Craftsman 8HP snowblower Blowing oil

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  #1  
Old 01-03-09, 03:05 PM
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Craftsman 8HP snowblower Blowing oil

I had a carb problem that cantaminated the oil with gas which caused the oil to blow out a tube on the carb side. I drained all the oil out and refilled it with 5W 30 oil to the proper amount. It started first pull but the new oil is blowing out this same tube. Checking the filler rod the new oil has air bubbles in it. Where does this tube attach because I can't see where it would attach to anything or is it a breather hose that just hangs down? Will I damage the engine if I run it?
 
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  #2  
Old 01-03-09, 04:58 PM
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On the H head motor the valves and valve guides are behind that breather, your guides or valves might be bad.

Is it a tec or briggs motor, OHV?
 
  #3  
Old 01-03-09, 05:06 PM
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It is a Tecumseh. Is the engine blowing the excess air out of the block? I noticed that it took the oil very slowly as if there was an air lock in the crankcase.
 
  #4  
Old 01-03-09, 05:25 PM
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Is this the tube pointing down beside the carb on the engine block, tube points downward? This is the breather tube, behind that breather are the valves. Reason's oil comes out of this tube are in the repair manual.

1. Check the oil level, make sure the engine is not overfilled. Also verify that the viscosity rating on the container of
the oil being used is to specification.
2. Check the angle of operation. Avoid prolonged use at a severe angle.
3. Check the engine R.P.M. setting for excessive R.P.M. using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the
R.P.M. settings found on microfiche card # 30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust the
high and low R.P.M. as necessary.
4. Check for leaking or damaged gaskets, seals, or "O"-rings. External leaks may not be evident; however, the leak
may prevent the engine from achieving a partial crankcase vacuum.
5. Check the breather for damage, dirty condition, or improper installation. The oil return hole(s) must face down.
6. Check the engine compression using a compression tester. If the engine has weak compression, determine the
cause of weak compression: worn rings, leaking head gasket, or leaking valves. Follow the compression tester's
procedure.
 
  #5  
Old 01-03-09, 06:00 PM
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Thank you very much for your help. Yes it is attached to the valve cover. The oil is the right viscosity. There are no other external leaks. RPMs are within specs and it is running quite well. A little rough but good nonetheless.
 
  #6  
Old 01-03-09, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk Lake View Post
Thank you very much for your help. Yes it is attached to the valve cover. The oil is the right viscosity. There are no other external leaks. RPMs are within specs and it is running quite well. A little rough but good nonetheless.

I'd pull that breather off after running and check for oil, is it running out of the tube or a drip here or there?
 
  #7  
Old 01-03-09, 07:08 PM
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At first it was quite a flow, like a purge then a small stream and then a drip and now nothing. It does run kind of up and down at full throttle but very smooth at idle.
 
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Old 01-03-09, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawk Lake View Post
At first it was quite a flow, like a purge then a small stream and then a drip and now nothing. It does run kind of up and down at full throttle but very smooth at idle.
Hunting at full throttle can be gotten rid of by fine tuning the idle and fast speed mixture screws until it stops. Was the oil new or dirty old, you may have just had some run off from the gas in the oil issue. If it does it from cold everytime you start it you have a problem, as metal expands in the valve train it may stop it from leaking. I'd keep an eye on your oil level (as should always happen with any small engine on every start) and that tube.
 
  #9  
Old 01-03-09, 08:37 PM
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I will make sure I do that. Thank you for the help it's a relief to have it running again.
 
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