Diagnosis?
#1
Diagnosis?
My TroyBilt pressure washer won't run. B&S 4.5 hp engine. It will turn over after a few tries I press the bulb 3 times, runs only a few seconds. I changed the plug, changed out the fuel, and cleaned the air cleaner. It's like it's not getting fuel after the squirts are used up. How to diagnose?
#2
You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts.
Here we go;
Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble) with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem. Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo
Here we go;
Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble) with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem. Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo
#4
Post the enginge Model, type and code usually found on the engine shroud just above the spark plug. If it has the plastic carb that sets on the fuel tank the diaphram kit will fix it and should cost between $3 and $5. Have a good one. Geo
#5
No luck
I've installed the new diaphragm and cleaned the carburator with brake cleaner per the instructions, but almost no improvement - it runs maybe a second longer and starts two times per 3 squirts instead of only once. I've actually done the whole procedure twice.
Any suggestions for next steps?
Any suggestions for next steps?
#7
Nevermind I let it sit an hour and it's starting and staying started now.
Thanks for all your help! Esp. geogrubb - those were the clearest directions I've ever worked with.
Thanks for all your help! Esp. geogrubb - those were the clearest directions I've ever worked with.