REBUILDING....got questions

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  #1  
Old 04-16-09, 07:35 PM
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REBUILDING....got questions

I am in the process of rebuilding a 14.5hp B&S engine.
# 287707......code 0225 01

I got a book out of my local library, but it is sort of generic. There seems to be some gaps in the write up. The book covers quite a few different brands and did not go step by step. Anyway my two questions are:

1) how can I get the piston back in the cylinder?
2) how is the governor mounted, and what holds the governor weight in place?

please help.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-16-09, 10:09 PM
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You'll need a ring compressor to install the piston and rings properly. The governor just fits onto the camshaft end boss and the hat of the governor should be up against the lever for the governor shaft, and it lines up with a "cradle" for it in the sump cover.
 
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Old 04-17-09, 05:48 AM
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what can be done, in the absence of a ring compressor?

thx man
 
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Old 04-17-09, 09:51 PM
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I've used a wide hose clamp in some cases, but if you have a 3 piece oil ring setup, that won't work either. Also, you need one wide enough to clamp all the rings at once. I suppose you could carefully work with every ring to try to get them in, but I suggest borrowing a ring compressor, or buy one at an auto parts store. They are cheap enough.
 
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Old 04-25-09, 05:46 AM
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OK...so I on Thursday (04/23) I got finished putting things back together. I replaced everything in its proper location and there were no extra bolts or screws haha. Anywho, I tried it and it fired right up like on the second or third try. I let it idle for a 10 minutes and it ran fine until I switch off. So I started today, to put it to work...but it ran for a few and then died....now it won't restart.

When it died there were no strange noises....tried to restart it would spin but not catch. Or it would spin, and get to a point where it sounds like it would start...but no start and then a popping noise...

can anyone help...hope the description was clear.
 
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Old 04-25-09, 01:42 PM
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you can manually slide the piston in if you are carefull compressing the ringe (from bottom to middle then top ) you MUST be careful to NOT have the gap in the rings aligned with each other !........................i think
 
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Old 04-25-09, 01:52 PM
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You should be able to rent a ring compressor at your local rental store, auto parts store , or maybe your local hardware store or a small engine shop. If worse comes to worse, you could have your local small engine shop do it. Shouldn't cost too much, Only takes maybe 10 mins.
 
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Old 04-25-09, 06:23 PM
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I'd say your flywheel key is sheared due to insufficient torque on the flywheel bolt.
 
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Old 04-25-09, 07:16 PM
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@cheese ok I'd look into that.
Checked it today, now it wont even budge. The starter does not click...nothing.
 
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Old 04-25-09, 09:21 PM
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Can you turn the engine by hand?
 
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Old 04-26-09, 05:17 AM
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yes, I can turn the engine by hand. I had the battery recharged on Friday 23rd, maybe I killed it trying to start repeatedly. But that is not the major issue though? or is it?
 
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Old 04-27-09, 12:48 AM
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Well, I don't know if there is a major issue at all or not, but I guess we'll have to get it cranking before we can diagnose the no-start problem.
 
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Old 04-27-09, 10:26 AM
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what about the ignition switch?
what about the starter?
 
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Old 04-28-09, 12:00 AM
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Oh, I thought you suspected you had run the battery down and needed recharging. Do you have a voltmeter? Is the battery dead? I'd start there.
 
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Old 04-28-09, 05:32 AM
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Yeah that was a concern, but I have since recharged the battery but that did not help. Turn the key and nothing?
 
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Old 04-28-09, 10:29 PM
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Check the fuse. It should be inline on the small red wire on the battery post on the solenoid, near the solenoid.
 
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Old 04-29-09, 06:58 AM
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ok will do and report back. What kind of fuse am I looking for. A blade type or the little cylindrical type?
 

Last edited by longlegs; 04-29-09 at 07:25 AM.
  #18  
Old 04-29-09, 07:18 PM
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checked and replaced the blown fuse. Tried it, the engine turns over but does not start. Could it be a fuel problem? I am also beginning to suspect the armature. I removed the spark plug and grounded it against the muffler and spark was intermittent.
 
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Old 04-29-09, 11:49 PM
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Try a new plug and unplug the kill wire from the coil. If still insufficient spark, you have a coil problem. Make sure the coil is gapped properly (.010").
 
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Old 04-30-09, 05:51 AM
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The plug I've got is brand new. I double checked the gap and it is to specs. I regapped the armature when I discovered the spark problem but that was of no help. (All of this was 04/29).

I will replace the coil.
 
