Tecumseth Problem

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  #1  
Old 12-17-08, 05:26 PM
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Tecumseth Problem

Hello everyone,

I just found this site and man am i glad i did. There seems to be a plethora of information on this site that i was looking for years ago.

I have a problem with a 1 Year old yes i said it one year old craftsmen snow blower. Its my dads snow blower and hes one of those "things take care of itself no need for maintenance just gas it up and go." Well hes learning the hard way that his theory is obviously garbage.

Enough talking though lets get into the nitty gritty.

The problem is that is surges while idling and at full throttle but when under load it stops. Its doing one of these numbers "brum brum brum brum brum brum". It's most notable at idle less noticeable at full throttle but you can still hear it and you can see the throttle lever bobing back and forth. But when i put it under a decent load it stops the surging. Also, it seems like it stops when i leave the choke a click closed.

It was stored with no preparation done but from now on it will be. So the gas dried up and I'm guessing it varnished in the carb. I put a cap full of Sea Foam to see if it might clear it up but no luck.

The details:
Engine brand- Tecumseh
HP/cc- 5.5/195
Engine model#- LH195SP
SPEC-67514D
Engine Family- 72PXS.1951BF
DOM-07292cd0
The number that's stamped on the Carb- 5285 A7Y

Let me know if you guys need any other information. ANY and all help is highly appreciated. Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 12-17-08, 05:40 PM
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How long did you use it after adding Seafoam? It will take at least an hour of running to clean it out using Seafoam. If it does not clear up, you are going to have to tear apart the carb and soak it. Also, did you put in fresh gas? Gas over 30 days old is now considered "bad". Add 2 oz. per gal of Isypropel dry gas. You may have water in the gas which can also cause your problem.
 
  #3  
Old 12-17-08, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by indypower View Post
How long did you use it after adding Seafoam? It will take at least an hour of running to clean it out using Seafoam. If it does not clear up, you are going to have to tear apart the carb and soak it. Also, did you put in fresh gas? Gas over 30 days old is now considered "bad". Add 2 oz. per gal of Isypropel dry gas. You may have water in the gas which can also cause your problem.
I ran it with the sea foam for about an hour at least. But they they say sea foam does its work when its just sitting in the carb so I'm hopping maybe it will be solved next time i use it. It's a snow blower for a apartment complex we own. So i don't have easy access to it but i think i might swap it with the one we have at home so i can wrench on it

I'm pretty sure the gas was for the most part fresh but not sure

What would i soak the carb in?

I read that it could be that the holes in the bolt that hold the bell to the carb are clogged and read to clean them out with a twist tie wire.

Is Isopropel dry gas the ISO-HEET stuff in the red bottles?

Also since the season is in its prime I'm a little reluctant to take the carb apart now would any damage be done to the engine if i just ran it the way it is the rest of the season then when spring rolls around take it apart? Thanks again guys
 
  #4  
Old 12-17-08, 07:40 PM
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Since it does run, try the procedure below to see what happens.

Clamp off the fuel line, remove the carb bowl, release the clamp to see if you have good fuel flow to the carb, raise the float to see that it shuts off the flow with minimal pressure, clean the junk from the bowl, clean the bowl nut, 2 holes close to the bottom and a tiny one about midway up(I usually use the wire from a twist tie), spray all holes, cracks and crevases with brake parts cleaner, reassemble and you should be good to go. If this didn't work it will be probably be necessary to rebuild the carb. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will post to help further. Refer to the photo below. Have a good one . Geo
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...c_bowl_nut.jpg
 
  #5  
Old 12-17-08, 09:34 PM
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I have the same problem with a new one.Sears Tech was here and adjusted but I still need one click on choke to keep from surging.He said it was a common problem and they usually replace the carb(under warranty)
 
  #6  
Old 12-18-08, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by geogrubb View Post
Since it does run, try the procedure below to see what happens.

