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Yard Machine idling up and down


DJM1972's Avatar
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05-09-09, 05:53 AM   #1  
Yard Machine idling up and down

Well Hi all I am new to this forum.
When I first moved into this apartment I din't have to mow the grass but then the landlord and his wife began to get sick. They asked me if i'd mow it if they would nock off 10 bucks of the rent. To make a long story short I said yes. But this is becoming a lot more difficult than I thought it would. Last summer I didn't have the gas cans labled right and my old lady put chain saw gas into this lawn mower. Then I pulled a bright stunt. Tipped on its side to clean the bottom and got oil all through the air cleaner and the exhaust. Put a new plug in and soked the air cleaner in gas. I had all these problems last sommer and now I'm haveing them again. I tore the carb off last summer thinking I might get lucky and accidentally fix something. But I haven't got that to happen yet. the next thing I'm gonna try is uploading a pic to this post. Is that possible?
The springs on the throttle body and linkage are all a mess. I need to see how they are suppose to be. If I can't upload a pic can someone reffer me to a pic?
I think this will be my 1st and last lauwn mower forum I post in because if this doesn't work I'm just gonna tell the landlord to come and get this darn thing
Thanks

Brand: Yard Machines 4 HP 22" cut
2-in-1 Mulcher / side discharge
Briggs & Stratton

Model # 11c-084c062

 
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cheese's Avatar
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05-10-09, 12:11 AM   #2  
I don't know of a pic, but that's a common engine, a neighbor or friend probably has the same engine on their push mower...peek at it...or look at one at the store or a mower shop.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-10-09, 05:32 AM   #3  
Well I tore the mower apart again since my last post. I'm starting to think it could be the gasket between the gas tank and the carb. Or it could also be a little O ring inside the intake.

Here are some pic's of it:



Pic of model & serial #:


 
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05-10-09, 05:39 AM   #4  
Posted By: cheese I don't know of a pic, but that's a common engine, a neighbor or friend probably has the same engine on their push mower...peek at it...or look at one at the store or a mower shop.
Ok I was just trying to cut some corners. Yeah I need to go down to doc's and poke around.

Thanks

I'm gonna get ready to take this thing apart again for the 3rd time. I'm gonna go buy a tarp and park the old ladies car behind the garage and set up some saw horses and get it off the ground.

 
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05-11-09, 11:35 PM   #5  
The pic of the springs is blurry at the springs and I can't tell if they are connected right or not. Any chance of a clearer pic of that particular area...maybe closer as well?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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05-13-09, 03:53 PM   #6  
Posted By: cheese The pic of the springs is blurry at the springs and I can't tell if they are connected right or not. Any chance of a clearer pic of that particular area...maybe closer as well?
I have a closer pic but as for clearer not sure let me try. I got the car out of the garage and I laid a piece of plywood down. Gettin ready to tear her apart again.

The last time I had this thing apart I remember there being 2 gaskets in-between the gas tank and the carb. 1 was paper and the other was rubber. I put the rubber one against the gas tank and the paper one against the carb. I figured since the gas tank was metal it would be better to put the rubber aginst the metal and the paper against the plastic carb.

I'm not so sure that its the springs, it may be but I'm leaning towards something else.
When I had the air cleaner off, no matter what position I held that throttle it didn't matter.

I still haven't went to the lawn mower shop yet either, this new roofing job I have is killing me plus going to a vocational school for welding.

hope this pic works better:


 
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05-13-09, 11:40 PM   #7  
The long thin spring is wrong. It looks like it needs to be replaced, because it is not in proper proportion anymore. The replacement spring should go from the loop at the carb linkage to the metal tab sticking up between the bigger spring and the engine on the right of the big spring in the last pic.

If replacing that spring doesn't help, you probably will have to replace the carb diaphragm.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-14-09, 04:52 AM   #8  
Posted By: cheese The long thin spring is wrong. It looks like it needs to be replaced, because it is not in proper proportion anymore. The replacement spring should go from the loop at the carb linkage to the metal tab sticking up between the bigger spring and the engine on the right of the big spring in the last pic.

If replacing that spring doesn't help, you probably will have to replace the carb diaphragm.
ok I'll give it a shot. I think I see what you are saying. Run the big spring from the linkage through that metal guide hole to the white fin.
Wait let me see if I can get a better pic of this, I still don't like this pick either. Maybe I'll delete some of these old one.

Now you say if its not the spring it could be the carb diaphram.
What is the diaphram?
Is that the little straw that goes down from the carb into the gas tank.