  #21  
Old 05-09-09, 09:51 AM
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ok so Today (05/09)

replaced armature
sanded the fly wheel
drain gas tank
disassemble and clean carburetor
refill with high test gas

I tried it but still no go.....it will spin but won't start....don't know where else to look.

What are the symptoms of a sheared flywheel key?
 
  #22  
Old 05-09-09, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by longlegs View Post

What are the symptoms of a sheared flywheel key?
weak spark or not firing, or firing @ the wrong time, the key sets the timing in relation to the magnets in the flywheel
 
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Old 05-09-09, 05:17 PM
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what do you mean firing at the wrong time?

would this create a popping noise?
 
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Old 05-09-09, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by longlegs View Post
what do you mean firing at the wrong time?
the key times the magnets as they pass by the coil, thus firing at the correct spot of piston travel

would this create a popping noise?
yes, if it is firing when a valve is open then you will heare the explosion in the combustion chamber(cylinder) because it is firing @ the wrong time and a valve is open, look at the flywheel key, if it is sheered off, or slightly it will be enough to cause this, also a mis adjusted valve will do the same, i am not sure if your engine has valve adjustment, some do, others you have to file the end of the valve stem
 
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Old 05-09-09, 10:19 PM
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A sheared flywheel key will not cause intermittent or weak spark. It will just cause incorrect timed spark.

Since changing the coil, did you check for spark?

If you had the flywheel off, and didn't tighten the bolt tight enough, or if you put oil/grease on the shaft where it fits, then the key probably is sheared.
 
  #26  
Old 05-10-09, 07:55 AM
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Since changing the coil, did you check for spark?
I don't have an extensive tool kit, if there is some special tool to check spark I do not own one. But I grounded the spark plug on the muffler and the spark was good.

or if you put oil/grease on the shaft where it fits, then the key probably is sheared.
I am guilty of this, during reassembly I put a little grease on the shaft. How exactly did this contribute to the key being sheared if indeed it is.?
 
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Old 05-11-09, 11:26 PM
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In light of the grease information, I pretty much guarantee the key is sheared. The key doesn't hold the flywheel in place or anything...it just makes you put it on in the correct position. The friction of the tapered wedge-fit of the crankshaft in the mating surface in the flywheel is what holds the flywheel when you tighten the bolt. The surfaces MUST be dry and clean or it can't grip. Imagine pushing your palms together and trying to shift them while pushing them together. Now imagine doing that with grease on them. You won't be able to keep them from sliding apart with the grease on them, but you can keep them together when they're clean and dry.
 
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Old 05-12-09, 07:27 AM
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so to fix I should remove the flywheel, clean off the grease and reinstall with a new key?????
 
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Old 05-13-09, 12:09 AM
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Yep, and torque the flywheel bolt properly to keep it from shearing again.
 
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Old 05-26-09, 06:25 AM
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ok so I got the flywheel off, cleaned up the grease and reassembled with new key. Started it up and it ran fine at idle. However, when I engage the blade the engine just dies. Can anyone int me in the right direction.
 
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Old 05-26-09, 08:01 AM
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It would be good to now know what make and model # mower you have.
Does the engine lug to a stop or quit as if turning the key off?
Can you let the clutch out without it dieing?
 
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Old 05-26-09, 10:02 AM
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the info on the mower is in the first post.

When I engage the blades it kinda take its time to die. If I disengage the blade, it will keep on running.
 
  #33  
Old 05-26-09, 05:46 PM
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ok I got the previous question sorted out. But, now new issue. So after I got it going again, I gave it a test run. The mower cut for about 20 feet and died. Now it won't even move. Turn key and nothing, no click, no spin ......nothing.

I am stuck !
 
  #34  
Old 05-26-09, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by longlegs View Post
the info on the mower is in the first post.

When I engage the blades it kinda take its time to die. If I disengage the blade, it will keep on running.
Your first post contains info for the engine not the mower, however you may have answered my main question.

Have you checked the oil, adjusted the carb, throttle, choke, run it in at all...etc. ????
 
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Old 05-27-09, 03:04 PM
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it is a murray body, 42 inch cut, 2 blades....blades engaged with a lever. Anyway the problem was something with the throttle but I got that taken care of. But now there is a new issue......while cutting the engine died and has refused to restart. Turn the key and NOTHING.....I need some help.
 
  #36  
Old 05-27-09, 11:16 PM
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I assume you checked the fuse again?
 
  #37  
Old 05-28-09, 06:43 AM
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yes...checked fuse and it did not need replacing. What is next?
 
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Old 05-28-09, 09:41 PM
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Check for power at the keyswitch battery terminal, and then at the solenoid spade terminal when turning the key to start with all safety switches engaged as they should be.
 
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