Wheel Horse won't start...help

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  #1  
Old 03-14-09, 05:30 PM
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Wheel Horse won't start...help

Hi all,

I bought a Wheel Horse 417-8 yesterday. It has been sitting awile. Got it home and put a good battery in it. Turns over good, but not getting any spark. I did find the safety seat switch is broken off. Tried to jump it ,had no luck. Maybe I didn't do it correctly. I am thinking it might be a switch somewhere that is causing it not fire. Not sure how many switches there are and where they are located. I checked the fuses and they were good. I have power on both sides of the coil. Everything else works on it...lights,power deck,guages.etc...

So I am asking which route to take to eliminate possible causes and find out why I'm not getting spark.

Tractor ID # is 3117K802
Engine Model # KT179S Type 24363 Code 1530155816

Thanks in advance,
Cory in Indiana
 
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  #2  
Old 03-14-09, 07:49 PM
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It has to be in the points/condenser if you have power to the coil. Of course the coil could be bad.
 
  #3  
Old 03-16-09, 06:32 AM
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I had the model number wrong, it is KT17QS.
 
  #4  
Old 03-16-09, 03:54 PM
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You still need to check/replace the points & condenser as marbobj suggested above and wouldn't hurt to check the timing;






Good Luck
 
  #5  
Old 03-16-09, 04:00 PM
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If it has a battery type ignition, when the engine is not cranking, you should have 12 volts on one or both sides of the coil (NOT the center post. Do not do this at the center post.) best measured with a test light. With the engine cranking, on one terminal the light should be steady on, the other the light should flash. If you a steady light on both sides of the coil when the engine is cranking, You have corroded,stuck points. . Roger
 
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Old 04-11-09, 03:50 PM
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Hi all,

Did the ignition test as stated in the previous post by Hopkinsr2. With the engine cranking, one side was steady and the other side flashed. So are points ok? One potentially big thing I forgot to mention is that when I turn the key to run or to start, the engine oil light flashes. It even flashes when I use the test switch. The engine oil is full and it looks clean. Can it be the oil sensor switch causing this? Where is it located on the engine? I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for this tractor. Can I jump it once I am able to find it to get it run?

Thank you,
Cory
 
  #7  
Old 04-11-09, 04:49 PM
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If you have the steady/flashing light testing OK at the coil side terminals and no spark from the coil tower, you have a bad coil.

Once you feed the coil with power at one terminal and ground the current through the other terminal / closed points you have saturated the windings in the coil. To get a release of high voltage (through the tower = spark) all you have to do is break the ground = open the points. Of course, your coil has to be good.

If you decide to replace the coil, try to get the same coil exactly. If you can't and have to use an auto parts store to come up with something that "should work" make sure the replacement coil covers the internal resistor issue.
 

Last edited by marbobj; 04-11-09 at 05:06 PM.
  #8  
Old 04-12-09, 04:13 PM
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Hi all,

It sounds like I need a coil. What about the flashing engine oil light? If I can ever find the sensor, maybe just replacing it will fix that problem. I did run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side terminal on the coil. I got spark. I put a little gas in the carb and it started up.

Thanks for any advice you can offer,
Cory
 
  #9  
Old 04-12-09, 04:31 PM
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Look in this area;


 
  #10  
Old 04-12-09, 04:39 PM
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If you have spark with a wire from the battery to the coil, You should have had spark before as you stated you had a steady light on one side & a flashing light on the other side.. Did you do any thing else?? Did you try another plug ?? If you have spark with the coil "Hotwired" you won't need a coil.. I'm not sure about the oil light, but I am confused about the spark since you said you had voltage on one side, a flashing light on the other side & still no spark?? Now you do with it "Hotwired??" This tells me the coil & points & condenser is good it should work & no need to hotwire it unless the ignition switch is bad & has too much resistance in it to supply the proper current to the coil???
 
  #11  
Old 04-12-09, 06:23 PM
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Since this unit has a low oil light it could be wired to the ignition system to drop power. Maybe this explains the running while "hotwired" ?
 
  #12  
Old 04-12-09, 07:03 PM
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There's a good chance by running the hotwire as you did, you went around the resistor in the coil and saturated the windings from the other side. If you don't have the external resistor you would have one in the coil. If you continued to run the coil as you have it hotwired it would burn up.
 
  #13  
Old 05-12-09, 10:15 PM
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Well, you guys were right again! Turns out between not having spark and hot wiring ignition, I had put new plugs in. Hopkinsr2 said I should have spark both ways, and I did. I took off the jumper wire and tried it with the new plugs in and it started right up.
Now my next question. It starts up good and runs pretty smooth as long as I have the choke partially closed. Is it just a fuel mixture problem? Can I adjust that with the mixture screw? I have taken the carb off and cleaned it(soaked in carb cleaner). It just seems to only run smooth if the choke is closed at a certain point, about halfway is my guess. So with the choke closed so it will run good, the engine doesn't seem to run fast enough at full throttle since it isn't getting the airflow it needs.

Thank you
 
  #14  
Old 05-12-09, 10:49 PM
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You can probably open the mixture screws a bit to adjust for this.
 
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