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Please help me get this snowblower auger pulley off!


Catamount's Avatar
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12-02-08, 08:35 AM   #1  
Please help me get this snowblower auger pulley off!

I need to replace the auger bearing on my Craftsman 12.5 HP blower but in order to do so have to get the auger pulley off first. I can't seem to get it to budge and I've used PB, heat, a pulley puller and a LARGE lever.

I'm guessing I'm doing something wrong. This blower is only about 5 years old and I can't imagine rust is holding it that tight.

Any ideas?





The pulley in question is #480 in this diagram. It looks like besides the washer and nut holding it onto the shaft, it should just come right out?

It's driving me nuts!


 
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12-02-08, 11:28 AM   #2  
Any bolts holding the pulley to the shaft?

 
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12-02-08, 11:52 AM   #3  
What if you put the nut back on loosly and wacked the end of the shaft hard with a brass hammer? Might even put some metal between the back of the pulley and the housing..........

 
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12-02-08, 12:08 PM   #4  
Posted By: indypower Any bolts holding the pulley to the shaft?
No, no set screws. I was hoping it would be that easy!

 
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12-02-08, 02:36 PM   #5  
shaft damage ?

Was the shaft damaged ? Looks like a small key next to the 1/4 ? The Shop I go to uses an impac driver on the shaft and support the pulley.

 
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12-02-08, 02:44 PM   #6  
Posted By: 560Dennis Was the shaft damaged ? Looks like a small key next to the 1/4 ? The Shop I go to uses an impac driver on the shaft and support the pulley.
That key is just preventing the pulley from spinning without the shaft, right?

It is not actually preventing the pulley from sliding off of the shaft?

I simply can't figure out how that pulley got on, and how it comes off.

 
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12-02-08, 03:53 PM   #7  
Looks like the shaft has mushroomed,or some foreign substance is wedged between the shaft and pulley bushing.

I don't have a answer any better than those posted.

 
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12-02-08, 04:25 PM   #8  
try using and air chisel with a pointed tip on it. put that large lever back under the pulley and apply pressure. then put the point of the chisel in the middle of the shaft. usually the vibrations will help it come loose.

 
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12-02-08, 06:12 PM   #9  
Posted By: Catamount That key is just preventing the pulley from spinning without the shaft, right?

It is not actually preventing the pulley from sliding off of the shaft?

I simply can't figure out how that pulley got on, and how it comes off.

The key does prevent the pulley from spinning on the shaft and, theoretically, should not prevent the removal of the pulley from the shaft (the key should come out too). But its possible that the key has become distorted or is acting almost like a little wedge which is preventing the pulley from sliding off.

Have you tried heat (propane torch) AND puller/lever? You want to apply the heat to the pulley (near the shaft) not the shaft as you want the pulley material to expand more than the shaft and create more clearance for so it can be removed.

Paul

 
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12-03-08, 03:49 AM   #10  
put the nut back on leaving it a bit loose, maybe one thread away from bottoming out. (not touching the pulley). elevate the assembly and support the pulley from underneath with two supports so the auger is free to move towards the floor. hitting the nut squarely should free the pulley. you need a hammer that can move the shaft and anything attached. a tack hammer would have little or no effect. a little heat might help. heat the pulley only. when you reassemble use antiseize compound on the shaft and nut.

 
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12-03-08, 05:20 AM   #11  
Thanks guys, I have been trying heat on the shaft and pulley. I will try throwing heat at the pulley only.

Will keep you posted!

 
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12-03-08, 11:50 AM   #12  
i had to do the same thing on the same machine
i heated the pulley really good and i threw cold water on it and it came off easy
the bearing is going to be hard to get off
i had to break it in pieces for the impeller shaft to come out of the housing
and then i had to cut the inner bearing part off
i haven't got the new bearing yet
i was told that i will need to tap the new bearing
slowly on the shaft with maybe a steel pipe the same diameter as the inner bearing part
because it's going to be a very snug fit

 
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12-03-08, 12:06 PM   #13  
Deerefan, you have a 12.5 HP Craftsman as well? I'm not thrilled with this machine!

Two of the three nuts holding the bearing in place came off and one is stuck behind the impeller housing which is what is requiring me to do this job in the first place! A terrible design if you ask me.

So you heated it up and then tossed cold water on it and it pulled right off? May I ask what the cold water does? I'm new to this kind of stuff.

