poulan weedeater xt260
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poulan weedeater xt260
Hello
I have this weedeater with a weber wt type carb ( http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...s/WTseries.pdf ).
I can't get it to run right anymore, here are some symptoms please advise:
On starting: primer does purge air from carb. On open choke it usually runs for a few seconds or so on the first or second pull (I believe this is normal).
I then go to start it at half choke with the throttle open per instructions. The engine will run for a while, sometimes up to half a minute sometimes a few seconds, and then die.
If I switch to full choke after getting the engine running at half choke it will run for up to 1/2 minute and then die.
If I feel the weedeater starting to die at half choke and I switch it to full choke it will run for a bit longer then die out.
All of the above is with the throttle open. Sometimes I can release the throttle and the weedeater will idle, other times it just dies. If I open the throttle after having gotten it to idle the weedeater always dies.
The weedeater seemed to idle very fast before it had problems, and the early symptoms were that i could weedeat without having to use the throttle, I had to be careful if I did squeeze the throttle because that would typically kill it, although sometimes it would speed up as it was supposed to.
I have cleaned the carb, replaced all everything in there with the stuff from the carb kit and checked the spark arrestor/muffler for clogging. I have modified the adjustment screws so that I can turn them, and I can't get it to run long enough to tell any difference between the screw positions.
I would appreciate any suggestions, thanks in advance.
I have this weedeater with a weber wt type carb ( http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...s/WTseries.pdf ).
I can't get it to run right anymore, here are some symptoms please advise:
On starting: primer does purge air from carb. On open choke it usually runs for a few seconds or so on the first or second pull (I believe this is normal).
I then go to start it at half choke with the throttle open per instructions. The engine will run for a while, sometimes up to half a minute sometimes a few seconds, and then die.
If I switch to full choke after getting the engine running at half choke it will run for up to 1/2 minute and then die.
If I feel the weedeater starting to die at half choke and I switch it to full choke it will run for a bit longer then die out.
All of the above is with the throttle open. Sometimes I can release the throttle and the weedeater will idle, other times it just dies. If I open the throttle after having gotten it to idle the weedeater always dies.
The weedeater seemed to idle very fast before it had problems, and the early symptoms were that i could weedeat without having to use the throttle, I had to be careful if I did squeeze the throttle because that would typically kill it, although sometimes it would speed up as it was supposed to.
I have cleaned the carb, replaced all everything in there with the stuff from the carb kit and checked the spark arrestor/muffler for clogging. I have modified the adjustment screws so that I can turn them, and I can't get it to run long enough to tell any difference between the screw positions.
I would appreciate any suggestions, thanks in advance.
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Chances are likely
Chances are Likey that ur gasline in the gastank has
dissolved. the gasline shouldnt stop at the edge of ur tank it should go down in the gas to suck it up.
You can get a replacement line (24 inches of it)for like $3 a little messy to get gas on u but i just replaced on mine and works fine now.
dissolved. the gasline shouldnt stop at the edge of ur tank it should go down in the gas to suck it up.
You can get a replacement line (24 inches of it)for like $3 a little messy to get gas on u but i just replaced on mine and works fine now.
#3
It could be a crack or pinhole in the fuel line as suggested. That's what it sounds like, or the carb is clogged, diaphragms are stiff, or a hole in the primer bulb. When you prime it, does fuel pump through the primer and back into the tank?
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How easily should the fuel come through the input line? Should there be negligable resistance or a some due to the filter? Is it safe to pull the in tank filter off to make sure it isn't the cause for testing? I don't want to clog the internal filter if possible.
I soaked the carb in cleaner and blew it all out with air @100 psi or so. It was not dirty at all to begin with and all passages I can physically blow through seem clear.
What would a leak between the carb and the intake port cause? I had to reuse that gasket as a replacement wasn't supplied.
Thanks for the help so far, I will report the results tomorrow.
#5
An air leak between the carb and intake can cause similar symptoms.
You can remove the filter from the line to test, you can blow through the filter to see if it's stopped up.
You can remove the filter from the line to test, you can blow through the filter to see if it's stopped up.
#6
If the Weedeater is less than a year old, Would it not still be under a warranty?? Why am I thinking these things have a 2 year warranty on them?? Check it out, you may get lucky with that?? Good Luck, Roger
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Mine is doing the exact same thing Ozerozer
Mine is doing the exact same thing Ozerozer. I was going to post a thread, but you beat me to it. Mine never did continue to run reliably. I've also had mine for less than one year. I'm hoping to return this thing. It is very frustrating. Happy Spring yard maintenance to all.
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weedeater runs at half choke
Removed muffler and scrubbed the flame arrestor screen with gas and wire brush. The gas line was split where it plugged onto the carb., so I cut the bad end off (I had to cut a 45° on the end that goes into the gas tank. I used a flat head screwdriver to push back into the smaller hole, worked great)!
The primer bulb was badly split, so I took a hot glue gun and smeared glue over the bulb (I removed the bulb to avoid glue inside). Crazy glue would probably work.
Zero dollars to fix, it now cranks on the first pull!! I have ordered a new primer bulb, spark plug, trimmer line housing and carbeurator gasket from repairclinic.com for $20.00 total. I may not need those items, but I'll replace them later (I doubt the glue on the primer will hold forever).
The primer bulb was badly split, so I took a hot glue gun and smeared glue over the bulb (I removed the bulb to avoid glue inside). Crazy glue would probably work.
Zero dollars to fix, it now cranks on the first pull!! I have ordered a new primer bulb, spark plug, trimmer line housing and carbeurator gasket from repairclinic.com for $20.00 total. I may not need those items, but I'll replace them later (I doubt the glue on the primer will hold forever).
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So the "glue on the prime bulb" lasted one running. I installed the parts listed in my previous post, and the homelite zip start quickly starts. I also noticed that the line feeds much better after using the new trimmer line housing.
I was one of those that bought new when the units stopped working correctly. With all the expert help online, that's a thing of the past...
I was one of those that bought new when the units stopped working correctly. With all the expert help online, that's a thing of the past...