Big problem with Sears/18.5 Kohler Magnum

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-24-08, 11:28 AM
drchilie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7
Cool Big problem with Sears/18.5 Kohler Magnum

My yard tractor has been working great all summer, but when I went to use it after a 2-3 week layup - it would not start. when I went to check the battery terminals I found the battery lying on its side. All the battery juice had leaked on the back of the mower block and there was white encrusted junk everywhere. The solenoid and the starter would not work - just click. I put hooked up my big trolling motor battery and got the starter to click, but not engage, I pulled the block cover off and can not get the flywheel to turn even with the sparkplusgs out. I do not see how the mower could have frozen up so quick. Can the electric clutch keep the engine from spinning? The mower is a Sears model# 917251481. I hope someone can help me, as I am determined to get this much loved mower going again.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-24-08, 12:27 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
Yes, the clutch can lock up the engine if it is rusted/stuck. Mix baking soda in water and soak all the areas that have the white corrosion to neutralize the acid and stop it from further deteriorating. Then buy a can or two of PBlaster and start soaking the rusted/corroded areas. You may have to break the engine loose with a flex handle or take the pto clutch off.
 
  #3  
Old 10-24-08, 01:50 PM
drchilie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7
Looking for help with sears lawn tractor

thanks so much cheese, I think I messed up the solenoid, so will replace along with the red cables, maybe the starter also after I work on the possible stuck pisotn and the acid neutralization. I am determined to fix this tractor, but if that does not work there will be some good parts for sale on ebay. Would you spell out the chemical to wash off the acid. I just broke the pistons loose on an old outboard motor so I have some experience with that, but will check out the clutch first. The whole problem may have been caused by bad cables and solenoid. Thanks again. drchilie
 
  #4  
Old 10-25-08, 12:24 PM
drchilie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7
KOHLER MAGNUM -pulled clutch and engine is loose

GOOD NEWS cheese! The engine on the Sears model 917251481 is NOT frozen. I just pulled the deck, deck drive pully, and the electric clutch. The electric clutch is locked. Is it locked when it has no electrical current or is it supposed to be free? The engine loosen up as soon as the electric was pulled. How can I test the clutch? It was not hit as hard by the battery acid, but the deck drive pully below it was hit hard. I am afraid to shoot 12 volts into it from my powerful Interstate trolling battery - please advise. Sears lists the clutch for $260 + shipping. So far I need a solenoid, cables, starter, and cluch. Help is appreciated. PS: a hydrometer test on the battery that leaked show 2 dead cells, so I will buy one of those also.
 
  #5  
Old 10-25-08, 11:50 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
The center part that key to the crankshaft should be free to turn, but the pulley on the clutch shouldn't with or without the clutch energized. Does the keyed part turn?

12 volts from the trolling motor battery won't hurt it.
 
  #6  
Old 03-07-09, 07:28 AM
drchilie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7
UPDATE to Repair on 18.5 Sears model 917251481

[6 months later]: I have gone over the wiring, installed a new battery, solenoid, and starter; and the old Kohler 18.5 Magnun fired right up. I saved and bought a new electric clutch. It looks just like the old one, except the shaft is free to turn.

[U]SO how do I insall the new clutch? SPECIFICALLY:> do I put the oval shaped dog bolt into the next oval shaped counter clockwise from where the wiring harness comes out. This is the only part of the steps when I removed the old clutch that I can't remember. It makes sense that the clutch itself should not turn as it is keyed and has the wiring harness coming out of it. A new clutch locator bracket came with it, but I assume I would use the oval bolt with no threads that is already there. If I get this wrong it will be a $300 mistake. HELP.
 
  #7  
Old 03-07-09, 09:16 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
The oval bolt you mentioned should have a worn notch where the old clutch rubbed it. It fits through a hole in the clutch or a notch in the clutch to keep it from turning with the engine. Align the key with the keyway and the hole with the oval bolt, and install it. Make sure the clutch can't turn, and you're set.

Did you buy the $260 clutch or shop around? $260 is a lot... they can be had for around $80-$100
 
  #8  
Old 03-07-09, 12:55 PM
drchilie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7
Thanks for the reply

Thanks Cheese for the fast reply. I will put it on next week and let you know. I read under full size warner tractor clutches that the long bolt has to be torqued, is that true for this little clutch? PS.I buy all I can from online stores but Sears actually charged $260 + shipping.
 
  #9  
Old 03-07-09, 07:05 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
I think the importance of the torque in this application is just to be sure you don't have it too loose. If it's too loose, it can damage the crank, clutch, or both. I think the torque is 50-55 ft lbs. A little more than that won't hurt, I think they just want to be sure it's not too loose rather than too tight.
 
  #10  
Old 03-09-09, 08:24 PM
drchilie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7
another question please

does the projection (spacer?) om the splined drive pully go up or down. I think it went down against the top of the electric clutch???
 
  #11  
Old 03-10-09, 09:50 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
Put it on and see which way makes the transmission belt line up straight. You might be able to tell just by looking at the belt guides to see where they are in relation to the pulley when it is installed.
 
  #12  
Old 03-14-09, 12:18 PM
drchilie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 7
Smile A big thanks to mr. Cheese

I jBeer 4U2ust completed testing the mower and everything is working. I have engineered a battery tiedown. Just a few more twicks like putting in a new valve stem., cleaning the carb jets, and probably need a few new belts but will wait until one breaks. I ground the rust off the mower deck and painted it with rustoleum primer and engin paint. Ther are a few rust hole but I hope it lasts 6 more years (I will be 75 and will retire from mowing then. Thanks loads of your thoughtful and knowledgeable responses - Cheese
 
  #13  
Old 03-14-09, 09:28 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,814
Great! GLad we could help. Maybe you can get 6 more years out of it. If you run into trouble, you know where we are!
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes