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Snowblower carb removal and cleaning for Dummies


amazin6's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 10
RI

12-22-08, 03:55 AM   #1  
Snowblower carb removal and cleaning for Dummies

Hello all and I hope you are all well and not too sore from shoveling out when your snowblower does not work like I feel! I need basic, simple help for a beginner. My MTD 5HP snow blower will start and run with choke full on. As soon as I try to idle down or engage unit to move or throw it dies out. From reading here, it is a carb cleaning issue. Gas in unit is new this week with Stabil added. Where is and how do I remove this carb? I believe I have found the carb behind a protective metal cover where key,choke knob and throttle are. Almost got cover off but could not remove it without removing choke knob. Do not want to get into more trouble. Did find a small gas line hose with split near end and luckily it was near connection to carburetor(?) and I was able to cut off this end and reattach but now I wonder if this hose is too short and kinked. Would like to replace it but where in the heck is the other end as it disappears into the guts of machine? Any links to manuals or pictures would be most welcomed although that is problematic here as all we are offered is modem speed connections. A verbal walk through in simple, basic terms would be great! Thanks to all and good health and happy holidays!

 
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Airman's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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TN

12-22-08, 07:11 AM   #2  
Post model number, serial number, etc. of both engine and blower.

 
cpgixxer's Avatar
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Posts: 156

12-22-08, 09:00 AM   #3  
It sounds like you are relatively new to this and are unsure about how things work on snowblowers.
You should get yourself a manual if you have never done this before, you are asking for problems if you haven't. A machine that will only run on full choke isn't necessarily a carb issue but can be. I've seen bad gaskets between carb and intake, a blown headgasket caused one of my machines to only run on full choke. As for the fuel line, be aware that there isn't alot of "extra line" to cut and pull through, you might be getting into removing the starter cowl to get a new line fed.

Shut off the gas if there is a petcock.
Start with carb, remove the choke knob with a screw driver. 2 screws on the side sometimes hold the snow cover to the carb- remove. 2 more screws hold the cover to the engine. There may be a wire connecting the key to ground, I usually cut them and butt connect everything back together. Take a picture of the linkages, there are usually 2 , one going to the governor and one to the throttle, these have to come off. Removed the 2 screws holding the carb to the intake, remove the hose clamp from the fuel line and remove the line with a pair of pliers as you swist the carb. Once the carb is free, take it to a small engine shop and have them clean it and put a kit in.

Putting a kit in is a whole other subject on it's own.

 
indypower's Avatar
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NH

12-22-08, 09:14 AM   #4  
To get the cover off, the choke knob needs to be pryed straight off with a screwdriver. Once you get the cover off, you will see the carb.
That small gas line you saw is the primer line. The other end is connected to the primer bulb. To replace the line, you have to remove the fan housing (the big metal piece that holds the recoil starter. and no, you do not have to remove the recoil first).
Before you remove the carb, take pics withn your digital camera so you know where the linkages go.
2 bolts hold the carb to the engine. Remove those, undo the linkage at the carb. The linkages are "Z" shaped, so you have to carefully manuver the carb to get them off.
Now that you have it off, take it to the bench, remove the nut on the bottom of the bowl, remove the bowl, remove the o-ring gasket, remove the pin that holds the float, remove the float & needle. Now hold the float next to your ear & shake it. If you hear a sloshing noise, you need to replace the float as it is full of gas. Now soak the carb in a carb cleaning soaking solution (avaiable at your local auto parts store). While it soaks for a couple of hours, go get a carb kit.
Rinse off in water and blow out ALL the holes in the carb with compressed air. When you blow out the gas inlet nipple, make sure the needle seat gets blown out.
Now re-assemble the carb. With the carb upside down, the float should be pararell with the carb body.

 
cpgixxer's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 156

12-22-08, 05:03 PM   #5  
Posted By: indypower To get the cover off, the choke knob needs to be pryed straight off with a screwdriver. Once you get the cover off, you will see the carb.
That small gas line you saw is the primer line. The other end is connected to the primer bulb. To replace the line, you have to remove the fan housing (the big metal piece that holds the recoil starter. and no, you do not have to remove the recoil first).
Before you remove the carb, take pics withn your digital camera so you know where the linkages go.
2 bolts hold the carb to the engine. Remove those, undo the linkage at the carb. The linkages are "Z" shaped, so you have to carefully manuver the carb to get them off.
Now that you have it off, take it to the bench, remove the nut on the bottom of the bowl, remove the bowl, remove the o-ring gasket, remove the pin that holds the float, remove the float & needle. Now hold the float next to your ear & shake it. If you hear a sloshing noise, you need to replace the float as it is full of gas. Now soak the carb in a carb cleaning soaking solution (avaiable at your local auto parts store). While it soaks for a couple of hours, go get a carb kit.
Rinse off in water and blow out ALL the holes in the carb with compressed air. When you blow out the gas inlet nipple, make sure the needle seat gets blown out.
Now re-assemble the carb. With the carb upside down, the float should be pararell with the carb body.
To add to Indy's carb cleaning, when you install the seat for the needle it's ribbed side down. The float should also be measured for distance, place an 11/64 drill bit between the float and the carb body, if there is a gap- the float should be bent downward using a screwdriver and slight downward force, opposide if the gap is less. And make sure you get "carb cleaner" in a gallon container, should be about $45 for the good stuff. Gunk is garbage and won't clean it half as good as how I suggested in my other post.

 
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