Kohler/Kawasaki no spark

Reply

  #1  
Old 06-12-09, 06:04 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: MD
Posts: 4
Kohler/Kawasaki no spark

I have a John Deere LT155, someone did an engine swap (I bought it this way) and has been running fine.
Now however there is no spark... ran fine, went in the house for a drink, come back out, no start. It cranks but has no spark.

The wiring on this looks like a mess (because of the engine swap).

I would like to completely rewire it. Where could I find (even buy) a wiring diagram for this Kohler (Kawasaki) 14HP FC420V-AS10.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 06-12-09, 06:38 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Iowa!!!!!
Posts: 3,659
For the wiring diagram, I can't help you, but there are some real pros here that can, I'm sure.

For the no spark, though, you can isolate it by disconnecting the kill wire at the ignition module (coil at the end of the plug wire). If you have spark and a running engine, the problem can be in one of the safety switches or the ignition switch. A lot of times it's the seat switch or the operator present.

If you have no spark, think in terms of a bad module.

This should get you started.
 
  #3  
Old 06-13-09, 03:10 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: MD
Posts: 4
Thans very much,
Like I said, the wiring looks like a mess.
First, the seat switch has been bypassed, so no worries there.
It has a circuit board on the ignition switch, (with 2 fuses), fuses are good. Those wires (harness) go to a (somewhat) large box that says "regulator". Is that the "module" you speak of?

The coil wire comes from the spark plug and goes "inside" the engine "covers".
Are you saying that I need to remove the engine covers to access this kill wire?



Originally Posted by marbobj View Post
For the wiring diagram, I can't help you, but there are some real pros here that can, I'm sure.

For the no spark, though, you can isolate it by disconnecting the kill wire at the ignition module (coil at the end of the plug wire). If you have spark and a running engine, the problem can be in one of the safety switches or the ignition switch. A lot of times it's the seat switch or the operator present.

If you have no spark, think in terms of a bad module.

This should get you started.
 
  #4  
Old 06-13-09, 05:53 AM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Iowa!!!!!
Posts: 3,659
The regulator fuse is for the the voltage regulator/rectifier circuit coming from the charging system going to the battery.

The engine cover would have to be removed to access the module. Just follow the spark plug wire back to it. From there there should be one small wire (kill wire) and the high tension lead for the spark plug.
 
  #5  
Old 06-14-09, 04:07 AM
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Albans, Herts, UK
Posts: 95
I have just rewired a Murray 10/30, and it is fairly straight forward.

There are three wires emerging from the engine.
1. HT Lead
2. Kill
3. Charger

The kill needs to be split into two. One goes through the kill button. The other goes first to the clutch switch, then on to the seat switch. You may have to play around a bit to find out the exact order (multimeter essential).

The charger goes through the regulator onto the battery.

From the battery you have a wire going to the light switch, then onto the light.

You have a wire going from the battery to the start button, then on to the switching post on the solenoid. You have a large cable from the battery to one side of the solenoid, then a large cable from the other side to the starter.
 

Last edited by 07bloomfieldb; 06-14-09 at 04:08 AM. Reason: Removed diagram that confised more than helped
  #6  
Old 06-14-09, 06:36 AM
31YTech's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,263
You can't disconnect the kill wire at the coil on this engine, It has a igniter connected to the coil. The kill wire must be disconnected after the igniter for proper spark testing.

Below is a basic FC420 wire diagram;





If you still have no spark disconnecting this kill wire, Further test procedures will be required.


Good Luck
 
  #7  
Old 06-27-09, 02:17 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: MD
Posts: 4
I REALLY appreciate your help:

I was able to disconnect it at the coil: no spark.
I disconnected it like you said in the image (which to me would be "before" the ignitor): no spark.
I replaced the ignitor: no spark.

Some tests:
The white lead going to the ignitor is grounded ONLY with the key off. UN-grounded with the key on and while cranking.

The 2 magneto leads "D", each show 12V with the key on and about 8V while cranking (without a spark plug in the engine). Neither one is grounded like it shows in the image????

I have 12V at "L" fuel cut-off???

Obviously the starter leads are good.

Please help further...my grass is getting tall.



Oh, a friend has a JD LX172 with the exact same wiring. And I understand a LX176 is the same too. (If this helps any)
 
  #8  
Old 06-27-09, 09:18 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,575
If the wire from the coil to the igniter is intact, the air gap is correct between the coil and flywheel, and the kill wire is unplugged without removing the igniter from the circuit, and you still have no spark, you have either a bad plug, bad coil, or bad igniter...or rarely but possibly a shorted wire between the coil and igniter.
 
  #9  
Old 06-28-09, 05:15 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: MD
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by cheese View Post
If the wire from the coil to the igniter is intact.
OK, got it.
I really got confused with this "kill wire", I got the message to remove it at the coil, even the directions for the new ignitor led to this, which did not make sense to me. "what's the point of having the ignitor if it doesn't hook up to the coil".

Anywho, I rewired it WITH the coil...start and runs great.

Thanks VERY much for all your help. Truly appreciate it.
 
  #10  
Old 06-28-09, 11:19 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,575
Glad you got it figured out!
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:27 AM.