Chain Saw cuts poorly
#1
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Chain Saw cuts poorly
I replaced my chain with a new one. The tension is properly set. I cut through 2 trees and now the saw cuts poorly. I get great chips for the first 1" to 2"s of my cut and then the saw stops cutting. The saw starts and runs nicely.
What could be the problem with the cutting? It is the second new chain I've tried?
What could be the problem with the cutting? It is the second new chain I've tried?
Last edited by vizza; 07-01-09 at 09:46 AM. Reason: wrong title
#2
Check the guide bar... As the chains wear, so do the bars & they kinda mushroom out on the sides... Clean this off with a grinder so the bar doesen't have any metal sticking out to catch the wood in the cut... Oregon makes chains & has excellent tips on saw chain & bar sharpening & troubleshooting..... Roger
#3
Remove the clutch cover and make sure nothing is tangled in the drive sprocket.
What kind of saw is it?
Could be a slipping clutch, make sure it's not all oiled up.
Are you cutting dirty wood, is there any soil or debris on the bark?
What chain are you using, model and type?
What kind of saw is it?
Could be a slipping clutch, make sure it's not all oiled up.
Are you cutting dirty wood, is there any soil or debris on the bark?
What chain are you using, model and type?
#4
are you sure you got the correct gauge chain ?
the .325 pitch chain come in three gauges and they will all fit on a bar for the larger gauge but not cut well.
need a little more info. check the bar for chain size or the original chain if you have it. also, if you can flip the bar and try it.
the .325 pitch chain come in three gauges and they will all fit on a bar for the larger gauge but not cut well.
need a little more info. check the bar for chain size or the original chain if you have it. also, if you can flip the bar and try it.
#5
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The problem is likely what Roger is talking about. The mushroomed part of the bar catches on the side of the cut and the chain teeth can't penetrate any farther into the cut.
I usually use a chainsaw file. Take off the chain and file from the chain side of the bar down toward the center of the bar. Make sweeping passes, front to rear, on the bar rather than filing in one place on the bar. That will take off the mushroomed part evenly.
I usually use a chainsaw file. Take off the chain and file from the chain side of the bar down toward the center of the bar. Make sweeping passes, front to rear, on the bar rather than filing in one place on the bar. That will take off the mushroomed part evenly.
#6
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McCulloch PowerMAC
The chainsaw model is: McCulloch PowerMAC PM605AV-20.
I brought the saw into a shop and they indicated that the bar looks fine. They also indicated that if the clutch were slipping, the chain would stop/slow down.
They gave no answers to the problem.
I got the original chain sharpened and used it. The same problem occured. I did notice that the chainsaw oil was not decreasing at the rate that the gas was; that is, the chain oil was decreasing much slower. The shop said that I should see a line of oil displaced on my cut line if it were working properly. I tried to clean out the oil hole from behind the bar.
Could this be causing the problem - lack of chain oil?
The chain seems to be rotating (no jamming) fine. I cannot find a shop that is willing to work on this problem - apparently McCulloch parts are rare. Before I give up on this saw or spend too much on resolving the problem - I'D GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY ASSISTANCE. As you can tell, I am not an expert on saws or small motors.
greatly appreciated
I brought the saw into a shop and they indicated that the bar looks fine. They also indicated that if the clutch were slipping, the chain would stop/slow down.
They gave no answers to the problem.
I got the original chain sharpened and used it. The same problem occured. I did notice that the chainsaw oil was not decreasing at the rate that the gas was; that is, the chain oil was decreasing much slower. The shop said that I should see a line of oil displaced on my cut line if it were working properly. I tried to clean out the oil hole from behind the bar.
Could this be causing the problem - lack of chain oil?
The chain seems to be rotating (no jamming) fine. I cannot find a shop that is willing to work on this problem - apparently McCulloch parts are rare. Before I give up on this saw or spend too much on resolving the problem - I'D GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY ASSISTANCE. As you can tell, I am not an expert on saws or small motors.
greatly appreciated
#7
Try this link... It has troubleshooting for the bar & chain..Oregon® Maintenance and Safety Manual: Saw Chain, Guide Bar, and Drive Sprocket The oil will go down @ a rate of about 1/2 of the fuel... If you point the end of the bar @ something & run the saw @ high speed, that's when you will see a trace of oil.... If it's been sharpened,, make sure the rakers (or guards) ahead of the cutters aren't too high.... Roger
#8
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If you're sure the bar is in good shape and the chain is spinning freely, but not cutting try reducing the length of the cut, especially in the larger trees.
As you start cutting, the side of the tree is naturally curved, so the length of the cut is relatively short. As you progress into the tree the length of the cut becomes greater.
You should have made your initial cut low on the tree on the side you want the tree to fall to. On the higher cut, on the opposite side, work from one end of the cut to the other, in effect making three cuts, instead of one long one.
If you have a small saw it'll be a lot easier on the saw. The problem may be you aren't keeping the bar in the cut perfectly straight.
As you start cutting, the side of the tree is naturally curved, so the length of the cut is relatively short. As you progress into the tree the length of the cut becomes greater.
You should have made your initial cut low on the tree on the side you want the tree to fall to. On the higher cut, on the opposite side, work from one end of the cut to the other, in effect making three cuts, instead of one long one.
If you have a small saw it'll be a lot easier on the saw. The problem may be you aren't keeping the bar in the cut perfectly straight.
#10
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Sorry to jump in here... but YES ! cheese
my chainsaw dose exactly that... cut in at a curve ?
I have the same problem as the orig poster... on larger logs 3" plus, my chainsaw chews thru nicely until about half way then it just sits there spinning biting into nothing unless I put alot of down pressure, then it barely cuts anymore.
I bought a second chain.. no difference. I'm thinking the bar. !?
New/cheap chainsaw I bought last year. 14" poulin
Cheers
Wayne
my chainsaw dose exactly that... cut in at a curve ?
I have the same problem as the orig poster... on larger logs 3" plus, my chainsaw chews thru nicely until about half way then it just sits there spinning biting into nothing unless I put alot of down pressure, then it barely cuts anymore.
I bought a second chain.. no difference. I'm thinking the bar. !?
New/cheap chainsaw I bought last year. 14" poulin
Cheers
Wayne
#11
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Woscarr = yes the bar is messed up. You have one side of the bar worn down more that the other. You can straighten that out with a grinder or a belt sander.
Once you get it squared up you need to flush all the grinding/sanding grit out of it with gasoline or carb cleaner. Then oil it.
Once you get it squared up you need to flush all the grinding/sanding grit out of it with gasoline or carb cleaner. Then oil it.
#12
Since you said it is a new chain, I would agree that the bar is at fault. If the chain is not brand-new and unused, then I'd say the chain has dulled or is improperly sharpened on one side, allowing the other side to cut faster and pull into the cut in a curve. This causes the bar to hit in the curve and you can't push it through the cut.