Thanks.

Posted By: deerefan i had to do the same thing on the same machine
i heated the pulley really good and i threw cold water on it and it came off easy
the bearing is going to be hard to get off
i had to break it in pieces for the impeller shaft to come out of the housing
and then i had to cut the inner bearing part off
i haven't got the new bearing yet
i was told that i will need to tap the new bearing
slowly on the shaft with maybe a steel pipe the same diameter as the inner bearing part
because it's going to be a very snug fit

 
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12-03-08, 01:25 PM   #14  
mine is a 8.5 machine
heat expands it and cold water shrinks it
kinda like jogging it loose
i had same problem with one of the nuts
i used a flat head in between the housing and bearing retainer while removing the nut
it worked for me
and again i doubt that the bearing will come off easy,just break the seal where the steel balls are
and pry out the balls, the shaft will come out
you may have to cut the inner ring part off the shaft with sharp chisel
it's like everything else, they make it harder for we to do our own repairs on anything anymore
also you now have to order parts and pay shipping from sears because they no longer stock parts at your local store
but murray made the machine if model number starts with 536 they also made the machines for john deere (TRS series) they can order murray parts if they don't have it in stock and shipping is cheaper than sears
take your old bearing to a john deere dealer or any other snow thrower dealers and see if they have the bearing but make sure you save the inner and outer rings for matching
good luck to you


Last edited by deerefan; 12-03-08 at 01:40 PM.
 
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12-04-08, 05:43 AM   #15  
Deerefan thank you VERY MUCH.

I FINALLY got that pulley off after about 10 heat cycles and lots of banging. I couldn't believe how hard it was. I pretty much destroyed the pulley in the process.

Thankfully I was able to drag the bearing out pretty easily with one of those three-armed pulley removers.

Now to find a replacement. And I guess order parts from murray or sears.

Do you happen to know the right way to get a bearing back onto that shaft? Drive it on with a pipe? I don't want to damage the new bearing while putting it on.

My machine does start with a 536.

Thanks a lot!

 
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12-04-08, 08:45 AM   #16  
Here is another potential problem I just thought about. You know those three screws that hold the bearing retainer in place?

Those can't be tightened until the bearing is in place. So they have to somehow be held in place the entire time you're banging the bearing into position. And since you can't access them from behind (impelled) there is a very good chance that the vibration could shake them loose while you're getting the bearing tight.

I have no idea how I'm going to solve that.

 
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12-04-08, 09:09 AM   #17  
Just did one of them. Go to your local hardware store. Bring 1 of the bolts. Get "push nuts" that fit the bolts. Push nuts are thin washers that look something like a flat washer except they have cuts or slots around the inside edge. You put the bolt thru the hole, then push the nut on the threads using a deep socket.
This will hold the bolt in place during assembly. They are thin, so they wont ad space.

 
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12-04-08, 09:43 AM   #18  
Posted By: Catamount Deerefan thank you VERY MUCH.

I FINALLY got that pulley off after about 10 heat cycles and lots of banging. I couldn't believe how hard it was. I pretty much destroyed the pulley in the process.

Thankfully I was able to drag the bearing out pretty easily with one of those three-armed pulley removers.

Now to find a replacement. And I guess order parts from murray or sears.

Do you happen to know the right way to get a bearing back onto that shaft? Drive it on with a pipe? I don't want to damage the new bearing while putting it on.

My machine does start with a 536.

Thanks a lot!
i have not done it yet
but indypower came up with a great idea
the pully ,on mine came off easy with a little heat and cold water
the bearing was not , i didn't have a puller
again try your local john deere dealer for the pully they might have in stock or they can order it (shipping is cheaper than sears)
i,m going to ask indypower how he did it


Last edited by deerefan; 12-04-08 at 10:06 AM.
 
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12-04-08, 09:53 AM   #19  
indypower
great idea about the push nuts on the bolts
but how do we install the bearing on the shaft?
i don't have any special tools
also do we need to bolt on the auger shaft
to the housing first before installing the bearing ?

 
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12-04-08, 11:00 AM   #20  
Good idea about push nuts! I think the only way to install the bearing is with a pipe the same diameter as the inner bearing race.

I would like to know if we should bolt the auger in place before installing the bearing. I'm guessing so, because otherwise it'll just move away with every tap. I'm just worried about damaging the auger bearings.