Clamp off the fuel line, remove the carb bowl, release the clamp to see if you have good fuel flow to the carb, raise the float to see that it shuts off the flow with minimal pressure, clean the junk from the bowl, clean the bowl nut, 2 holes close to the bottom and a tiny one about midway up(I usually use the wire from a twist tie), spray all holes, cracks and crevases with brake parts cleaner, reassemble and you should be good to go. If this didn't work it will be probably be necessary to rebuild the carb. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will post to help further. Refer to the photo below. Have a good one . Geo
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...c_bowl_nut.jpg
Originally Posted by gorper99 View Post
I have the same problem with a new one.Sears Tech was here and adjusted but I still need one click on choke to keep from surging.He said it was a common problem and they usually replace the carb(under warranty)
I will try what you said Geo. When i took the cover off that covers the carb up i was surprised i don't see any adjustment needles. All i see is the idle adjustment screw. it looks like a very simple carburetor. I'm pretty sure it is out of warranty but ill see if me ma can dig up a receipt maybe it is.

Gorper is yours still in warranty?

Thanks for all your help guys, i appreciate it.
 
  #7  
Old 12-18-08, 08:24 AM
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T carb

A carburetor gummed up from old gas is not warranty!!!!!!!!!

AJ
 
  #8  
Old 12-18-08, 03:21 PM
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Alright guys i drained the gas put new gas in. Took the bell off and it was crudded up with a GREEN film. The holes in the bronze plug did have some crud in them. I used brake clean and a twist tie wire to clean them out also cleaned the bell as best i could and even sprayed the underside of the carb really well with brake clean. In the end its still doing the same thing.

I'm open to ideas but i think im gona have to soak the carb in something. What do you guys soak Carbs in ? Someone told me Kerosene once?

Also does anyone have the pdf link to my engine and carb? So i know what i'm looking at if i take it apart?

I looked at another pdf but it wasn't to my engine.

Thanks again guys.
 
  #9  
Old 12-18-08, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SIURXP View Post
Alright guys i drained the gas put new gas in. Took the bell off and it was crudded up with a GREEN film. The holes in the bronze plug did have some crud in them. I used brake clean and a twist tie wire to clean them out also cleaned the bell as best i could and even sprayed the underside of the carb really well with brake clean. In the end its still doing the same thing.

I'm open to ideas but i think im gona have to soak the carb in something. What do you guys soak Carbs in ? Someone told me Kerosene once?

Also does anyone have the pdf link to my engine and carb? So i know what i'm looking at if i take it apart?

I looked at another pdf but it wasn't to my engine.

Thanks again guys.
Here are some answers to your questions:
Since your blower is a Sears, go here: Parts & Accessories | Shop & Find Lawn & Garden, Appliance Parts at Sears PartsDirect | SearsPartsDirect.com then type in your model number.
Your engine number will be 143.xxxxxx You can see a full break down of the engine.
Yes, ISO-Heet is Isoprople dry gas.
I use Gunk carburator cleaner. Comes in 1 gallon bucket and has a dipping basket. Auto parts store will have it. Cost is about $25. for the gallon.
 
  #10  
Old 12-18-08, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by indypower View Post
Here are some answers to your questions:
Since your blower is a Sears, go here: Parts & Accessories | Shop & Find Lawn & Garden, Appliance Parts at Sears PartsDirect | SearsPartsDirect.com then type in your model number.
Your engine number will be 143.xxxxxx You can see a full break down of the engine.
Yes, ISO-Heet is Isoprople dry gas.
I use Gunk carburator cleaner. Comes in 1 gallon bucket and has a dipping basket. Auto parts store will have it. Cost is about $25. for the gallon.
Thanks, I wrote down almost every number on the engine but i obviously forgot that one.

I think I'm going to swap snow blowers so i have the problematic one at home. I just overhauled the one we have at home she should be good for the rest of the season.

Any other suggestions before i dig into this carb and soak it?

Also when soaking do i need to dissemble the carb completely? Could i just take the bell off ?

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
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