1976 Ariens Snowblower Won't Start

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  #1  
Old 12-19-08, 05:18 AM
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1976 Ariens Snowblower Won't Start

I just inherited an Ariens snowblower that was garaged the whole time. It is in excellent physical condition. It has electric-start. Problem is: it sounds like it's starved for gas. The gas is 1 year old, but smells fresh. The plug is clean and I can see the spark. I will drain+put new gas and dry-gas in. Beyond that, any other suggestions?
 
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Old 12-19-08, 05:28 AM
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After you drain the gas, pour a tablespoon of gas down the spark plug hole. If it runs for a couple of seconds, then you know it will run and your carb will have to be cleaned.
 
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Old 12-20-08, 01:30 PM
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So Far...

I put fresh gas in, made sure the gas line is clear, sprayed carb-cleaner into carb, and then used starter liquid in the carb. The machine ran for about 30 seconds. When I tried to run it without the spray, it still acts like the gas isn't feeding in. What's my next step?
 
  #4  
Old 12-20-08, 01:48 PM
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Post the engine Mfg and model numbers usually found on the engine shroud just above the spark plug. If it is a Tecumseh below is my usual aproach;

Clamp off the fuel line, remove the carb bowl, release the clamp to see if you have good fuel flow to the carb, raise the float to see that it shuts off the flow with minimal pressure, clean the junk from the bowl, clean the bowl nut, 2 holes close to the bottom and a tiny one about midway up(I usually use the wire from a twist tie), spray all holes, cracks and crevases with brake parts cleaner, reassemble and you should be good to go. If this didn't work it will be probably be necessary to rebuild the carb. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will post to help further. Refer to the photo below. Have a good one . Geo
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...c_bowl_nut.jpg
 
  #5  
Old 12-20-08, 03:18 PM
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since it did run for 30 seconds with the starting fluid, you need to remove, disassemble the carb, soak it in carb soaking cleaner for about 2 hours(gunk brand about $25/gal.) then get the carb kit for it(guessing about $20). Make sure you blow out EVERY HOLE in the carb with compressed air, then re-assemble the carb.
 
  #6  
Old 12-28-08, 07:25 PM
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My thanks to you! As it turns out, the carb bowl had junk in it, and the float was stuck to it. Also, the bowl nut had a clogged hole. I cleaned all the above and the machine is running. I lost the spring to the needle in the process. I've since gotten one, but now the needle is dripping gas. Do I need other things such as a washer or O-Ring to go above the spring to seal the bowl??
 

Last edited by PRG49; 12-28-08 at 08:05 PM.
  #7  
Old 12-29-08, 04:45 AM
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O-Ring PN# 630740

Washer PN# 630739

Spring PN#630738
 
  #8  
Old 12-29-08, 08:55 AM
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OK - got a kit with all necessary washers, gaskets, etc. Replaced them. Only thing stopping me: a little weight w/small thin wire fell down off float. Is there a certain way to re-attach so it won't keep falling?
 
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Old 12-29-08, 01:53 PM
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Please disregard my last post -- I found a nice pdf for the inlet needle in another thread. My thanks to all who contributed to my issues!! Beer 4U2
 
  #10  
Old 12-30-08, 10:20 AM
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OK - with the swagger of a champion, I put the parts back (I've done all this with the carb attached, and the blower leaned against a wall) and was met with a continual flooding of gas into the carb. The float needle is on correctly; this I am sure of. I replaced the seat: now, if you are looking into the cylinder where the seat goes, which side should you see -- the ribbed side or the flat side? I had a heck of a time even getting the old one out this morning. My next step is to remove the carb, and do some easier work on a bench. BTW the machine runs fine, aside of the gas flow issue. What's the best tool to handle that seat? Help!
 

Last edited by PRG49; 12-30-08 at 11:41 AM.
  #11  
Old 12-30-08, 03:01 PM
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Hi,
I had exactly the same thing happening last year with my carb (Tecumseh engine)
I bought a kit and after re-assembly the gas was leaking from the needle.
I'm sorry I can't remember how the needle seat goes in but there is a right and a wrong way.
Try it one way and if it leaks turn the seat around which should stop the leak.
Also make sure the old seat is really out of its cavity. Mine wasn't and the new seat would fit on top of the old one but of course cause a major leak.
Good luck
 
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Old 12-30-08, 05:37 PM
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Thanks! Does the seat get pushed down as far as it can go?
 
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Old 01-01-09, 10:26 AM
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I bench-tested the float, and it worked fine to a point, then started coming out the pinhole at the top. How much gas do you need for a test? I'm wondering if I used too much...
 
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Old 01-01-09, 12:34 PM
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The seat goes in ribbed side 1st. Not sure what you mean by 'bench tested" but if gas is coming out the pinhole (vent) in the carb, the float may have a leak. remove float and shake. If you hear gas inside, replace float
 
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Old 01-03-09, 04:18 PM
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Thank you to all who helped me out here. I ordered a replacement carb, and figure all will be fine when it arrives. This is an AWESOME website with very knowledgeable people who are willing to share. Beer 4U2
 
  #16  
Old 11-28-09, 01:13 PM
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Oil drain

Hey gang: I'm looking to drain the oil from my baby, and it looks like the oil will drain onto the body if the plug is removed. Is there a "clean" way to change the oil?
 
  #17  
Old 12-09-09, 04:29 PM
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oil change

A lot of the time I will tip machine or remove drain side wheel. First run for about 5 min to heat oil . On my own blower I remove existing drain and replaced with a longer nipple, which can be purchased at most hardware stores in plumbing section, add a little teflon tape to the threads.
good luck
stick1
 
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