 
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05-14-09, 08:17 AM   #9  
First welcome to the forum;
Now, it looks as though you have a spring that doesn't belong and one missing(check the photo below), the model number posted is for the mower, not the engine. The engine model, type and code which you will need to get the proper springs is on the metal flywheel shroud just above the spark plug, you will need to tilt the mower or remove the plastic cover to see them, the diaphram kit you need is 795083 or old 495770 I will cover it's installation below the picture. Have a good one. Geo


You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts.
Here we go;
Here we go;
Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Check the intake tube to see if the O ring seal and plastic retainer are still on the intake tube, if so remove them and re-install them into the carb. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble) with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem. Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo

 
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05-14-09, 09:01 PM   #10  
Awesome Geo...a pic says a thousand words...


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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05-15-09, 04:35 AM   #11  
Thanks a lot for the pic I'm in the middle of trying to get some new springs for it. Whats the 1st thing I did when I seen these pics I went out and started messing around with them and bent them all to heck LOL!

 
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05-15-09, 09:47 AM   #12  
DJM1972;
You will need the engine model, type and code to get the "correct" springs for the engine. If you will notice the big spring in the pic above is yellow on the left end, for whatever reason B&S used different springs on different types and codes for what appear to be the same engine, they have a white, yellow, blue and I think red, maybe it has to do with hp. Have a good one. Geo

 
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05-15-09, 02:34 PM   #13  
The numbers on those enignes should be at the front, top. You may have to tip it up to see it, as it is somewhat hidden by the plastic cowling.

 
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05-16-09, 02:37 PM   #14  
Well I got all the serial #'s round up and went and bought the springs and that didn't help. So I went back out and bought the diaphram and a new air cleaner. I went to put on the diaphram and noticed that the intake o-ring and plastic retainer wasn't even installed. Probably from when I took it apart the last 2 or 3 times. I cleaned it out and put it back together and it ran a heck of a lot better. Its still idleing up and down but I'm am sure I can put that diaphram in and everything will be alright.

Thanks geogrub your instructions are why I check that more thoughlly

 
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05-16-09, 07:37 PM   #15  
Post back the results after you install the diaphram kit, then we can celebrate, "if it runs". Have a good one. Geo

 
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06-21-10, 08:17 PM   #16  
How did everything turn out?

I have the same identical problem with erratic idle. I've pretty much taken everything apart but cannot ID the parts mentioned in this thread.

Perhaps one of you may be able to help me based on the info below...

My Model # is: 11A-034E729 (2006)
Model etched on cover is: 10H902
Type: 0285 E1
Code: 05120251

Posted By: DJM1972 Well I got all the serial #'s round up and went and bought the springs and that didn't help. So I went back out and bought the diaphram and a new air cleaner. I went to put on the diaphram and noticed that the intake o-ring and plastic retainer wasn't even installed. Probably from when I took it apart the last 2 or 3 times. I cleaned it out and put it back together and it ran a heck of a lot better. Its still idleing up and down but I'm am sure I can put that diaphram in and everything will be alright.

Thanks geogrub your instructions are why I check that more thoughlly

 
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06-22-10, 05:46 AM   #17  
Mine ended up being the rubber intake o-ring. About the size of a nickel. But puting the diaphram in made it run perfect. The springs didn't seem to matter much just use your old ones.
Is it idleing up and down to where it nearly stalls?
Or idling up and down fast

The 1st one means its your o-ring

If its the 2nd replace your diaphram.

 
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06-22-10, 06:52 PM   #18  
Posted By: ynot411 How did everything turn out?

I have the same identical problem with erratic idle. I've pretty much taken everything apart but cannot ID the parts mentioned in this thread.

Perhaps one of you may be able to help me based on the info below...

My Model # is: 11A-034E729 (2006)
Model etched on cover is: 10H902
Type: 0285 E1
Code: 05120251
MTD is misleading because they put the model number of the mower right about the 4.0 quattro (engine) name). Engine model is the 10h902. You can download ipl at briggsandsratton.com

 
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06-22-10, 07:22 PM   #19  
Posted By: ynot411 How did everything turn out?

I have the same identical problem with erratic idle. I've pretty much taken everything apart but cannot ID the parts mentioned in this thread.

Perhaps one of you may be able to help me based on the info below...

My Model # is: 11A-034E729 (2006)
Model etched on cover is: 10H902
Type: 0285 E1
Code: 05120251

Go to post #9 and follow the instructions and you will be good to go. Have a good one. Geo

 
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