08:51 PM   #2  
Get something just the right size to fit on the head of the rivet like a small socket, then assemble the parts, set the socket on a solid spot (anvil-type surface, concrete, etc...), place the head of the rivet on the socket while holding the parts together in assembled position, and peen the other end of the rivet with a ball-peen hammer.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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10-17-08, 05:18 AM   #3  
Toro Brake Pad

I was afraid someone would say that. I was hoping that I wouldnt have to disassemble the mechanism any further. (it's all spring loaded) But I hear you.

Thanks!

 
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10-20-08, 05:30 PM   #4  
Toro Brake Pad

Mission accomplished. I was wondering why a pop rivet wouldn't have worked here too. Durability?

 
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10-20-08, 11:10 PM   #5  
A pop rivet might have worked if the rivet gun could fit in the recess where the rivet head would have gone. A pop rivet might have worked loose easily though. Glad you got it!


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10-21-08, 06:36 PM   #6  
Toro Brake Pad

I put the new brake assembly back in place, and replaced the deck drive belt. I cannot adjust the deck drive belt according to the manual. (spring loaded turnbuckle needs to move a small bar to within .60 of the front edge of a slot) I cannot move the bar with the turnbuckle completely turned .60 off the REAR of the adjustment slot. The only other thing I can replace is a spring attached to some linkage the front turnbuckle attaches to, and the spring in the middle of the Turnbuckle assembly. Ideas?

 
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10-21-08, 10:46 PM   #7  
So you're saying that you've adjusted the turnbuckle to it's limit, and still the belt is too loose? Are you using the correct number OEM belt?


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10-22-08, 05:15 AM   #8  
Toro Belt

Absolutely. I went to the Toro Distributor and even took the NAPA belt that was on it when I got it with me. (that one wouldn't let me adjust it as well) It would work to get the blade moving, but when I released it, it would throw the belt off the clutch in the rear. I know I need to adjust the guides back there too, but I wanted to get adjusted up front first. It is the correct Toro belt. My thought is that if the spring I see up under the frame is 22 years old, and it puts tension on the hanger that the deck turnbuckle fastens to, it is at least one of the culprits in the adjustment process, but my logic is sometimes faulty. It was a good comment though, I hate will-fit parts for MOST of my applications!

 
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10-23-08, 01:37 AM   #9  
Usually springs, at least those used in lawnmower applications, retain their tension adequately throughout the life of the mower and then some.

This is the little rear-engine rider with a 30" deck and a 8 or 10 hp briggs behind the seat, right? If so, I recall that the entire deck slides forward and backward to tighten and release the blade belt, correct? I've seen these with belt problems, and there were so many parts with moderate to excessive wear that it was nearly impossible to make it all work as it originally did, but some adjusting, tinkering, and going to a shorter belt size usually get things back in working order. I never fixed one back to spec condition, since the owners didn't want to spend much on an older mower.


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10-23-08, 06:43 PM   #10  
Toro Belt

Correct on the first two sentences of your reply. Since I've owned this mower for some time, and the constant belt throwing and torn up brake pad is new in the life of this machine, I figured I had SOME part failure that I was just missing. Im going to give the spring a shot, and then it goes to a shorter belt and we're done.

Thanks for your advice!

 
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10-23-08, 08:06 PM   #11  
I'm reaching hard into my memory, so I might not be correct, but it seems like the most recent one I worked on with that problem was pretty well worn where the adjustment turnbuckle linkage connects. The holes were worn so that the entire assembly was floppy loose and couldn't take up the necessary slack. Also all the linkages and connecting arms that move were pretty worn. Combining the slack from all the linkages probably amounted to an inch or more of lost range of motion. I considered welding metal back into the places where it was worn, but didn't. Got it working with a 4L belt of a slightly shorter length and adjusted the turnbuckle to accommodate the belt.


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10-24-08, 05:30 AM   #12  
Toro Belt

I hear you on the worn connecting points, but I haven't seen any of that so far. (Believe me, I have seen what you are talking about on other machines) and it doesn't take much when all of the connecting points that are supposed to be round are egg shaped. (even a little) I'll get into the system this weekend and see what else I find that's a possible culprit.

Thanks for your advice!

 
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