 
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12-04-08, 11:54 AM   #21  
me too, i was guessing the same thing
but also worried will pounding the bearing on the shaft
will damage the gears inside the gearbox
but hopefully indypower will let us know
i got a question for you catamount
does your impeller shaft goes in and out a bit to the gearbox?,
mine does and i hope that is normal


Last edited by deerefan; 12-04-08 at 12:10 PM.
 
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12-04-08, 12:03 PM   #22  
I'll have to check tonight. I'll let you know tomorrow morning!

 
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12-04-08, 12:13 PM   #23  
Posted By: deerefan indypower
great idea about the push nuts on the bolts
but how do we install the bearing on the shaft?
i don't have any special tools
also do we need to bolt on the auger shaft
to the housing first before installing the bearing ?
Here is how I did it.
Put 1 bolt thru a hole, hold it lightly with needle nose pliers, just start the push nut, (also have you deep socket ready)then reach around (or better if you have a helper) to the inside of the bucket(or auger housing)hold the bolt with your finger, push the nut on. Repeat with the other bolts.
Now insert the auger assembly, making sure that the impeller shaft is on TOP of the auger. Bolt the auger to the sides of the bucket. Place the first half of the retainer in place.
I lightly sanded the shaft using 400g sandpaper. Make sure the end of the shaft is free of burrs.
Lube the impeller shaft (I used Never-Seize) and inside race of the bearing. Start the bearing on the shaft with your hand. Push as far as you can. Now GENTLY tap it using your pipe or socket. Now install the other half of the retainer and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts equally to center the retainer.
I hope you can understand what I am trying to say. Yeah, I probably missed something. Feel free to PM me.

 
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12-04-08, 12:39 PM   #24  
Posted By: deerefan me too, i was guessing the same thing
but also worried will pounding the bearing on the shaft
will damage the gears inside the gearbox
but hopefully indypower will let us know
i got a question for you catamount
does your impeller shaft goes in and out a bit to the gearbox?,
mine does and i hope that is normal
Guys, 3 important things here.
1). Clean the shaft. I did say use 400G sandpaper, but I actually used red(maroon?) ScotchBrite pad. Polish it as much as you can.
2). Lube the shaft & inner race of the bearing.
3). GENTLY TAP on the race.
Gentle taps on the bearing will not hurt the gear box.
And yes, the impeller shaft does move in & out a little bit.
Key word GENTLE TAPS
Wayling on it with a 5lb sledge hammer will drive the impeller shaft thru the housing.

 
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12-04-08, 12:55 PM   #25  
Posted By: indypower Place the first half of the retainer in place.
... Now install the other half of the retainer and install the nuts.
Very strange, it sounds like yours has TWO retainers. My blower only has 1 retainer, holding the bearing directly against the impeller housing. It would make much more sense to have 2 retainers, one for each side. I wonder if I'm missing one?! Or if mine is just a different design.

This this diagram it is #490.


 
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12-04-08, 01:07 PM   #26  
Catamount, Yours is a different design than the 1 I just did.
I have seen your design. Mine had 2 retainers that sandwhiched the bearing. Some have the hole recessed to take the bearing and the 1 retainer to hold the bearing. mine was rectanglular with 4 bolt holes. Yours appears to trianglular with 3 bolts. Basic process is the same.

 
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12-04-08, 01:30 PM   #27  
Thank you indypower you've been incredibly helpful and saved me a lot of frustration. I think I'll paint the auger tonight and hopefully order some parts from the Murray shop tomorrow.

 
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12-04-08, 03:33 PM   #28  
thank you indypower for the info
mine also has only one retainer like yours
let me know how you turned out with the bearing catamount
since my craftsman looks like the john deere trs26
i plan to paint mine the john deere colors and get
the john deere decals for it no one will ever know

 
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12-04-08, 04:29 PM   #29  
Posted By: deerefan thank you indypower for the info
mine also has only one retainer like yours
let me know how you turned out with the bearing catamount
since my craftsman looks like the john deere trs26
i plan to paint mine the john deere colors and get
the john deere decals for it no one will ever know
The colors & name are the only major differences since Murray made the TRS26 for John Deere and made the 536.xxxxx for Craftsman.

