Tecumseh 5hp snowblower lacks power

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-12-08, 07:10 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Karlstad, MN
Posts: 9
Tecumseh 5hp snowblower lacks power

1st post. Haven't even been lurking long, but this seemed the right place to get some advice.

I am a Briggs man. This is my church's snowblower. The guy who runs it asked me to look at it since I do lots of chainsaw work. He is not mechanical at all.

This is a 10 year old snowblower. He mentioned it was low on oil, so I changed the 6 oz. of goop that was left(might have been original oil!) and put in synthetic. I cleaned out the carb and bowl, re-leveled the float, and cleaned out the bottom jet/plug. It will run without choke sometimes, but needs the first choke setting to consistently run. The carb has no needle adjustments. The hose is good from the primer to the carb and I replaced the fuel line.

When running the blower, I can't even take a 1/2 swath of 6" deep snow without killing the blower. If I run it full throttle and then drop it to idle, it dies. Can't recover with choke.

80 lbs. compression. Doesn't get much use, so it looks like new. When running, there is visible, blue flame that comes out of the muffler, but it doesn't backfire.

Is the small BB that is embedded in the carb body(the one that sits toward the bottom of the bowl) supposed to move like a check valve? It is frozen. I have not put a kit in it, but I can get one. The lack of adjustment has me puzzled.

It is so different than a briggs that I feel a bit out of my element. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-12-08, 07:56 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 2,365
Check/clean the bowl nut again, you may have missed a hole. I use the wire from a twist tie. Refer to the link below. Have a good one. Geo
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...c_bowl_nut.jpg
 
  #3  
Old 12-13-08, 04:48 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Karlstad, MN
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by geogrubb View Post
Check/clean the bowl nut again, you may have missed a hole. I use the wire from a twist tie. Refer to the link below. Have a good one. Geo
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...c_bowl_nut.jpg
I used a wire to clean all the holes in the bowl nut. I followed up with carb cleaner and compressed air. One thing to note is that the bowl did not have any crud in it. It was one of the cleanest I have seen.
 
  #4  
Old 12-13-08, 05:17 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central New Hampshire
Posts: 754
Drain the gas and check for water. I would say that 75% of the lawnmowers & snowblowers that come in my shop have some water in the gas. It doesn't take much water to make it run bad. And that water in snowblowers turns to ice if stored in a un heated shed. Add Isopryl dry gas to the tank 1oz. per tank. As was said by geogrubb, take the carb apart again, soak it in a soaking carb cleaner for a couple hours and using compressed air blow out EVERY hole(including the ones in the carb throat) from both directions.
If that does not seem to work, try running it with the gas cap on but loose. The vent may be particially plugged.
Oh, and the lack of adjustments is an EPA rule since the mid 90's trying to clean up the emmissions.
 
  #5  
Old 12-13-08, 06:37 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Karlstad, MN
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by indypower View Post
Drain the gas and check for water. I would say that 75% of the lawnmowers & snowblowers that come in my shop have some water in the gas. It doesn't take much water to make it run bad. And that water in snowblowers turns to ice if stored in a un heated shed. Add Isopryl dry gas to the tank 1oz. per tank. As was said by geogrubb, take the carb apart again, soak it in a soaking carb cleaner for a couple hours and using compressed air blow out EVERY hole(including the ones in the carb throat) from both directions.
If that does not seem to work, try running it with the gas cap on but loose. The vent may be particially plugged.
Oh, and the lack of adjustments is an EPA rule since the mid 90's trying to clean up the emmissions.
You can tell that I work on older equipment. I am not used to the lack of adjustment. I will give it a go. Didn't think about the tank vent. Thanks.

What is that BB in the carb? Is it a check valve? Should it be free to move up and down?

Forgot to mention that I totally drained the tank and rinsed with fresh gas. In MN, all we can get is 10% ethenol blend. No regular gas unless you get AV gas.
 
  #6  
Old 12-13-08, 07:21 AM
30yearTech's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 1,176
Originally Posted by bamabama1 View Post
What is that BB in the carb? Is it a check valve? Should it be free to move up and down?
The one embedded in the casting is just a plug to cover the outside of the port that is drilled into the casting at that location. It's not supposed to move or come out.

If you could post the model and spec numbers from your engine it would be helpful in making other suggestions as to what to look at. The bowl nut as geo described in his post may very likely be the culprit.
 
  #7  
Old 12-13-08, 07:56 AM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central New Hampshire
Posts: 754
In MN, all we can get is 10% ethenol blend.
Same here in N.H. E10 causes more problems than it's worth.
But hey, what do I know? I just fix these things. unlike the idiots in Washington that think they know everything about everything. Why cant I get any bailout money?
 
  #8  
Old 12-13-08, 10:18 AM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Iowa!!!!!
Posts: 3,728
You can get bailout money anytime you want it. Just fly your Leer jet to Washington and wear your Armani suit to coffee with the big boys. Uh, leave your Crescent Wrench at home.
 
  #9  
Old 12-13-08, 03:48 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Karlstad, MN
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by 30yearTech View Post
The one embedded in the casting is just a plug to cover the outside of the port that is drilled into the casting at that location. It's not supposed to move or come out.

If you could post the model and spec numbers from your engine it would be helpful in making other suggestions as to what to look at. The bowl nut as geo described in his post may very likely be the culprit.
HSSK50 something. I brought it back to the church for the blizzard this weekend. It doesn't work well, but it is better than nothing. I will be able to check on it this week. It probably is something as easy as that, but I was sure I cleaned all the ports. What is WOT on this? I have a tach and it was maxing out at 3900 rpm with no load.
 
  #10  
Old 12-13-08, 08:10 PM
30yearTech's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 1,176
Most engines max are around 3600 rpm, but the spec numbers off the engine will tell for sure.
 
  #11  
Old 12-13-08, 09:09 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Karlstad, MN
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by 30yearTech View Post
Most engines max are around 3600 rpm, but the spec numbers off the engine will tell for sure.
I will try to get there tomorrow and get the numbers. Better turn down the rpm's before she ends up blowing up!
 
  #12  
Old 12-14-08, 11:25 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Karlstad, MN
Posts: 9
Finally got the numbers

HSSK50 673665
VTP195V1G1RC

Church was cancelled due to weather. It took a bit longer to get there than I thought.
 
  #13  
Old 12-14-08, 04:55 PM
30yearTech's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 1,176
Here is a link for a service manual that covers your engine, may be helpful with going through your carburetor and setting your governor.

I would pay special attention to the O-Rings on the nozzle which you can have a look at here:

Tec_Carb

Service Manual:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
 
  #14  
Old 12-14-08, 06:00 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Karlstad, MN
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by 30yearTech View Post
Here is a link for a service manual that covers your engine, may be helpful with going through your carburetor and setting your governor.

I would pay special attention to the O-Rings on the nozzle which you can have a look at here:

Tec_Carb

Service Manual:
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
Thank you! That REALLY helps!
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes