John Deere L130 will not start..need help.

FIrst off fellas,..I'm a bit of a novice trying to save myself a few hundred dollars so I'm going the home fix it route before resorting to the typical Repair Center route. This mower has about 112 hours of usage. I've replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and replaced both plugs with new ones. I originally purchased one of the typical JD fuel filters but went out and purchased a Kohler due to the beefier size. I've drained all the fuel because it was my first suspect due to that lacquer smell I detected in the carb. I had read some great reviews on the AutoZone carb cleaner so I purchase a can and filled the carb up. Once getting everything hooked back up, I turned the key and it fired until the bowl drained. I tried the cleaner a few more times and each time the tractor fired temporarily. I decided to simply start filling the bowl up with fresh fuel and it fired as well. SOO,..now I'm curious if I'm getting some sort of vapor lock or if it's not getting fuel for some other reason. Dumb question...When inspecting the fuel filter itself,..how much fuel should I see? Full? Half? I need some good checks before I dive into costly parts. Thanks guys. Look forward to hearing some ideas from the pros.

 

I do not understand your problem. What exactly is the engine doing or not doing?

What model, type, code or spec. number is the engine?

Ignore how much fuel is in the filter, this is not a problem.

Was the carburetor cleaner you used an aerosol?

Here is a service manual for your mower and engine. This is a large file 52MB!
http://www.mytractorforum.com/images...ies_Manual.pdf

 

Is fuel flowing from the tank to the fuel pump? From the pump to the carb?

 

Airman, thank you for the MANUAL! At least now I can visualize possible problems.
I'll get the engine spec when I get home this evening.
The carb cleaner was AutoZone Part number AZ-4 / Valucraft / 13 oz. Carburetor Spray Cleaner
The problem is that I'm not sure I'm getting fuel to the carb because it cranks perfectly but will not start. If I pour fuel directly down the carb opening...it starts briefly. I know that 2 of the fuel lines are clear that branch off the pump but I still have to check the 3rd one which sneaks behind that air cleaner base. I've also noticed that the "Breather Hose" is just a stub,..as though it's been cut off. Might be a model change because it ran fine before.

 

It is making it as far as the fuel filter. This I'm sure of. I just don't know if it's making it to the carb. There appears to be a small copper breather in the pump. Are those prone to clog? The manual says to inspect it for damage but I'm not sure what to look for. Thanks Cheese. I appreciate the feedback.

 

Once you post engine brand, model, etc. you can be given more specific help.

Problem could possibly be stuck float needle, defective fuel pump or inoperative anti-afterfire solenoid, if equipped.

 

Sounds to me like you need to drop the bowl off the carb and clean it out. I suspect fuel is getting to the carb, but probably can't make it through it to the engine because of gummed up jets and/or possibly a stuck fuel shutoff solenoid.

 

New member here.
Bumping this thread up and hoping Airman or someone else can provide an active link to a John Deere L130 service manual.
I just acquired this 6 yr old mower used.
I barely clipped a fence post with the left side of the deck and the PTO shut off.
OK, got back to the barn ok, however; now I have no ignition or lights or anything.
This unit has a Kohler 23 HP engine.
I also have a similar Scotts 20 hp Briggs mower for comparison.
I swapped out ignition switches and the JD switch works on the Scotts, but the Scotts does not work on the JD.
It appears that there is NO starting solenoid on the JD. The large diameter red wire goes from the battery to the bottom lug on what appears to be a start relay attached to the starter. Similar to a car starter setup. My Scotts has no separate 'bendex', just a starter....
I think that the former owner did some monkeying around with the wiring because instead of a fuse block there is like 3 small red wires going into the top of a black junction plug, and 1 red wire just jammed into the bottom of the same plug....each of these wires are 12vdc hot at all times even if key is in off position. And there is of course, 12 volts at the bottom of the starter gear from the larger diameter red wire coming from the battery of course.

I think I need a service manual with some electrical drawings to see what I should have and where.

Thoughts?

 

Me thinks that bendix on the side of the starter is the solenoid and that's the way Kohler does it.
I'm going on that assumption, maybe the solenoid is bad, or the toggle wire is broken somewhere or.....

 

This will get you to JD'S parts catalog for your model. As to a free service manual, good luck.

 

Careful swapping ignition switches like that... could send 12 volts to your coils and fry $130 in seconds.

There should be a small wire plugged onto the solenoid on the starter. This is where the voltage to start the engine is applied. Check for voltage there first. If none, check for power at the switch. If none, check the fuse and make sure the small red wire is still connected to the post with the big red wire on the solenoid.