 
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12-04-08, 06:02 PM   #30  
that's a rip off
i was shocked to find out that my trs22 john deere was made by murray
i replaced it with a toro 724
but what i like about the craftsman is that it has a 28 path and chute controls on the dash
i got this SB for free, it was missing the engine and i got a 9 horse engine off craigslist fo $75
will use it when we get a lot of snow and as a back up

 
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12-05-08, 05:34 AM   #31  
Deerefan, was your impeller bearing sealed on both sides? My original was sealed on both sides but the replacement bearing has visibile balls on one side of it.

I'm a little confused as to which side should face the auger housing. Any ideas?

Also, upon further inspection there is quite a bit of slop where the shaft meets the transfer case. And a little bit of liquid coming out around the shaft. Which is probably a bad thing.

 
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12-05-08, 06:11 AM   #32  
Posted By: Catamount Deerefan, was your impeller bearing sealed on both sides? My original was sealed on both sides but the replacement bearing has visibile balls on one side of it.

I'm a little confused as to which side should face the auger housing. Any ideas?

Also, upon further inspection there is quite a bit of slop where the shaft meets the transfer case. And a little bit of liquid coming out around the shaft. Which is probably a bad thing.
That bearing has to be sealed on both sides as it is exposed somewhat to the elements. The exposed side will allow water, snow in causing it to rust and in a couple of years you will be replacing that bearing again. What bearing # did you get?


Last edited by indypower; 12-05-08 at 07:45 AM. Reason: spelling
 
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12-05-08, 07:36 AM   #33  
Posted By: Catamount Deerefan, was your impeller bearing sealed on both sides? My original was sealed on both sides but the replacement bearing has visibile balls on one side of it.

I'm a little confused as to which side should face the auger housing. Any ideas?

Also, upon further inspection there is quite a bit of slop where the shaft meets the transfer case. And a little bit of liquid coming out around the shaft. Which is probably a bad thing.
my bearing was also sealed on both sides
i haven't ordered my bearing yet
the bearing i need is std315235 and i think yours take the same bearing
i guess that's normal for the shaft to go in and out a bit according to indypower but mine does not leak

 
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12-05-08, 07:45 AM   #34  
indypower the bearing i or we need is std315235
i don't think that's a murray or sears part number
am i right? i,m trying to find one locally first
the john deere dealers close to me don't have it in stock
and wondering if other brands of throwers uses this bearing

 
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12-05-08, 08:14 AM   #35  
I just spoke to my local Murray (and JD) rep. He said he has to order these parts through Sears so it is no cheaper for me to go through him and in fact will be more expensive because he will have to mark them up before selling them to me. Recommended I order from Sears online.

Absolutely horrible image but this is bearing STD315235. The previous owner included it with the snowblower as I guess he knew the original was bar. It is in the original packaging with the part number STD315235 on it.

Notice that it is not sealed on this side! Better check with your parts guy that the bearing you order is fully sealed.

<img src="http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/4276/bearingrk3.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/>

 
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12-05-08, 08:41 AM   #36  
hey guys, the bearing that you need is a number 6203-2RS and can be found at your local auto supply store. NAPA # PGB P62032RSJ suggested price $5.84. May have to be ordered.

 
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12-05-08, 08:45 AM   #37  
Posted By: indypower hey guys, the bearing that you need is a number 6203-2RS and can be found at your local auto supply store. NAPA # PGB P62032RSJ suggested price $5.84. May have to be ordered.
You continue to help!

 
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12-05-08, 09:38 AM   #38  
NEW SEALED BEARING IN HAND
autozone part number 203FF by TIMKEN $4.99
the store is just right up the street
thank you so much indypower, you been a big help
catamount,you will not have a problem finding one locally


Last edited by deerefan; 12-05-08 at 10:02 AM.
 
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12-05-08, 10:09 AM   #39  
Ha, we're living parallel lives.

I went to Bond Auto parts (a local VT chain) and got one for $10.

Think I might return it and stop by Autozone tonight and save $5.

Thanks for the tip!

Posted By: deerefan NEW SEALED BEARING IN HAND
autozone part number 203FF by TIMKEN $4.99
the store is just right up the street
thank you so much indypower, you been a big help
catamount,you will not have a problem finding one locally

 
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12-05-08, 11:43 AM   #40  
great
let me know how you made out installing the bearing
i still need to paint everything green and yellow before i install the bearing on mine
good luckBeer 4U2

 
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