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Pressure Washer still won't start


Home wrecker's Avatar
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06-11-09, 01:33 PM   #1  
Pressure Washer still won't start

I've done everything but put this thing to the curb. Here are the model and engine numbers again. Model 580.752 The number on the muffler plate are 129602-0113-E1-040224FB

I pulled the head and cleaned the piston head and valves. I didn't lap them because them seem to seat just fine once I got the carbon scraped off them.
I've put a new coil on it, tried 3 different NEW plugs. Adjusted the valves at 6 and 10. There is little room for adjusting these tappets. The nut on the end of the stud has a bottom to it. You can only adjust it so far then it hits bottom. The nut on the stud holding the tappet to the head is already adjusted all the way out to the end of the threads. I actually had to put a little loc-tite in the nut on the tappet end because the thing was letting the tappet slip off the rod. I didn't realize the thing had a bottom on the nut and reamed it a little to tight.
The plug is gapped at 20, right where the owners manual says it should be. Too bad the people who write these owners manuals don't see any reason to include valve settings or pounds of torque on anything.

I have spark, I've tried a spoon of gas in the carb, nothing. I even gave it a shot of starter fluid down the plug hole. The best I get is a pop back through the muffler. It's like it's just on the verge of starting but won't. I've yanked my arm right out of the socket

What am I doing wrong???
Lowe's has a nice one on sale this week for $300. I hate to admit defeat, but I've got to get this house washed. I've got too much stuff to do around the yard and can't devote too much more time on this thing. It's been 5 days now. Please, can anybody figure this thing out???

 
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cheese's Avatar
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06-12-09, 01:40 AM   #2  
I'm not quite sure what you're describing with the valves. The rocker arm nuts should be very adjustable. Are you adjusting them with the engine at TDC?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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06-12-09, 03:51 AM   #3  
Maybe this will help:

How are the valves properly serviced?

 
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06-13-09, 07:28 AM   #4  
Thanks for that link, I read that and a couple of the other question sections.

Here comes a really dumb question, READY???
How do I determine what series my engine is??? I see all these charts referring to a series number, not and engine number. Is the series relates to the model# or is it the serial #? I thought the serial # related to the whole machine, not just the engine. In this case also covering the pump.

Cheese: Maybe I'm doing this wrong, actually more than just maybe. I loosened the stud itself(the nut against the head), then I loosened the nut on the tappet. What I meant before is the nut on the tappet end does not allow the stud to pass all the way through the nut. It has a stop inside the nut that prevents it from being tightened beyond a certain point. I'm not getting these things adjusted right. Again B&S contradict themselves. In the link Airman gave me it said Intake between 2 & 4 Exhaust between 5 & 7. I set it at 3 and 6. When I look at one of those articles on the Briggs site, one suggest a much bigger clearance.

 
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06-13-09, 08:16 PM   #5  
In you're last post, some suggestions were to check the kill system as you had a poor spark and to check the carb. You said it had a lot of rust on the flywheel, & was stiff to turn. I wonder what the inside of the carb/fuel tank is like for water, etc?? Did you check any of the other suggestions??? It's a 129000 series engine.

 
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06-13-09, 08:35 PM   #6  
You don't loosen the stud. You loosen the nut on the end of the stud that holds the rocker arm on. The valve clearance is adjusted with this nut. The set screw on the inside of it is also part of the adjustment. You have to set it with the nut, then tighten the set screw to lock your setting in place.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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06-14-09, 07:47 AM   #7  
hopkinsr2: I thought about water in the tank the minute I saw the flywheel. I had already put fresh gas in it but I dumped that back out think I had fouled the filter. There is no filter, not on the line nor inside the tank I also took the carb all apart and cleaner all parts and reinstalled it. I tried starting it with the kill wire disconnected and connected, same reaction on both. Although it does have a stronger spark now.

Cheese: BLESS YOUR HEART!!!. I've never seen a set up like that, I didn't realize that was a set screw in there. I'm used to the plain nut and bolt system like on the bigger motors.

Now I have an incredibly dumb question, on this engine which is the intake valve and which is the exhaust? I realize they are labeled but are they labeled correctly? I thought the exhaust valve was always closest to the the exhaust manifold?? Are these pictures labeled backward, or am I wrong??

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o..._engine-si.jpg

Also is there some standard setting for the valve clearances or are they different? I talked to a repair mechanic on a different forum and he says they are both the same, between .004/.006. Not one manual I have says they are the same? Still waiting for some kind of reply from B&S mechanic

I think the problem is I have the clearances are set way wrong and it's not pulling any gas into the combustion chamber, so there's no way it will start. I will readjust them using that set screw though.

GOD Bless This Forum and ALL the People like you who are willing to help nitwits like me.

 
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06-14-09, 08:24 PM   #8  
Looks like it's labelled right to me. Sometimes the ports in the heads go in at an angle to the valve, so you can't always judge the valve by what is closest to it.

Nitwits? Nah, just folks who need info!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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06-15-09, 12:20 PM   #9  
Cheese;
Thanks, I guess my settings are backward cause I thought the top was the exhaust
Won't get a chance to test that until next weekend, got a real busy week ahead. I will let you know how it goes though and thanks again.

 
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06-15-09, 12:33 PM   #10  
its been my understanding that the intake valve is always the bigger of the two valves. p.s. i just looked at b&s site and it says there that my engine which is a 2 cyl. are both the same too but everything i've read said to adj. them different clearences. i think it was .003-.006 and .007-.009 so i did mine .005 and .008

 
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06-15-09, 02:15 PM   #11  
BUCKSEIGHT:
I set mine right in the middle too, but in the wrong order. I should have marked the bigger valve when I had the head off, unfortunately once it's it's back in place (the head) there is no way of telling. What is it they say about hind-sight? One was supposed to have a thicker spring but mine are both the same thickness.

 
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06-15-09, 04:29 PM   #12  
yea thats the way on m,ine too but on mine i noticed that the intake valve is by the carb intake and the exhaust is by the exhaust

 
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