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kohler k301aqs problems


tracy t's Avatar
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05-09-09, 02:45 PM   #1  
kohler k301aqs problems

hello all, i am brand new here, i do belong to some other sites like this one, but it is mostly jeep related, ok now on to the problem, i have a john deere 214 lawn tractor actually i have 2, and one of them is giving me a fit, it runs just fine untill it gets hot and you put it under a heavy load, it will get rather violent, the whole motor will start bucking and jumping, relive the load and it gets worse, and will eventually die, but if you throttle it down it will recover, let it idle for a few minutes and its good to go, this mower has been a project since i got it, i just recentaly put the 12hp in it, i had a 10hp k241 in it but it was too much of a load for the 10hp, it would handel it but i didnt want to wear the 10 hp out, here is a list of what i have done, keep in mind it ran fine with the 10hp, it has a new carb, new fuel pump, new rings, new rod, new plug, new fuel line all the way to the tank, i set the points with a timing light, i have switched the condenser out just to rule it out, valves set to spec. sorry for the long post, but i figure that will rule alot of things out that need not be discussed, have also ran it with the gas cap off, makes no change in it, and it has more than enough fuel going to it, next thing will be the coil and the points, i have 2 of these engines, the other runs great, so if i pull the coil off of it to test with it is not a problem, thanks in advance

 
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05-09-09, 06:44 PM   #2  
When you say idle it for a while and it's good to go, are you saying it will run with no problems from that point on or does it start acting up again? If the problem condition just runs in a circle, then swap the coil. It really sounds more fuel flow related, but you have changed the carb and fuel pump.

 
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05-09-09, 06:53 PM   #3  
yes you can idel it for less than a minute, and it will mow fine again untill you put it in a hard strain, does it mostly when hot, and it does get violent, enough so that i am affraid it may break the motor mounts

 
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05-09-09, 07:15 PM   #4  
The coil shouldn't cause that in a loading situation. What does your point gap measure? I know you set it with a timing light, but what's the gap on it?

I'm thinking it may be preignition. If it was fuel delivery it should just bog down and die. You really wouldn't have any motor mount tearing going on.

You might pull the plug and see if it has any blisters on the porcelain.

 
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05-09-09, 07:42 PM   #5  
i started out @.020" i have not checked it since setting it with a timing light, i can tell you that it runs much better than it did before i set it with the timing light, so that seemed to help the engine, as far as the plug goes it appears to be running just right, it is running clean with just a little greyish color on the tip, my other engine the plug has some minor suit on it, i am starting to wonder if it is running lean myself, but if i open up the main jet any more it starts to sputter, it does have a wrist pin knock, but i dont see where that would cause the symptoms i am getting

 
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05-09-09, 10:17 PM   #6  
I second the motion to try a coil. Breaking down coils can possibly allow erratic spark, causing bucking, especially in high heat.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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05-10-09, 06:05 AM   #7  
Posted By: cheese I second the motion to try a coil. Breaking down coils can possibly allow erratic spark, causing bucking, especially in high heat.
will swap them out and get back with you all, i have not been replacing parts at random either, like i said it has been a "project" since i got it and at this point has turned into a pain in the back side, and at its age a set of points wouldnt hurt i like these old K series engines, if they are took care of the last, just tring to bring this old bird back to life, and have gotten stumped

 
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05-10-09, 07:38 AM   #8  
Hopefully the coil swap will take care of it. On a side note the knock you're hearing may be detonation rather than a wrist pin.

From the .020 gap which way did you go when you set it with the timing light = wider or smaller?

 
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05-10-09, 01:18 PM   #9  
Posted By: marbobj Hopefully the coil swap will take care of it. On a side note the knock you're hearing may be detonation rather than a wrist pin.

From the .020 gap which way did you go when you set it with the timing light = wider or smaller?
smaller, sorry for not getting back with you quicker, i have set them @.018 and i am getting ready to change the coil, and see what happens, with the points set with a timing light they were @ .012, there is something screwy with the whole thing by the points being set that close to get it to time

 
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05-10-09, 03:10 PM   #10  
turns out it was a bad coil, put the timing light on it with the points set @ .018" and it was spot on with the other coil have been mowing heavy grass for well over an hour with no trouble, had to go over some of it twice but i was pushing the mower to its limits to see if this had fixed it, and i got what i wanted, a kohler K series that just wont quit just gotta love old ironBeer 4U2

 
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05-11-09, 11:04 PM   #11  
Glad you got it, and thanks for the update!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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