shindaiwa 25 ignition

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  #1  
Old 05-14-09, 08:17 PM
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shindaiwa 25 ignition

Anyone have info on the ignition system in a shindaiwa 25 trimmer? I have one I got in a deal where I purchased several items from someone. This belonged to a guy who had a yard service many years ago. It was garage kept, and looks like brand new...but it's probably 20 years old or so. Anyway, I put some gas in it and it fired up nicely! I shut it off, and that was the last of it. It won't fire (no spark). I figured the kill switch was bad, so I disconnected it...still nothing. I pulled the fan housing off to see the coil and wiring, and all is well...no pinched wires. The thing is, this has what appears to be an igniter of some sort connected to the system, and I don't have any literature or information of any kind about it, what it is, or how to determine if the coil is bad, or the "igniter?" is bad, or what. This thing is in such good condition I would spend a little on it to get it running again if I can figure out how to troubleshoot the ignition.

Thanks in advance!
Cheese
 
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Old 05-15-09, 07:02 AM
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We have a couple of dealers for those things around here in Iowa. People say they like the chainsaws, but I've never had my hands on one. I'll check with the local dealer and see what I can come up with on the ignition.

I believe from what you're describing is an electronic ignition with the capacitor box outside the module. Everything would work about the same as an ignition module, but with two separate components. You see about the same thing on some of the older foreign automotive setups like Toyota. Those get a little more complicated with the four and six cylinders = signal rotor, control module (igniter), primary coil, and finally the computer. Being battery fed there's no mag armature. On those you have two wires ( + & -) coming over from the igniter to the coil.

In checking the igniter, repair manuals specifically say try a known good one and if it starts leave it in, if not put the old one back in (paraphrasing, but I really like that part). It's typical CDI stuff = nobody knows how to check it.
 
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Old 05-15-09, 07:33 AM
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I had a shindaiwa hedge trimmer a couple of months back with no spark. It had the same setup. The guy claimed it was a simple carb problem and did not want to put anything into it but it had no spark and I could not find a specific test for the igniter either. I did check the coil and it had acceptable resistance so I would have gone with the igniter, but was not willing to gamble on my own dime. I looked up a dealer and sent him there so it could be confirmed...have not heard back from him so at least his chain saws must still be going

I have seen a test for these igniters in the John Deere service manuals for the 160,170 series. My manuals are on CD in PDF so its a pain to find the procedure as it is buried, but if you don't have a manual to access I could dig it up and give you the steps.
Not sure it would confirm good or bad on this one but that is where I would have gone.
 
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Old 05-15-09, 11:55 PM
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You know, I thought about connecting a Kawasaki/deere igniter to it to see if it would work. I imagine the specs are nearly the same.

I know what you mean about "replace with a known good unit" as a means of diagnosis. I have a real issue with that, because I like to be able to test a component and prove it is bad, not have to buy a new one to check and see. If that's what I have to do, I may junk it unless I can get the part very reasonably. I could ohm the coil and see if it's shorted or open. I suppose if it seems to be ok I could hunt down an igniter. I haven't searched in depth yet, but during my brief search, it appears to be an uncommon part. Maybe I need to find a dealer and price one up. Seems like one of the tractor dealers on the other side of town also deals with shindaiwa parts. I'd rather pick one up on ebay, but no luck yet.

Thanks for the input!
Cheese
 
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Old 05-16-09, 08:44 AM
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I think it would be worth putting it to the same test as deere calls for theirs...I might dig up the steps just for a refresher, may have some time during the race

I still have the part numbers for the coil and "unit assy" which is what they called it for the HT-20 if they would be of any help. I priced them at 55 and 63 bucks respectively.
 
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Old 05-16-09, 10:09 AM
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Fixit ;

If it isn't too much trouble, could you post those igniter test steps. I would really like how to test those things. It may be something I could use in other applications.
 
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Old 05-16-09, 01:58 PM
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Ok I found it however I can't copy from the silly thing to post so....
This manual cover 135 to 185 lawn tractors:

Group 10 Electrical System Diagnosis
Step 2P: Ignition Ground Circuit Test
Key switch OFF.
Separate 3-pin engine
Remove connector from ignitor.
Check for continuity of white wire at connectors

CONTINUITY: Replace ignitor and repeat 2n. Circuit Test
If still no spark: GO TO 2q

NO CONTINUITY: Repair or replace white wire from ignitor to
3-pin connector.

___________________

Step 2q is testing the coil airgap and on to test the coil.

Beer 4U2
 
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Old 05-16-09, 04:20 PM
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Just some other thoughts that have crossed my mind since last posting,

I am not confident with this test as a conclusive one. I am not sure that there is still the assumption that the replaced ignitor is good or that you have determined the original as bad, so it may just well be "replace with a known good one" however that is the only documentation I have found for testing and or even mention of it.
I have not worked on very many deere/Kawa to have actually tested this, 3 or 4 maybe, but I do know I have not replaced a coil.
 
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Old 05-16-09, 07:36 PM
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Yeah, I actually keep a good kawasaki igniter in my toolbox to use as a diagnostic tool. I've only had 2 or 3 bad kawasaki coils ever if I remember right. The problem is usually the igniter.

I don't think I want to spend 50-60 bucks on the trimmer. I probably can't sell it for much more than $100-$125 just because of it's age. I don't want it for personal use because I already have a lighter, newer Echo that I like using. I'll chew on it for a while and see. I may hold out for a used ignition on ebay or something...or check the junk piles of some of the other small engine shops in town.
 
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Old 05-17-09, 04:52 AM
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Thanks for the information Fixit. (Didn't mean to hijack your thread, Cheese).

I don't know how much stuff I've checked with an ohm meter and it showed good or bad and it turned out to be the other. It sounds odd to just replace the part to check it, but I'm not sure that isn't the best way to do it if you have the extra parts.
 
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