Briggs Mower

Reply

  #1  
Old 01-08-09, 04:46 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 205
Briggs Mower

Customer brought me this mower for repair,the problem is it is hard to pull on the compression stroke.I check the valves for clearence,they are fine,I also replaced the flywheel key thinking it was out of time.I can take my hand and move the blade just a little and it will be easy to pull start and it will run fine.The blade and the crank are not bent,I also change the oil not over filled.The mower is a overhead valve Model#120602 Type 064E1 Code 001030FB.Could the (MCR)causing it to be hard to pull start.

Thanks
Jerry
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 01-08-09, 08:48 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,575
What are the valves set at? The only thing other than valve settings would be a loose, missing, or badly worn blade. A short, worn down blade can cause the problem. It doesn't have the flyweight properties that a good blade has.
 
  #3  
Old 01-09-09, 02:22 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 205
Cheese,I check the valves both show .006 with a feeler gauge.The specs. show both valves to be set between .004 to .008 is that correct.The way I check the valves is one at a time with one valve closed while the other is just started to open.I not always sure if I get the valves at 1/4 past top dead center.Is this ok in checking the valves.Also the blade is tight and looks good,but I will change the blade,to see if it changes anything.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
  #4  
Old 01-09-09, 03:00 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 755
You are correct on valve clearance. I do not see the blade as a factor unless it scrapes somewhere.

Check the flywheel brake and tension spring to ensure it is not engaging.

Here is the valve adjustment procedure as written in the repair manual:

Rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction until you get to TDC (Top Dead Center) of the compression stroke.

Insert a narrow indicator (screwdriver or small rod) into the spark plug hole against the piston to indicate piston movement.

While watching the indicator, rotate crankshaft clockwise (CW) past TDC until piston is 0.25 in. (6mm) down from TDC. This is to prevent the compression release (if equipped) from affecting adjustments.

Loosen the jamb nut on the rocker arm.

Insert the feeler gauge. While moving it back and forth, carefully tighten the adjustment screw until a slight amount of resistance is felt on the feeler gauge.

Tighten the jamb nut without moving the adjustment screw.

Rotate the crankshaft through a few revolutions and recheck the clearance. Repeat this process until both valves consistently fall within specifications.
 
  #5  
Old 01-09-09, 04:05 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 205
Smile

Airman,I did check the blade brake,it look fine.The blade does not scrape against the deck.I took the blade off and tried another is seem to work somewhat better.The blade that I took off look fine,so I put the orginal blade back on and it pulled started better.Only thing that I can think of maybe the blade needed to be tighten more the blade was not loose though.Back to adjusting the valves,I tried to adjust the valves as you stated,not sure that I get the piston position right in the cylinder,I also used a small screwdriver.Can they be adjusted one at a time though.MCR a factor in adjusting one at a time.

Thanks
Jerry
 
  #6  
Old 01-10-09, 04:50 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 205
Smile

Thanks guys for the replies,I finally got the valves adjusted right and the mower runs fine.

Jerry
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:42 PM.